Another beginner situation

[GeorgeD]

I've been watching you guys very kindly recommend chain saws based on a beginning user's situation. Here's another, hope you have time for some replies.

We live on 4 acres adjoining Arapaho National Forest @ 9,000'. The forest service was asked in to map out a defensible space for fire safety (not "if" they say, just "when") and at the same they marked out trees to be thinned for forest health. Probably about 200 lodgepole pine, 2-5 inches need to come down. The Boy Scouts will take a bunch for tepees, lashing projects and such, and we'll keep the rest for firewood.

Seems like it would be a managemable project over the summer. It might stop snowing by May and we can get started.

Will one saw handle the trees and taking off all the branches?
Is there an "Idiot's Guide to Cutting Down Trees Without Help and Keeping Your Fingers?

Thanks in advance

 

[HUSKYMAN]

The Husqvarna 346XP would be perfect for this task. High speed saw designed for smaller cutting. I dont see why you would need more than one unless time is a factor

 

[HUSKYMAN]

The owners manual will have basic tips for cutting trees down. For more info go to www.husqvarna.com

 

[eyolf]

I hate to argue with those that would steer you to a pro level saw, but would ask: when this project is over, do you expect to keep using the saw regularly?

That Husqvarna 346xp is a wonderful saw, but may be just a bit hard to use for a novice because it is designed for extreme high performance. Husky's old model 55 will serve as well, as will the 350/351, or even the 345. There are any number of units around 2.7 to 3 cubic inches displacement (45-50 cc) that could serve as well. There may even be a used, but completely serviceable unit at a dealer near you.

If you do not forsee using the saw much after this project is done your money is not well spent on the very best new saw, because after sitting idle for a year or two it will likely need attention. Buy a mid-range model, or a used one, or perhaps work out a deal with a local dealer whereby you expect to trade your saw back in on some other piece of equipment next fall. With reasonable care, 200 or so pine saplings will barely have broken a new pro-level saw in.

 

[davefr]

Go to www.osha.gov and search for the "logging advisor". It has some excellent interactive content on chainsaw/logging safety.

Don't forget to include a chainsaw helmet, chaps, and steel toe boots in your budget.

You won't need anything more than a Makita/Dolmar DCS401 for this task.

 

[davefr]

Here's a better URL:
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/logging_advisor/manual/manual.html

Originally posted by davefr
Go to www.osha.gov and search for the "logging advisor". It has some excellent interactive content on chainsaw/logging safety.

Don't forget to include a chainsaw helmet, chaps, and steel toe boots in your budget.

You won't need anything more than a Makita/Dolmar DCS401 for this task.

 

[stihltech]

saw

This is where a Stihl 025 (or MS250) would work well. Plenty of power for the pine and and small enough for limbing.

 

[woodsjunkie]

I have to agree with stihltech on this one a 025 would be all you need light,plenty of power. Might even be able to find a GOOD used one
check this one out .I will stand behind it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2013819673&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:US:1

 

[Methoss084]

If the Pines you are dropping are only 2-5" in diameter I would go with Stihltech's suggestion of the Stihl 025 (MS250) with a 16" bar. Power to weight ratio is great and it won't kill your saw budget. Plus, when the job is over it'll make a great firewood saw.
More importantly buy from a reputable dealer that can service what they sell and give you advice on how to use your saw properly.

Happy Sawin'
Josh

 

[sedanman]

Two good books:

"Barnacle Parps chainsaw guide" by Walter Hall
The advice on saws is dated because the book was published in 1977. Out of print but always a copy on e-bay

"The good woodcutters guide" by Dave Johnson
Available from baileys, talks alot about woodlot management but LOTS of good chainsaw safey tips and instruction.

E-mail me I have a copy of Barnacle Parps book for $10.00 includes shipping (missing dust jacket but book is fine)

 

[treeclimber165]

Idunno about a 'novice saw user', but if I had to go do this job I could GUARANTEE I wouldn't be using a mid-size saw like the 025 to cut 2"-5" trees (shrubs)! Personally, I'd use my top handle climbing saw, but that's just because I can use it with one hand and hold the stick with the other hand (SSSHHHH- don't tell OSHA!).
Even the smallest of saws would be perfect for stuff this small. Please tell me why in the world someone needs a 16" bar for 2"-5" trees!! A lil Echo cs3000 or Stihl 009 with a 12" bar is all that is called for here. A midsize saw with a 16" bar would spend more time cutting dirt than wood in this situation.

JMHO.

 

[John in MA]

I once cut up a friend's old rotten picket fence. SXL-925, 82cc's, 24" bar. I now understand what's so good about selecting a small enough saw for a job.

 

[Lamboll]

Saw for Altitude

GeorgeD,

Keep in mind that whatever saw you choose, the altitude of (assuming) Summit County will take away from your overall power--I believe (someone please correct if wrong). If this is the case, you may wish to buy a more powerfull saw with the idea that it will loose some power where you will be working.
If I remember, there was a Stihl dealership betweeen Breckenridge and Frisco. Also, there was a GREAT Stihl Dealer down in Denver off of 25--can't remember name. Used an 044 up there with 18" bar. It did quite well.

Regards, Gardiner

 

[ricksvar]

George,I would consider the 346xp a senceless choice for the project you noted.A Stihl 021 or at most 025 will provide more than enough cutting power for the job.As noted by treeclimber165,a smaller saw will handle the work and Echo small saws are a very good option.Consider other use you may have for a saw,including the project noted,to make your choice.
Think safety and use the right saw for the work,
Rick

 

[GeorgeD]

Thank you all, this is great stuff and we really appreciate it. Will check the Stihl which seems to be the most recommended and maybe with a 14 inch bar would keep from sawing too much dirt. Wouldn't exactly call these sticks shrubs, I probably couldn't drag 'em very far until they were cut up. They're 15-30 feet tall.

About the branches. Is it possible to rent a chipper for three months? Do the chipped branches have any use in themselves. We really need to keep the site as free of slash as possible. We're on the slope (20) so if things got hot it'd move pretty fast.

I'll check out the dealers in Denver, and there's a Stihl dealer in Evergreen that's listed as full service who would be closest.

Thanks again to all.

8-finger George

 

[NevadaWalrus]

power loss at altitude

I believe the rule of thumb is 3% power loss for every 1000' above sea level. At 9000' that means any gas engine will loose 27% of it's rated power.

 

[Dennis]

I find it interesting that noone has mentioned a brushsaw...for 2-5 inch stems...that would take alot backbreaking work out of the job...granted..the price immediately jumps...but for the ease of the job...I wouldnt use anything but...with proper sharpening and cutting technique..the brushsaw would also be quicker...

I think Eyolf mentioned it...do you plan on keeping the saw? There is always the option of converting it to a grasstrimmer...if you have the need...sometimes you can get a really good brushcutter with both options for about 500cdn...check Shindaiwas pricing...great brushsaws...Husky has a couple out this year that I will be buying, and using on a burn project we are doing for moose habitat...
Just another option...

 

[Dennis]

Hmmm...27% loss? maybe its time for a "tuned" brushcutter?

 

[GeorgeD]

Is a brush cutter a saw saw or a small chain saw? Tuned? I speak that: bored/stroked/rejet the carb and run it in C-Gas on Sundays.

George

 

[Dennis]

George, brushcutters look just like your everyday weedwacker, with a straight shaft...harness for comfort, that you wear like a packsack per say....but they have what is called a "maxi" (8" 26 tooth) or Opti (10" 22 tooth) round blade on them...they are designed for cutting saplings and small trees.....I have tree spacing crews here that use these frequently....there are different blade combinations available...check out Husky or Stihl or Jonsered's websites for some pictures...

when I say "tuned" I am basically referring to piping and porting the saw....do a search on "powertune" and you will find alot of information...