A R E A 51 Husq 365..."Here We Go!"

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Gracias Al.

I took a look at your porting of your BB cylinder and have a good idea.

According the squish solder readings, .020 was without a gasket.
 
Rough carpenters going home and the finish carpenters ready for work.

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FLOW...
 
10-4 Alstar:cheers:

Al, I was going to do that next. The right port on the lower right corner needs some work too. I just caught it with the photos.
 
You were right Alstar. The transfers on the compression release button side are considerably smaller. I'm going to port some more to widen them and widen towards the cylinder wall as that's where most of the meat is.

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Copy and paste RS

Choices.

After studying the ports, it's going to be tight.

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The actual marking will not be the final outcome, just wanted to give you an idea. I was hoping to widen the intake port and add the fingers but if I were to widen the intake port, I wouldn't be able to do the fingers. So...

This jug will have the traditional woods port, widen intake and exhaust and taper the closest transfer towards the intake and repeat the work I've already done to the transfer duct openings(lack of the correct term).

The original cylinder will see two portings. The first porting of it will have the finger ports, with no widening of the intake port, and then the second porting will take the shape like the fingers (more area) on the 5100.

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I have to find me a good test log, or it's the small oak.
 
Al, I was expecting more room on the outer edges of the intake port for porting. I was surprised that, in stock form, the edge of the intake ports are very close to the upper transfers. I didn't study that area until today. The surrounding space is tight, unlike the 5100 jug, where there was plenty of space to widen the intake port and then some.

It'll be a BIG challenge to do the finger porting, but I'm down.

Traditional woods port first. Hope to have it done this week as I'm busy with work right now.
 
Yeah, I have to agree. I remember when Al showed his work. Looked Kill.

Porting and time go together:)

This jug is tough to port with a dremel. I had to port the intake from inside the cylinder. It was tough, but I think I did alright given the circumstances. It's time for a Foredom. I do remember someone posting bits that had an extra long shaft for the dremel. That would be good too I suppose.

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Showing how much I lowered the intake and pointing the port down. Almost as much as the 5100.

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Time to work with the file a bit and then some sand paper down time.

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Why didn't you square up the bottom of the intake port? I only put a very slight curve to it. No rings ever cross it.

Just on that point, I've noticed that pistons in the 372/385 have reliefs either side at the skirt for case clearance. If you square up that area of the port, these reliefs start the intake time earlier, I noticed checking the 385 yesterday.
 
Just on that point, I've noticed that pistons in the 372/385 have reliefs either side at the skirt for case clearance. If you square up that area of the port, these reliefs start the intake time earlier, I noticed checking the 385 yesterday.

I mark the piston skirt on the cylinder wall and shape accordingly. You can get pretty close to flat and have the little reliefs start to open about the same time as the middle of the port.
 
The exhaust was tough not having the proper bits. And the angle of the port is tough to work through also.

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Port matched the flange port to the gasket and heat shield.

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Two more portings and it's on for a run.
 

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