[cs-590] Hoping for some specific B&C suggestions, the longest & most-aggressive a 590 can push :)

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If you can oil it is the first consideration. After that you have to work within the limits of the saw. Skip tooth, very sharp, soft woods, let the saws weight do all the work, etc. and you can get by with the smallish saw.

If you can you should consider a larger saw to drive a 36 B&C. But if that is going to be a rare occurrence then go for it, IF you can oil the setup.

For reference my ms461 would not oil sufficiently the 32" B&C setup I have. Changing over to a high output oiler it now works much better, BUT I cannot lean on it hard if the B&C is buried completely in a log.
 
If you can oil it is the first consideration. After that you have to work within the limits of the saw. Skip tooth, very sharp, soft woods, let the saws weight do all the work, etc. and you can get by with the smallish saw.

If you can you should consider a larger saw to drive a 36 B&C. But if that is going to be a rare occurrence then go for it, IF you can oil the setup.
The 590 can barely oil a 24" bar.... much larger you'll be having issues.
 
Now I know I'm gonna probably catch hell for this, but why not. I'll also preface by saying I absolutely hate the chinese government. But have you considered one of the knockoff saws?

It appears that cash is an issue and if you can't find a reasonable deal on a used saw, perhaps look at the farmertec saw?

I'm not going to post a link cause I don't know if it's allowed, but you can get a 70cc saw for under 300 including the shipping.

Just my .02
 
Now I know I'm gonna probably catch hell for this, but why not. I'll also preface by saying I absolutely hate the chinese government. But have you considered one of the knockoff saws?

It appears that cash is an issue and if you can't find a reasonable deal on a used saw, perhaps look at the farmertec saw?

I'm not going to post a link cause I don't know if it's allowed, but you can get a 70cc saw for under 300 including the shipping.

Just my .02

If I had known about the knockoff 660's when I took apart that 5' Cottonwood, I may well have gone that route. Chainsaw equivalent of the Harbor Freight tool you buy for one project.

Doing it professionally, not a chance. Spend the money on something decent. Bring your own lunch in a cooler for a month, make your own coffee and skip Starbucks, learn to sharpen your own chains for $0.15 use of a file and ten mins instead of spending $7.50/ea, etc. Scrape up the pennies and get a decent saw.

Not trying to be a ****, and I know everyone starts somewhere, but if I hired a tree guy and he showed up on my property with a 42cc Poulan and I had to sharpen his saw for him, I'd send him home.
 
As far as chain sharpening goes, I recommend the Harbor Freight sharpener.
I am not the best at keeping a chain sharp either. This little sharpener is good for "correcting" my hand sharpening after I have sharpened them a few times.
It at least gets the angles back to being straight. After a while, you get better at hand filing and use it less and less.
 
As far as chain sharpening goes, I recommend the Harbor Freight sharpener.
I am not the best at keeping a chain sharp either. This little sharpener is good for "correcting" my hand sharpening after I have sharpened them a few times.
It at least gets the angles back to being straight. After a while, you get better at hand filing and use it less and less.
I still go back and straighten a chain up every now and then, or if it's rocked.
 
If I had known about the knockoff 660's when I took apart that 5' Cottonwood, I may well have gone that route. Chainsaw equivalent of the Harbor Freight tool you buy for one project.

Doing it professionally, not a chance. Spend the money on something decent. Bring your own lunch in a cooler for a month, make your own coffee and skip Starbucks, learn to sharpen your own chains for $0.15 use of a file and ten mins instead of spending $7.50/ea, etc. Scrape up the pennies and get a decent saw.

Not trying to be a ****, and I know everyone starts somewhere, but if I hired a tree guy and he showed up on my property with a 42cc Poulan and I had to sharpen his saw for him, I'd send him home.
I don't disagree. Buy quality, cry once. Buy cheap, cry forever. I will never buy cheap tools for my lively hood. That said, harbor freight has their place. If it's only going to see limited use, it's hard to justify the cost. If it's only a difference of a few bucks, say 10-20%, I'll go quality every time. But when it's 3-4 times, then I gotta think about it.

Im a firewood cutting guy. Once I have my stack, I'm done for the year. I bought a used stihl 029 about 10 years ago and it has run just fine and done all I could ask. The last couple years I've gotten into some bigger stuff, 30" + oak and while the saw cuts it, I have to be careful not to bog it down with a 20" .325 bar. Slow as mud.

So I bought one of the 660 kits for those times where the horsepower would be useful. I can't speak to anything related to it yet cause I'm still waiting on oem circlips.

Life is all about choices.....
 
I don't disagree. Buy quality, cry once. Buy cheap, cry forever. I will never buy cheap tools for my lively hood. That said, harbor freight has their place. If it's only going to see limited use, it's hard to justify the cost. If it's only a difference of a few bucks, say 10-20%, I'll go quality every time. But when it's 3-4 times, then I gotta think about it.

Im a firewood cutting guy. Once I have my stack, I'm done for the year. I bought a used stihl 029 about 10 years ago and it has run just fine and done all I could ask. The last couple years I've gotten into some bigger stuff, 30" + oak and while the saw cuts it, I have to be careful not to bog it down with a 20" .325 bar. Slow as mud.

So I bought one of the 660 kits for those times where the horsepower would be useful. I can't speak to anything related to it yet cause I'm still waiting on oem circlips.

Life is all about choices.....
Yup.
I have to agree.
I don't overspend on a tool I will rarely use.
I don't cheap out on one that I plan on using regularly either.
 
Yup.
I have to agree.
I don't overspend on a tool I will rarely use.
I don't cheap out on one that I plan on using regularly either.

Tools come in handy down the road, and find uses you couldn't consider at the time. My Milwaukee Sawzall was hardly touched for the 1st 10 years of my owning it. I use it more and more and more to where the initial cost is no longer a consideration. Same with my Dewalt Hammer Drill.
 
Tools come in handy down the road, and find uses you couldn't consider at the time. My Milwaukee Sawzall was hardly touched for the 1st 10 years of my owning it. I use it more and more and more to where the initial cost is no longer a consideration. Same with my Dewalt Hammer Drill.
I don't skimp too often on tools. I use them too often. I think I have a Black & Decker jig saw. That might be my only "cheap" tool.
If I were the OP, I would look at what size saw I actually need, and if the CS590 isn't quite big enough for 90% of the work, I would look for a decent used 372XP.
Or find one that needs a rebuild and rebuild it.
 
I don't disagree. Buy quality, cry once. Buy cheap, cry forever. I will never buy cheap tools for my lively hood. That said, harbor freight has their place. If it's only going to see limited use, it's hard to justify the cost. If it's only a difference of a few bucks, say 10-20%, I'll go quality every time. But when it's 3-4 times, then I gotta think about it.

Im a firewood cutting guy. Once I have my stack, I'm done for the year. I bought a used stihl 029 about 10 years ago and it has run just fine and done all I could ask. The last couple years I've gotten into some bigger stuff, 30" + oak and while the saw cuts it, I have to be careful not to bog it down with a 20" .325 bar. Slow as mud.

So I bought one of the 660 kits for those times where the horsepower would be useful. I can't speak to anything related to it yet cause I'm still waiting on oem circlips.

Life is all about choices.....
100% agreed. Almost exactly my situation, except I'm running an 034S. Looking forward to hearing how you like your 660 kit.

When it's 3-4x I think about the cost, but after thinking about it, usually I'd rather spend the extra $600 and have something solid. Have never once regretted buying the higher quality tool. In a year I won't remember what it costs, but will still have the good tool. Or I could buy junk and be swearing every time I start it.
 
I hear ya.

I did quite a bit of reading before I bought this thing. All 138 pages of comments on this site long before I signed up. Weighing up all the pros and cons, I went for it. If it does die on me, it's not that big of a deal. I don't think I've harvested any wood more than 10 miles from me.

Compared to other interests I have, the money spent on this is pretty insignifcant. More hobby than anything.

But as to the rest, I will always go for quality used vs cheap new if it's a money issue.
 
In years past depending on terrain and other factors I have ran 562’s with 32’s yes it’s a different saw, but to blanket the statement that 60cc can’t do it isn’t true.


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My truck has a 1 7/8ths inch towball fitted- if I bolt a correct sized coupling to a 40 foot lowbody trailer, I should be able to tow it eh? :omg:

How many of you guys fall timber?
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b3377fc14dfc7f42b484469f2a0a008f.jpg

These were breaking in that 562 running a 32 if everyone listened to places like here a 90cc saw would only have a 20 inch bar. Reality of what is actually done in the brush vs what firewood guys do is completely different.


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Do you run a richer oil mix with it?

Ran both 40 and 50 to 1 swapped oils, swapped bar oils, other then an air filter that saw has given me good service since 2013. My point was don’t make such a blanket statement just because you haven’t done something doesn’t mean it isn’t possible to do.


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