661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

[bwalker]

Only part of the equation. The wood functions as 2 things. The fulcrum and the load. But obviously facts don't phase you. I'm still waiting for you to state your qualifications Oil genius.

I already have.. and like I said you failed physics...
It's no wonder you can't grasp how to properly tune a two cycle engine..

 

[stihl sawing]

Whats the oil for, I ain't never used any. I took somebodys recommendation here that don't use it.

 

[cuttinties]

I already have.. and like I said you failed physics...

It won't hurt you to state them again. What makes you feel that you're the most intelligent person in the forum?

 

[bwalker]

It won't hurt you to state them again. What makes you feel that you're the most intelligent person in the forum?

No I do not, however I do feel your not the sharpest knife in the drawer..

 

[bwalker]

It might be a little rich. My tach said it's around 13,500 WOT but it cleans up in larger wood. The last Red Oak, around 20" with a 25+ base, it was 4-stroking continuously felling and bucking. But when I cut the stump it cleaned up.

If you are four stroking continuously you are more than a little rich.

 

[Trx250r180]

I already have.. and like I said you failed physics...
It's no wonder you can't grasp how to properly tune a two cycle engine..

Can i ask how open your muffler ports are ? On my sawmill i was trying to quiet it down once and i noticed a change on how dry the muffler was not touching the carb ,with a stock 660 muffler ,stock small exit and stock sold cover ,it was very dry inside ,piston had a light film of oil ,next test was just add a dual port cover with opening enlarged with stock baffle inside and stock side hole ,i saw slight wetness in the can ,enough i felt would not lean the saw out milling with ,3rd test (the loudest muffler ) Modded side exhaust hole and baffle removed ,with the modded front cover ,the saw seemed to run coolest with this setup ,but was very oily inside ,lots of sooty build up ,again untouched the carb ,when cutting they all seemed to run ok milling would 4 stroke letting out of the cut , so in your opinion does the muffler mods make a difference in how much oil is in the can ? or should the saw be leaned out more with the muffler opened up more to make it dryer inside ? The oil was H1r 32 to 1 with 92 pump gas if that makes any difference . So i guess my findings were the more i opened up the muffler to breathe ,the wetter and soottier things got .

 

[cuttinties]

No I do not, however I do feel your not the sharpest knife in the drawer..

Well if you think that I'm so dull why not build a saw and race me? I'll be at the Iowa GTG it's about halfway. I have offered to race you a few times in this thread. Running boat motors hardly makes you qualified as the oil god. That's the only thing that I have found in your last 10 pages of previous posts that even resembles first hand experience. Everything I'm finding is where other people build things for you. It's not hard to sign a check and go fast. Why not build it yourself? If I'm less intelligent than you how is it possible that I wouldn't need anyone to build a saw for me?

 

[Andyshine77]

The flash point has more to do with how quickly the oil is consumed by the combustion process and how it affects the octane rating of the fuel.

Flash point is referring solvents, which are evaporating/flashing off are ignited. The oil itself is not burning.

Sorry your test means nothing, it has zero controls. No chemist, engineer would take it serious.

 

[mdavlee]

Your missing my point. Blanket statements like yours might as well be false information. There is a point when more fuel doesn't equal more power. I'm sure you know that and have experienced it first hand if you've ever tuned a saw or any other engine for that matter. This same concept applies to quantity of oil vs protection IMO (diminishing return).

View attachment 419238

Once you set your F/A ratio you dont have to change it unless you have a change in elevation or significant change in air temp. This is independent of load.

Tune a saw with a 32-36" bar for that sized wood and check with a tach. Put a 20" on it and then see what it's turning. There's a difference with just the bars and chains resistance on the bar. If you tune pretty rich any way it won't matter but I try to tune with the longest bar I'll be running and leave it there.

 

[KG441c]

No 4 stroking? Bigwood?? Kaboommm!!

 

[Trx250r180]

Tune a saw with a 32-36" bar for that sized wood and check with a tach. Put a 20" on it and then see what it's turning. There's a difference with just the bars and chains resistance on the bar. If you tune pretty rich any way it won't matter but I try to tune with the longest bar I'll be running and leave it there.

Hey you ,you do not need a bar that long back east .........

 

[blsnelling]

No 4 stroking? Bigwood?? Kaboommm!!

There's a difference between a properly tuned saw and one that will barely clean up in the wood. That is unnecessarily rich and kills TONS of power. A properly tuned saw cleans up as soon as it hits the wood. Yes, I tune them richer than that when stumping or milling. The tune described above is only needed in those cases.

 

[KG441c]

There's a difference between a properly tuned saw and one that will barely clean up in the wood. That is unnecessarily rich and kills TONS of power. A properly tuned saw cleans up as soon as it hits the wood. Yes, I tune them richer than that when stumping or milling. The tune described above is only needed in those cases.

Ya Brad I actually figured out to tune off 4 stroke in the wood by a video u posted where it cut clean and when u decrease pressure a tad it sounded like a nanny goat

 

[KG441c]

There's a difference between a properly tuned saw and one that will barely clean up in the wood. That is unnecessarily rich and kills TONS of power. A properly tuned saw cleans up as soon as it hits the wood. Yes, I tune them richer than that when stumping or milling. The tune described above is only needed in those cases.

I was actually referring to 4 stroke out of the cut Brad.

 

[bwalker]

Can i ask how open your muffler ports are ? On my sawmill i was trying to quiet it down once and i noticed a change on how dry the muffler was not touching the carb ,with a stock 660 muffler ,stock small exit and stock sold cover ,it was very dry inside ,piston had a light film of oil ,next test was just add a dual port cover with opening enlarged with stock baffle inside and stock side hole ,i saw slight wetness in the can ,enough i felt would not lean the saw out milling with ,3rd test (the loudest muffler ) Modded side exhaust hole and baffle removed ,with the modded front cover ,the saw seemed to run coolest with this setup ,but was very oily inside ,lots of sooty build up ,again untouched the carb ,when cutting they all seemed to run ok milling would 4 stroke letting out of the cut , so in your opinion does the muffler mods make a difference in how much oil is in the can ? or should the saw be leaned out more with the muffler opened up more to make it dryer inside ? The oil was H1r 32 to 1 with 92 pump gas if that makes any difference . So i guess my findings were the more i opened up the muffler to breathe ,the wetter and soottier things got .

Its bone stock. No doubt opening the muffler up requires tuning changes. None of my saws, including those ported and those stock with muffler mods have wet mufflers.

 

[bwalker]

Flash point is referring solvents, which are evaporating/flashing off are ignited. The oil itself is not burning.

Sorry your test means nothing, it has zero controls. No chemist, engineer would take it serious.

EXACTLY!

 

[bwalker]

Well if you think that I'm so dull why not build a saw and race me? I'll be at the Iowa GTG it's about halfway. I have offered to race you a few times in this thread. Running boat motors hardly makes you qualified as the oil god. That's the only thing that I have found in your last 10 pages of previous posts that even resembles first hand experience. Everything I'm finding is where other people build things for you. It's not hard to sign a check and go fast. Why not build it yourself? If I'm less intelligent than you how is it possible that I wouldn't need anyone to build a saw for me?

The more you talk the more stupid you sound....

 

[KG441c]

Lol!! This is a wild thread

 

[Moparmyway]

Your missing my point. Blanket statements like yours might as well be false information. There is a point when more fuel doesn't equal more power. I'm sure you know that and have experienced it first hand if you've ever tuned a saw or any other engine for that matter. This same concept applies to quantity of oil vs protection IMO (diminishing return).

View attachment 419238

Once you set your F/A ratio you dont have to change it unless you have a change in elevation or significant change in air temp. This is independent of load.

You cant proove my point wrong, yet you really want to, so you post up Toyota air/fuel data which has NOTHING to do with what my statement referred to ??

So you try to tell me that my correct statement might as well be wrong .....

So you the kind of guy that would add watermelons to apples and expect to have everyone eat Lasagna ??


Listen real good cause I am only gunna say it one more time for ya .............. as the load is increased you need more power to do the work. Simple;

 

[redbull660]

redbull660 said: ↑
The flash point has more to do with how quickly the oil is consumed by the combustion process and how it affects the octane rating of the fuel.

Flash point is referring solvents, which are evaporating/flashing off are ignited. The oil itself is not burning.

Sorry your test means nothing, it has zero controls. No chemist, engineer would take it serious.

Don't know why you have to be such a jerk about it...

anyway -

• The flash point of a chemical is the lowest temperature where enough fluid can evaporate to form a combustible concentration of gas.

The flash point is an indication of how easy a chemical may burn. Materials with higher flash points are less flammable or hazardous than chemicals with lower flash points.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flash-point-fuels-d_937.html

oil is a chemical.
oil is in that list.
oil burns.
oil is consumed by the combustion process. The flash point does have an indication of how quickly that happens .


would appreciate it, if in the future you would at least research what your saying before you say it.