DDRT without footlocking?

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Now hold on there FTA ...

I'm going to the Sherrill Store now. I'm going to have to clone that system. It must work great, or you wouldn't bother with it.

It would work great if you are committed to SRT ~ for me at this time not so much. I did, after all, shelve the SRT project once the work started rolling in this year. In the end I preferred the dDRT setup with my LockJack and SpiderJack. Your individual style must be taken into consideration, and I am not accomplished at SRT climbing. My advice is to master, or at least become familiar with using SRT with just the prussic before you drop $238 on a Unicender.

Of course if you are a gear geek like me then by all means go for it, I mean after all, what's a couple of hundred for some climbing bling like the Unicender?
 
yea, you shouldnt trust the duck, or the wildcountry ropeman, which is identical -- neither are *gasp* ansi compliant for life support.

Unicender is one peice of gear I havent tried yet, although I've heard it's nice. I might try the rope wrench soon though.

I've been trying RADS, yo-yo, w/e you want to call it lol. works well, just haven't gotten used to it like I have drt -- wont take long though I think.
 
OK, on a serious note now.


I think Spiderjack II.


Mostly that's all I'm thinking
.....plus a 2xhandle CMI ascender up-top with foot harness down-low to clip on the saddle for the long climbs and redirects. The ART retrievable friction saver or quick kit is kind of looking right to me too.


That's it. It doesn't get any simpler, faster or versatile for next season.


Anybody see the pros and cons to this setup????


:spiderman:

http://new.climb-art.com/
 
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OK, I think Spiderjack II... The ART retrievable friction saver or quick kit is kind of looking right to me too... Anybody see the pros and cons to this setup????

About the only "con" to the SpiderJack is that it can not be installed mid-line so you end up with it on a dedicated rope. It also limits you to only one spliced end so you can slide it on the rope from the non spliced end. Optimal use for this device is with a pulley, although I use it with a leather cambium saver for rapid deployment. Yesterday I worked in a drizzling rain all day and once thoroughly soaked the friction through the leather tube became objectionable. The friction through the SpiderJack also increased and the wet rope didn't "flow" through it as well, but it was still usable although it seemed like I was back to tending a friction knot. The SJ's holding power was even better than with dry rope so I never felt insecure.
 
That's good to know.

Yeah, it doesn't pop on and off midline, but I think that is a tiny price to pay for the advantages that piece.

Do you know if that TWINJACK is a dual cam deal?

Here is why I ask. When I shoot a rope up into the tree, I just want a 1:1 ratio climb because that is as fast as I can get along. So I'm getting a KONG or Ascentree dual rope/2 hand ascender and a foot harness + elastic cord.

I would just climb up both legs of the rope together with a KONG and foot harness. Then once I'm in a spot, I can just toss the KONG and harness back on the saddle until I need them again for the next high climb in the tree.

The KONG and foot harness are the "elevator gear," and the SJ2 is the "working gear." It's a simple plan. The thing is that don't think any of the JACK devices have a dual cam for two legs of rope at once do they? Do you know?

For "elevator moves," I'll probably just find some kind of dual ascender that I can attach right at the saddle bridge where the SJ2 should be. Oh, and of course since the SJ2 does not detach/reattach, I'll just leave it on the line as I transcend. No need to take it off.
 
That's good to know.

Yeah, it doesn't pop on and off midline, but I think that is a tiny price to pay for the advantages that piece.

Do you know if that TWINJACK is a dual cam deal?

Here is why I ask. When I shoot a rope up into the tree, I just want a 1:1 ratio climb because that is as fast as I can get along. So I'm getting a KONG or Ascentree dual rope/2 hand ascender and a foot harness + elastic cord.

I would just climb up both legs of the rope together with a KONG and foot harness. Then once I'm in a spot, I can just toss the KONG and harness back on the saddle until I need them again for the next high climb in the tree.

The KONG and foot harness are the "elevator gear," and the SJ2 is the "working gear." It's a simple plan. The thing is that don't think any of the JACK devices have a dual cam for two legs of rope at once do they? Do you know?

For "elevator moves," I'll probably just find some kind of dual ascender that I can attach right at the saddle bridge where the SJ2 should be. Oh, and of course since the SJ2 does not detach/reattach, I'll just leave it on the line as I transcend. No need to take it off.

I quit buying Kong gear after reading about a few accidents with their stuff breaking. In particular, if I remember correctly, they subbed out production of some rings to China and they were not laser etched nor batch tested. They had a huge recall on them after at least one fatal accident, possibly more if remember right. Tobe Sherrill refunded the replacement value of them, which was a stand-up move, but I quit buying any Kong products after that. Additionally, warnings have been issued that the Chinese have copied several Petzl products down to the packaging, so you should only buy Petzl products from a licensed dealer hereinafter.
 
I compare the two, home and work, to driving a noice little Ford 500 or the nice, new Boeing 787 Dreamliner. Who can help it?
 
I left the piece hanging about an SRT line over a fork at the end of a branch. I guess everyone else has already been there, and I'm the one just coming to this point in climbing finally.

Is this the trick in the diagram common for anyone?

The theory is based on the concept that you would avoid limb walking all of the branches. A climber sets up a TIP or "redirect" on the end of a high branch, and then he DRTs from it on the outside of a tree. He can access it from top to bottom from the outside, and in concept it's a bit like bucket truck access except with a rope trick.

SecretWeaponDiagram.jpg


I'm not getting paid for art tricks, so art-critics just stand by. :tongue2:
 
Modern Art I love it.:smile2: Other then haveing the end of the srt tied off, no reason you have to do that. The concept is correct. I would just work off of the single line in that situation But we were talking about drt off the sw. May not of been the best example of that.
Yes with multiple lines you could quickly cover the outside of the tree. The fact you can quickly and easily come back up with out getting wore out is what makes this so feasible. Now if you had to really redirect while on a out side SRT line that is were switching over to DRT off of the srt would be advantages.
Today after I finished a crane removal I had to remove several big very dead branches from an Oak tree that were over a roof and deck right on the lake in Lake Arrowhead. This was a tall Oak with all its leaders starting at over 50 feet. Can't gaff it, but it was a piece of cake to shoot a line up high and SRT up. You would of had to been on superman status to pull your self up that tree. On another trunk over the driveway. that had a savoir lean and also a big dead branch, this was 45 ft up or so. I easily throw a line over it.( From the deck) and SRTed right to the dead branch, cut it from underneath and was out of there. A year ago I would of walk out on that sucker using a good high tie in. Bottom line Thanks to SRT and the Rads, I finished that job in half the time it would of took me a year ago. Two high ascends and never broke a sweat.(maybe a little cradleing the big dead branch down over the roof) I am sure if I hadn't of did that tree it would of got gaffed by some one else.
It wasn't me I give credit to, but SRT for getting that job done. Just an example.
 
Yep, tactical moves, BM.

You are in the good parts with all the trees :msp_thumbup: I bet it's freezing. It's not even cool down here except at night. Nights here would be warm for anyone else except who lives here.

You know, the deal with that diagram and the red line looping back to the trunk is to pull yourself back in. Otherwise you'd just SRT up and down the outside w/o being able to come back in. I think I might use this stunt this week to refine an Aleppo Pine. Eh, and I guess I'll do it even without the Spiderjack II or Secret Weapon in the mix.

There's plenty of opportunity for the DRT off of the SRT, but it's not going to be every single job.

So what do you know about buying an SJ2 in the US? Sherrill is the only ART dealership, and they don't carry the SJ2. Maybe I should order it from England or something. I'm sure someone in Ausy would think it would something to send something here.
 
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