Homelite Chainsaws

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The 540 oil pump has an aluminum housing where the 8800 is some kinda hard plastic. The 540 uses a gasket where the 8800 doesn't. Can't remember for sure, but pretty sure the holes for the passages are in slightly different locations. Wish I could tell ya for sure, but best I can say is there's a chance it would work, but I'd doubt it. Have to give it less than a 50/50 chance of interchange. Sorry I can't give a definite answer... maybe someone can say for sure.

Dan
 
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This Kenworth ad was scanned from my 1971 Loggers Handbook.

you can find it linked on several sites but best to see the huge collection of it and others on the house of homly site
section for marketing and neat pics by skyvalleysaw, aka mrbigsaw. :msp_thumbup:

I have many homy ads in the main album but had started to build a seperate album for them.

homelit pictures by mrbigsaw - Photobucket
 
Of coarse everybody looks at the saw, but check out the size of that choker!! How would like to pull that monster thru the brush, attached to a cat bull-line. thanks for posting the memorbila. DS.
 
I picked up a Homelite XL 98 chop saw today. Does anybody know how many cc? I'll try to post some pics in a bit.
 
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I got it from my FIL. It was the fire dept's many years ago. It's been sitting in his barn for years. Is there a chainsaw it's based off of?
 
Took the XL-113 out yesterday and it stalled af ew times and in the cut it would miss fire every once in a while.

What is spec on points gap? I think it was set at something like .020" THinking it might to far apart?

Saw would just quit at times and then restart with choke. I am thinking a carb kit is in order as well.

WHen it wanted to it ran great and then all of a sudden nothing. But would restart.
 
Adventures in XL-113s.

I have been trying to assemble a resonable copy of a 101 with an auto oiler using two ebay carcasses and one from Struggle.

Left out the cylinder base gasket as a matter of S.O.P. and now I find the flywheel magnets hit the coil poles. It seems that moving the cylinder .030" closer to the crank takes the coil with it.

Darn the luck.

I will drag out the air driven die grinder in the morning.
 
Took the XL-113 out yesterday and it stalled af ew times and in the cut it would miss fire every once in a while.

What is spec on points gap? I think it was set at something like .020" THinking it might to far apart?

Saw would just quit at times and then restart with choke. I am thinking a carb kit is in order as well.

WHen it wanted to it ran great and then all of a sudden nothing. But would restart.

.015"

Clean the dirt off arond the points cover and you will find it printed on the outer edge of the magneto backplate.

Pump side of the carb. may not be able to keep up with the demand.
 
.015"

Clean the dirt off arond the points cover and you will find it printed on the outer edge of the magneto backplate.

Pump side of the carb. may not be able to keep up with the demand.

Well I am only off by 25%:msp_scared: I should have looked at the cover a little closer
 
I have been trying to assemble a resonable copy of a 101 with an auto oiler using two ebay carcasses and one from Struggle.

Left out the cylinder base gasket as a matter of S.O.P. and now I find the flywheel magnets hit the coil poles. It seems that moving the cylinder .030" closer to the crank takes the coil with it.

Darn the luck.

I will drag out the air driven die grinder in the morning.

Hope you get it sorted out. I was really happy with how this saw runs. I did notice the lack of antivibe after the first tree though:laugh:
 
Hope you get it sorted out. I was really happy with how this saw runs. I did notice the lack of antivibe after the first tree though:laugh:

Flywheel also drags on the nylon wire retainer under the top left coil mounting boss. I may have to bite the bullet and install the base gasket.

I didn't have that trouble with my first two 101's.
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Left out the cylinder base gasket on both for more compression.
 
Got out to the farm and got in a little test and tune today. The XL-101 likes his new 20" bar and is my favorite saw to run. His twin with the 16 harnose finally has the carb. straightened out. The XL-12 works well with his 'new' 20" and the Skilsaw 1645 just motors along after opening the 'H' jet a tad.

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My friend tells me "No Cookies" so I make cuts every 20". The white oak has been down several years and the outer two inchs are punk. That log is hollow starting about where the sledge is sitting. He has a shag bark hickory near the oak for the next batch when I get them assembled.
 
Got out to the farm and got in a little test and tune today. The XL-101 likes his new 20" bar and is my favorite saw to run. His twin with the 16 harnose finally has the carb. straightened out. The XL-12 works well with his 'new' 20" and the Skilsaw 1645 just motors along after opening the 'H' jet a tad.

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My friend tells me "No Cookies" so I make cuts every 20". The white oak has been down several years and the outer two inchs are punk. That log is hollow starting about where the sledge is sitting. He has a shag bark hickory near the oak for the next batch when I get them assembled.

Cool pic!!
 
Super EZ swap

Hi all, today i picked up two older EZ saws. One is a super all there but the rear handle is broken off with damage to the air cleaner housing, motor\chain\bar seems good but you can tell a patch job on the fuel tank has been made. Second saw is a blue EZ, missing bar, starter rope tight like locked motor but when i turned the inner clutch it turned over over fine but clunked when i went counterclockwise but i have seen this before and all has been fine in the past will not know untill i get in but, will a super EZ motor go into a older blue saw, would look good, got chrome.
 

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