Here is a report by an AS member that bought a lesser kit because it was the only one available for his saw. I would consider this a "B or C" quality kit. This was the only one out there and the supplier may have been told it was the "A" quality because of that reason alone! He spent a few hours fixing it, granted he was a little more involved in taking the correct steps than some may have, but his install was executed perfect. Pressure test, sealed up good, took some measurements and installed with questions. He was teaching both of us what a good quality kit should be!
There was no option to send another kit. Would have liked to have seen the look on his face after it started and then after several tanks of fuel... fine professional job of installing this kit! AND about what I'd expect from a great deal us guys who have this same addiction. I fed this back to the maker of said kit, he told me there all the same quality. I made him pull a bunch of cylinders off the shelf and check them, same story... they look the same and then he told me ... Nobody ever came back with a report like this, I'm not sure what to do. I told him to call the manufacturer and tell him to start checking his quality, tighten up the tolerances and verify that the kits are being assembled correctly..... and then that I'm going to drop his line if no improvement is made. I'm not the warehouse for these and they don't come to me first for inspection.. unfortunately.
MCW said test, test, measure, check and check again... couldn't agree more and on every kit... including OEM. One thing goes bad it's a complete wash. This supplier insists on buying grade "B" quality because there cheaper and he can afford to replace them cheaply. You install it and then complain, he says what went wrong, you tell him and he sends another..... and then tells you "I've sent two already, it must be you" and doesn't correspond anymore... just like the story Modified Mark has! One less guy buying doesn't hurt him, a bunch of guys not buying gets his attention maybe. He's selling turds and is buying them super cheap, selling at 500% mark up and never even flinches to replace several... your eventually going to get one that works or give up!
I'm not here to trash another seller, supplier or anything like that. I'm hereto tell you there's some shady stuff out there and people who are on the lookout for themselves only. Products become better when consumers demand it. Products become cheaper when competition for pricing occurs. I get xx% discount for volume buys, most require I buy $5000 in initial inventory of EACH size. I can not compete against big box stores, there per unit cost is lower than mine....
I can give you customer service, add the parts I think you need to do a quality re-build, fast shipping at reduced rates and my word that I'll replace it if/and when it fails.
Here's the report, enjoy... Oh. Rikk, You did a fine job, thank you for the feedback. It was received and hopefully understood. Not sure why its a little hard starting, maybe a carb kit, fuel line/filter, impulse line? Give me a jingle next time you need a part, I'll cut you a break for you effort!
1. Pulse line port. After the saw was assembled, I sealed it up to vacuum and pressure test it. It wouldn't even hold vacuum for more than a few seconds. I then pressurized the engine and I could hear it leaking where the fitting was pressed into the head. I tried seating it with a punch and it still leaked. Not a small leak either. So I took the saw apart and drove the fitting out, roughed it up a little on my lathe so it would hold sealant without spitting it out, coated it with sealer and pressed it back in. No leaks after letting it sit over night.
2. Muffler stud slots. They were wide enough for the stud to fit through, but the opening behind the slot, where the head fits, was way too small for the heads to fit into. I noticed this after the saw was together and couldn't take the cylinder off to work on the openings. I'd have just put it on my mill and opened them up a little. So, my only fix was to grind down the heads of the studs. I had to take the thickness down by about half and had to take about a 1/16" off 3 sides of the square head so it would fit without binding. I was afraid that if they didn't fit right, they would cause the muffler to not seal tight and could cause the saw to burn up.
3. Cylinder base. The sealing surface on the base of the cylinder was not flat. I set it up on a surface plate to measure it and it was anywhere from .005-.015 from flat depending on where you measured it. It wasn't crooked, but it was machined with wide, rough grooves in it. I realize that sealant will take care of a lot, but that was a bit much in my opinion. I was able to use a granite surface plate with different grits of sandpaper to get it flat to within .005 or so. I just felt that it was too risky without a gasket to take up the extra clearance.
On a good note, I ran the saw (at 40:1 with premium) through about 5-6 tanks of fuel the first day and after about 10 minutes of light cutting, the saw seemed to wake up a little. I think the rings were beginning to seat. When I got back home after the weekend, I checked the compression and ended up with 151 pounds. The only problem I had was that the saw became hard to start when it was hot after the first or second tank of fuel. I'm not sure if it was because the carb was adjusted without the rings seating or the plug was getting finicky from a higher mix ratio and being tuned a bit rich for break in.
Any thoughts on the starting issue?