Does anyone build their own csm saws?

[sawn_penn]

880/3120 seem to be the csm saws of choice, but they are pretty darn expensive.

Weight doesn't seem like such a problem as the saw is supported on rails or the trunk throughout the cut. A chain brake is also not super useful on a csm.

So... has anyone out there built their own csm saw using a less expensive motor? How did it go?

 

[sawn_penn]

I guess not.

It doesn't seem that hard. Gravity oiler, no clutch, just a motor bolted onto a plate, and a bar bolted to the plate too.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I've toyed with the idea of making one using a 4 stroke engine. The power to weight ratio would be a issue. I would defenitely make frame to support it like a Peterson or Lucas.

I wonder how a 4 stroke would compare to a 2 stroke of the same HP in cutting efficiency.

 

[scottr]

4 Cycle

From what I've read on another website , the four cycle chainsaw mills use a gearbox to increase the chain speed to improve cutting speed . I've also wondered if the low tone of a 6 or 8 hp vertical shaft four cycle with a slower chain speed with a gravity chain oiler would be tolerable .

 

[sawn_penn]

Does low rpm / high torque mean that you would just need to push the saw into the cut harder? Or file the rakers lower?

How often do people break chains on regular mills?

 

[carvinmark]

I've been milling for about two years now and I have not broke a chain yet,Hope I don't!!!!

 

[woodshop]

How often do people break chains on regular mills?

I've never broken a chain milling either, but then I usually toss them before they are filed down as far as I usually do a regular chain, so even though they get used hard, they don't get used as long, thus less wear on chain as a whole compared to regular. Reason is, after several filings and I need to tackle the rakers, as careful as I try filing down those guys there always seems to be a few that I cut too far, and the chain tends to grab and snag at that point. Not a big deal limbing or even bucking, I adjust my cutting accordingly if I run into that. Milling however, different story. That not quite perfectly filed older chain keeps me from a smooth continuous cut down the log as it bogs down more as it stops and snags. So, I just don't sharpen the milling chain as far as I do regular chain. I know what you guys are going to say, LEARN TO SHARPEN RAKERS EVENLY and that won't happen.

Blades I do break from time to time... usually when I keep cutting with one long after it starts to get dull and I should change it out but keep going. Then it starts to wander, gets hot, binds or sometimes breaks.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I've yet to break a chain but that's why I use .404 exclusively on my 084. I thought about switching to 3/8 but the slightly narrower kerf isn't worth holes in my shins.