Homelite Chainsaws

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If Brian has that overrunning bearing type starter on his C-52, then I don't have a starter for him. I do have a FM starter (and probably a good cup) from a C-5 that I could send him to retrofit with...

He was asking if C-51 and C-52 had the same starter.
He has the C-52 with FM starter.
I think he has no pulley and starter pawl's for it.
 
Brian13 Here is what the C-51 starter looks like.

attachment.php

If Brian has that overrunning bearing type starter on his C-52, then I don't have a starter for him. I do have a FM starter (and probably a good cup) from a C-5 that I could send him to retrofit with...

He was asking if C-51 and C-52 had the same starter.
He has the C-52 with FM starter.
I think he has no pulley and starter pawl's for it.

Here is what I have,

attachment.php


Not really sure what the starter looks like, but its the last piece of the puzzle of the only real Homelite I have. Guess once its up and running I will have to get another to keep it company, I dont think the little XL I have will do.
 
Good deal. Looks like he has a starter cup. My C-5 FM starter assembly will work just fine. Doesn't have a bit of paint left, but works great, and even has a new rope. He'll need to scare up a handle though. This was my 'working starter' on my first C-5 when I was cutting firewood with that saw. I put aside the "pretty" (and functional) original starter as I didn't want to beat it up. Switched the starters back before I sent that saw to Jeff. Saved the other starter ( minus a pull handle....needed that for Jeff) for Brian.
 
Brian13 Here is what the C-51 starter looks like.

attachment.php

My C-51 has that starter and only workie about 50% of the time. Is there a way to make it work better:msp_confused:

In order for it to grab I have to kind of drop/let the cord snap back to the housing and then gently pull and if I feel it catch then pull hard up on it.

Any letting off the rope and I get nothing but a sore arm from pulling for something that is not there:msp_mad:
 
My C-51 has that starter and only workie about 50% of the time. Is there a way to make it work better:msp_confused:

In order for it to grab I have to kind of drop/let the cord snap back to the housing and then gently pull and if I feel it catch then pull hard up on it.

Any letting off the rope and I get nothing but a sore arm from pulling for something that is not there:msp_mad:

Is it dry and dirty were the roller bearing are?
It needs a little grease in there.
Mine grabs right away.
 
Sprag/overrunning clutchs are happy when they are clean and lightly oiled. ATF should be the best lubricant. (Your car/truck has 'em in the transmission)

I still cannot believe they used them on chainsaws. One of the dirtyst environments there is.
 
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XL-123 troubles.

The cylinder on my XL-123 is scored badly. I have a couple 101 cylinders (1.750" bore) that are in near mint condition along with their pistons. Problem is the pilot bore in the crankcase of the 123 is 2.000" and the cylinder skirt on a 101 cylinder is 1 15/16". Base bolt pattern is the same.

Will I get in deep doo-doo if I use the 101 cylinder in the 123 crankcase?


View attachment 203366
203366d1318965805-101-spigot-small-jpg


Early 101 cylinder on top, late production cylinder on bottom.
 
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Should work just fine as long as the stroke isn't far off. Would mock it up to be sure.

Finished my SXL with a XL-400 top end last night. Just had to trim the skirts a bit.
 
Should work just fine as long as the stroke isn't far off. Would mock it up to be sure.

Finished my SXL with a XL-400 top end last night. Just had to trim the skirts a bit.

Stroke is the same, only the bore is 1/16" larger for the 103 etc so they made the spigot (pilot) a 1/16" larger.

I figure as long as the bore centerline is perpendicular to the crankpin centerline, a slight (.030") offset fore/aft ore up/down should not hurt. The wrist pin should take care of that.
 
(Kenworth ad)

Thanks for posting that DT! I do believe that's a fine example of a mighty Homelite 3100G.:bowdown:

Should work just fine as long as the stroke isn't far off. Would mock it up to be sure.

Finished my SXL with a XL-400 top end last night. Just had to trim the skirts a bit.

Can't wait to see that saw in action Mitch!:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
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I picked these two up at the scrap yard today. The first is the first Homelite cutoff saw I have ever seen. The other has no tag on it and I can't even begin to ID it, I don't know much about Homies. I plan to get the cutoff saw going again, the piston is set up.
Homelitecutoffsaw001.jpg
Homelitecutoffsaw002.jpg
Homelitecutoffsaw004.jpg
 
I picked these two up at the scrap yard today. The first is the first Homelite cutoff saw I have ever seen. The other has no tag on it and I can't even begin to ID it, I don't know much about Homies. I plan to get the cutoff saw going again, the piston is set up.
Homelitecutoffsaw001.jpg
Homelitecutoffsaw002.jpg
Homelitecutoffsaw004.jpg

the blue one is a Zip, the cut off saw is based on a 550-650-750 depending on size of piston and cylinder 550=84cc, 650=100cc, 750=114cc
 
Is it dry and dirty were the roller bearing are?
It needs a little grease in there.
Mine grabs right away.

I took it off one time and sprayed it out with carb cleaner but never oiled it. I will have to try that and see how it goes. I left it dry. Thinking it would stay cleaner but maybe I defeated it by this for working.
 
I picked these two up at the scrap yard today. The first is the first Homelite cutoff saw I have ever seen. The other has no tag on it and I can't even begin to ID it, I don't know much about Homies. I plan to get the cutoff saw going again, the piston is set up.
Homelitecutoffsaw001.jpg

That is a DM50 that is based on the Homelite 450
 
Homelite 8800 oil pump on a 540?

I have a feller wanting to know if the oil pump off of a Homelite 8800 will work on a 540. I know the saws are very similar but the IPLs show different part numbers, that I can not find any cross reference between, and there seems to be some difference between the associated parts.
 

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