Homelite Chainsaws

[Eccentric]

Duh! :redface:

Took a close look at the fuel cap. No visible vent of any kind. Will drill a 1/16" hole in him and try it out after 7:00 am. 4:30 is a tad early in my neighborhood.

Project saws never have the correct spark plug so why do I expect it to have a vented gas cap.

Stock cap is vented. Has a wierd, large rubber and metal valve that was glued into the bottom of it. The valve likes to come unglued and hide in the bottom of the tank. Almost the size of a nickle. I'll try to remember to shoot a pic of one later. If the valve falls out, the cap will of course vent fine. The saw will just pee gas out of the 'tit' in the center of the cap when tilted. You can use an XL12 or XL100-series cap on that saw.

Sorry about your XL800. At least bearings and seals are cheaper than a cylinder. I'll be bugging Mitch for bearings and seals for my XL903 and Super E-Z projects soon too. Got a long list of gaskets, seals, bearings, and such to send him. Gaskets for my 900D, EZ6, 1130G, an XL-12,............

 

[67L36Driver]

Stock cap is vented. Has a wierd, large rubber and metal valve that was glued into the bottom of it. The valve likes to come unglued and hide in the bottom of the tank. Almost the size of a nickle. I'll try to remember to shoot a pic of one later. If the valve falls out, the cap will of course vent fine. The saw will just pee gas out of the 'tit' in the center of the cap when tilted. You can use an XL12 or XL100-series cap on that saw.

Sorry about your XL800. At least bearings and seals are cheaper than a cylinder. I'll be bugging Mitch for bearings and seals for my XL903 and Super E-Z projects soon too. Got a long list of gaskets, seals, bearings, and such to send him. Gaskets for my 900D, EZ6, 1130G, an XL-12,............

C5 fuel lid now has a .040" hole dead center. I'll worry about a duckbill later. We still got bubbles so am going to pull the cover off and investigate/change the pickup line. Diaphram is in the carb. correctly.

I have sourced most everything to rebuild the XL-800. It's just not practical from a cash outlay perspective to use all new parts..........................................yet. I'm not in this to make money.

Anybody have a parts saw in the XL-700, 800, 900 group?

 

[little possum]

923 parts work Carl?

 

[67L36Driver]

923 parts work Carl?

I don't know untill I look at a 923 IPL. Homelite number for the XL-700 and 800 flywheel is 63406. With points or solid state looks to be the same, as it uses the same pickup pole.

Just looked, they are the same number in the IPLs. 63406

You got one?

It is the Wico magneto, owned at the time by Globe-Union.

 

[mweba]

C5 fuel lid now has a .040" hole dead center. I'll worry about a duckbill later. We still got bubbles so am going to pull the cover off and investigate/change the pickup line. Diaphram is in the carb. correctly.

I have sourced most everything to rebuild the XL-800. It's just not practical from a cash outlay perspective to use all new parts..........................................yet. I'm not in this to make money.

Anybody have a parts saw in the XL-700, 800, 900 group?

I'm still digging/inventory. I did see some xl700 stuff though. Doesn't look good on the bearings, bunch of EZ/zip and misc stuff.

 

[Eccentric]

Here's one gem that Mitch found for me. Had to share the pic he sent!

Now that is DEAD SEXY, and the critical part I was looking for. Another member here has found an NOS cylinder for me. Thanks guys!!!

 

[Eccentric]

Carl one thing you need to be careful of when searching for parts for your XL800 is the ignition manufacturer. Both Phelon and Wico points ignitions were used on these saws. Methinks you'll need to match the right flywheel with the right coil. Shouldn't be hard if to do if you get a whole parts saw.

 

[67L36Driver]

I don't know untill I look at a 923 IPL. Homelite number for the XL-700 and 800 flywheel is 63406. With points or solid state looks to be the same, as it uses the same pickup pole.

Just looked, they are the same number in the IPLs. 63406

You got one?

It is the Wico magneto, owned at the time by Globe-Union.

All I need to find is the flywheel. I have the crank, rod, bearings etc. located and bookmarked.

 

[chainsawlady]

Parts

All I need to find is the flywheel. I have the crank, rod, bearings etc. located and bookmarked.

Carl
Like I said for some reason I have 7 rotors - 63406. We bought some parts from a tree trimmer service and I don't know why they had stocked so many rotors.
chainsawlady

 

[kev1n]

Homelite 150

Last night I made the mistake of trying to make one working saw from two 150s. I'm trying to get to the points which is the problem and can't figure out what screw fits into the flywheel. I'm thinking it's a 10-32 because that's the only screw I don't have handy. Can anybody confirm this so I can head out to the hardware store and finish torturing myself.
Thanks Kevin

 

[struggle]

To get to them I thought you had to take the flywheel off.

If that is what you mean

 

[kev1n]

Yes I'd like to pull the flywheel to get to the points, What screw fits into the flywheel. I would download the ipl you sent me but my computer is acting funny and I don't want to do anything to upset it.

 

[67L36Driver]

Ratchet/puller bolt holes.

I really cannot say abut 150's but XL-12, XL-101 and XL-800 are threaded #12-24tpi.

 

[crane]

Not 100% positive on the Mac, but the older PL series Remington's used a #12- 24 srews.

 

[lesorubcheek]

I use pullers religiously on most saws, but I've never tried to use a puller to remove a flywheel from a 150. Always scared I'd burr the end of the crank and since its left-hand threads, ya can't screw a nut down to protect the end (unless you have a left hand threaded one). I've had great luck with a piece of oak. About 1" square and 8-10" or so in length. A couple good hammer blows on the back side using the wood block against the flywheel and it'll pop off. Lately the heat gun heats up the pulley a bit first to help it out also.

Dan

 

[little possum]

I don't know untill I look at a 923 IPL. Homelite number for the XL-700 and 800 flywheel is 63406. With points or solid state looks to be the same, as it uses the same pickup pole.

Just looked, they are the same number in the IPLs. 63406

You got one?

It is the Wico magneto, owned at the time by Globe-Union.

Ill crawl upstairs tommorow after work, and see.

 

[kev1n]

I use pullers religiously on most saws, but I've never tried to use a puller to remove a flywheel from a 150. Always scared I'd burr the end of the crank and since its left-hand threads, ya can't screw a nut down to protect the end (unless you have a left hand threaded one). I've had great luck with a piece of oak. About 1" square and 8-10" or so in length. A couple good hammer blows on the back side using the wood block against the flywheel and it'll pop off. Lately the heat gun heats up the pulley a bit first to help it out also.

Dan

The 150 I'm trying to get the points off is junk and probably has a bent crank from somebody useing the wrong bar and it got pulled into the clutch and blew it up, it's the worst damaged saw I've ever seen and I'd be surprised if somebody didn't get hurt. I've been hitting the flywheel dead on with a hammer, prying with the hammer claw and screwdrivers, along with profanities and it wont budge.
I'll get some 12-24 screws and try that with my puller tommorow and of course I'll be a little more gentle with my other 150 with good compression and points not working.

 

[homelitejim]

[video=youtube;0o0p8ZDAURM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o0p8ZDAURM[/video]


Homelite 770D

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Brian13 Here is what the C-51 starter looks like.

 

[Eccentric]

Brian13 Here is what the C-51 starter looks like.

If Brian has that overrunning bearing type starter on his C-52, then I don't have a starter for him. I do have a FM starter (and probably a good cup) from a C-5 that I could send him to retrofit with...