My lightly modified MS361 has a 25" Stihl light bar on it and it's nicely balanced.
thankfully you walked away unharmed! Jeez..Don't ever, ever trust, that someone, says he knows what he is doing, if you are the one standing near the damn tree doing the important work.
Yeah got myself a drink that nite.thankfully you walked away unharmed! Jeez..
My 361 is stock, I don't work in mods or know anyone here that does that.In hardwoods no 60cc saw will pull a 24" burried in the wood with any sort of authority.
The 361 is a turd stock until you gut the muffler. It runs much better after.
In western softwood a 361 is workable with a 24",but even then I prefer skip chain on a stock muffler modded 361.
A ported 361 by @huskihl will pull a 24" bar with authority in both soft and hardwood if you have good chain sharpening skills.
To say bs is like saying your situation is what everyone else's situation is. Standing up to buck is never ever a bad thing. Less back strain, keeps you farther away from a potential kick back, allows for a different way to run a saw.Locally we make a landing or spot where we buck up fire wood with some soft wood on the ground to hold the fire wood up off the ground.
This does a couple things, it keeps you out of the dirt and lets you stand up straighter with a short bar on the saw.
I never see anyone with a bar over 20 inch locally but online everyone and their dog has a 28 or 32.
I asked a couple of youtubers how they gather up the wood after they buck the tree up where it lands but never get answers, they're just doing it to make videos lol. The whole stand up and buck thing is bs, just get the wood up off the ground.
25 inch on a 261cm will oil good. Oil runs out right about same time fuel doesI ran a 28” bar on my 034 super with a ship tooth chain. It worked well on pnw old growth. It worked well even milling. The same 28” bar is now on my 261 and works great there.
Sacrificing a bar for ergonomics is a trade off I’d make any day of cutting. Insufficient oiling will eventually wreck a bar. But it’s one of the easiest items to change out on any chainsaw.
My family moved from Rolds two generations ago.
And, when you upgrade a Stihl MS 361 with a 20" bar to a 24' bar you will find out that it will not oil the bar as you hoped that it would. The power might be sufficient but the oiler cannot handle the bigger bar and chain as it should. My solution was to buy an MS 440. That worked.I've used either a 24" or 28" bar on my 361 (I forget right now) but used a skip chain on it. Worked fine the few times I used it. (I normally use a 20" bar on the 361 which feels about perfect to me.)
My 361 has never oiled worth a crap (even after 2 oil pumps replaced under warranty) so YMMV.
You can upgrade the oiler to a Ms460R oiler and have all the oil you would ever want.And, when you upgrade a Stihl MS 361 with a 20" bar to a 24' bar you will find out that it will not oil the bar as you hoped that it would. The power might be sufficient but the oiler cannot handle the bigger bar and chain as it should. My solution was to buy an MS 440. That worked.
There was a thread only this site the let it be known, although not from Stihl.Rather amazing that Stihl never notified me of that possibility. I bought the saw brand new in the spring of 2007:
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Rather amazing that Stihl never notified me of that possibility. I bought the saw brand new in the spring of 2007:
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Not really. It would surprise me if a Stihl dealer went out of their way to let me know what parts on my saw were either used on other models, or could be replaced with parts from bigger saws that would give better performance. If I were dealing with a bunch of older guys that had grease and oil permanently packed under their fingernails, that would be a different story. Around here, the guy has to look your model up on the computer just to tell you what sparkplug it uses (hint - there are ONLY 2 to pick from).Rather amazing that Stihl never notified me of that possibility. I bought the saw brand new in the spring of 2007:
This is exactly it. Most dealers are pretty clueless.Not really. It would surprise me if a Stihl dealer went out of their way to let me know what parts on my saw were either used on other models, or could be replaced with parts from bigger saws that would give better performance. If I were dealing with a bunch of older guys that had grease and oil permanently packed under their fingernails, that would be a different story. Around here, the guy has to look your model up on the computer just to tell you what sparkplug it uses (hint - there are ONLY 2 to pick from).
I like to mess with them. I'll tell him/her what I want. When they ask for the model, I'll tell him what I'm putting it on. Just before he/she gives up and asks for help, I'll tell him/her all the modules that it fits, and what models it was probably included on in one of the stock configurations. Sometimes they look up and ask if I'd be willing to run the keyboard for them because it would probably be faster. The really sad thing is that I don't actually know much about saws.This is exactly it. Most dealers are pretty clueless.
Last week I was trying to buy a Husky small spline 3/8 sprocket rim to convert my 550XP from .325 to 3/8. The kid at the dealer asked for a model number... finally I had to break it to him that yes you can convert a 550 to 3/8 even though it's not on the IPL
Rather amazing that Stihl never notified me of that possibility. I bought the saw brand new in the spring of 2007:
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