Homelite Chainsaws

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from earlier this week: My 707 G
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Clutch removal..

Hello Homelite fans. So I've got an XL924 and I would like to remove the clutch and replace/grease the bearing, rim, sprocket, etc. There was at one time a special tool to do this but it has long since been discontinued. How can I remove the clutch and not harm the saw in any way? I've seen people say to use a screwdriver and tap it with a hammer, but I would rather not. The best possible scenario would be to buy the actual clutch removal spanner wrench (A-23696-A). If not, what advice can you guys give? FYI its the 6-shoe clutch.
 
Hello Homelite fans. So I've got an XL924 and I would like to remove the clutch and replace/grease the bearing, rim, sprocket, etc. There was at one time a special tool to do this but it has long since been discontinued. How can I remove the clutch and not harm the saw in any way? I've seen people say to use a screwdriver and tap it with a hammer, but I would rather not. The best possible scenario would be to buy the actual clutch removal spanner wrench (A-23696-A). If not, what advice can you guys give? FYI its the 6-shoe clutch.

I have been using a M.F.H. (not a B.F.H. a medium size hammer) and a suitable punch to break the clutch loose on my Homies. So far, I havn't damaged anything.

Alternately, a length of 1/8"-1/4" rod heated and bent to a spanner wrench configuration should work. You will need to hold onto the flywheel so plan on chucking it up in your bench vise somehow. A 3/8" wood dowel rod in the exhaust port works fine.
 
Second pair of twins.

Progress has been slow on my second pair of XL-100 type of twins. I've got to stop painting thease darn things as the paint dry time is so long.
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Various parts (recoil cover and clutch covers) are drying so we can handle them.

We are short a muffler and a wrap handle that fits.

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Maybe if we used 3/4" heater hose insted of the garden hose it would reach.
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A pair of serviceable SDC Walbros is next.
 
XL-101 buyers guide.

Watch out for the very early 101's as they have a glued fuel tank cover prone to leaking.

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Early on the left. Note the lack of cap screw bosses next to the bumper spike rib.

Also note the increase in width (11/16") for the automatic oiler pump and the attendent gain in weight. You pays for your deluxe features.

With the increase in width and weight you are better off with a SXL.
 
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Who has a source for the offset style rubber pull rope handles for medium to large saws?

I find them more comfortable than the typical 'T' handle.

Good question Carl. I have those on a couple Homelites, and would like to have more. The most comfortable Homelite handle for me is the somewhat ugly looking large soft "T" handle found on the mid-70s and later Homelites. They have some give in them, but sure don't look that good on a saw. They are similar to what I've seen on many 70's and 80's snowmobiles.

Here's an Acres listing for a late Homelite SXL-AO. You can see the 'comfy' handle I'm talking about. I've seen it on late SXL925 and S-1050 saws too.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...47f8f0b8e0bc41ef88256c260048d87a?OpenDocument

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...ac955814c40922b988256c260048fd18?OpenDocument
 
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Walbro SDC

I found three Walbro SDC Homelite #65386 check valve repair kits on evilbay. Coincidently I have three carbs. that the check valve is blown out/buggered (long story).

Any tips or tricks to install the tiny suckers?

I just got my new lense perscription the other day and can see much better. I know that will help.
 
I bought a used saw that has a 72 drive link 1/4" pitch, .050 gauge, semi chisel chain. There is not a number on the drive link but a few tiestraps have a letter 'K' and the remainder have the number '16' . The woman at Oregon technical services told me it was Homelite chain, does anyone have a Homelite chain guide or information? Thank you, Scott
 
Looking to see if any of you Homelite boys have seen an XL Automatic gear drive saw. Think it's labeled as XLAOG, heard of them out there, any proof?

Think Wildman had one!
I have seen a couple on ebay, well 2 that were around $150 to 250.
Don't think they sold.

Also there is some talk about them, even some repair jobs on the eternals I saw on google search.
 
Bill G. had one for sale ages ago on CSCF. Here's the link to his for sale thread. There's a pic of the drive side of the saw still in the listing.


Edit:

The AS system censored out the link. Bill doesn't want his pics cut and pasted without permission, so you'll just have to go to CSCF and find the XL15 gear drive listing in his for sale section...
 
Got another runner.

Got one of the red/black auto-oiler twins running and cutting.

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Cuts real good at W.O.T. and idles good after a long warm up. auto-oiler is working.

Part throttle has a Poppity, Poppity, Poppity like a intermitent electrical short but it ain't unless we have some oil on the contact points. Plug looked real good (CJ8) after a long cut and quick shut down.

His twin is still in intensive care needing a carb. and a muffler and an air cleaner cover nut.

This: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/184699.htm Has been in the incubation stage for a long time.
 
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I resurrected an XL-101 today and was surprised to see what a runner it is.
Needs clutch work though.
Anyone know where a guy would find the clutch removal tool for one of these?


Mike
 
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