Homelite Chainsaws

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Easy Jeffus. Since I was posting your own pic in response to your continued irrational rants about all things IHC.........................I figured you'd have something cheeky to say about it. Was "putting one right accross the plate" for you. A gift or freebie as it were. Instead you just got all Mr Grumpus on me....:msp_unsure:

See, Aaron, theres the problem. I'm joshing about the ih, and yous red tinted glasses guys take the bait like a hungry red snapper. IH's to me are like Minimac's or 150's, I truly pity them that insist on working on them. Not cause they didn't work well or anything else, they hold no value to me. But thats me. As far as being Mr Grumpus, when I gets grumpy it goes from thread to thread, and we've been several places together today, and I've never mentioned it. Now go get that 26lcs so I know where to get parts...I'll buy it, eventually, someday, later...
 
See, Aaron, theres the problem. I'm joshing about the ih, and yous red tinted glasses guys take the bait like a hungry red snapper. IH's to me are like Minimac's or 150's, I truly pity them that insist on working on them. Not cause they didn't work well or anything else, they hold no value to me. But thats me. As far as being Mr Grumpus, when I gets grumpy it goes from thread to thread, and we've been several places together today, and I've never mentioned it. Now go get that 26lcs so I know where to get parts...I'll buy it, eventually, someday, later...

Take the bait? All I did was post a couple pics. Just 'joshin' back. You grumped on me for not saying where I got the pic. Putting your own IHC pic up after more Anti-IHC joshin' on your part was again 'joshin' back'....:msp_unsure:

I doubt you want that 26LCS for the bargain price of $500, which is what that yahoo has been listing it for. If I can get it for 1/10th of that or less, I'll get it for you. I doubt it's going anywhere fast. You have one that needs parts? I'll bet Ric (Sawbones) has parts for those and/or a whole parts saw.
 
Yup, you have heard that before. And, here is another one.

Starts and runs fine when cold but after the first or second long cut and start another it falls on its' face. Craps out at operating temperature it seems.

Powerhead completely rebuilt. New rings, seals, bearing on flywheel side. Compression is "O.M.G. we need a 'D' handle". Conventional Wico magneto. Filed, honed and polished the points. Checked them again for gap or oil on contact surfaces. Carb. has been gone thru twice. Raised the metering lever half a tad the last time. New fuel line with the large filter. Tried it with a full fuel tank and down to a 1/4 tank. Changed the plug from a used RCJ7Y to a new CJ6. Tried the H jet 1/4 turn richer and 1/4 turn leaner from best WOT 'four stroking'. Fuel lid has new duckbill & filter. New wire core plug wire

I think it has an ignition problem but what? Coil? Condenser?

Try a different kill switch next.

Is it failing to start after it dies until it cools down? Hard to start after is dies out? Sounds like coil to me, that's about the only thing left to replace.
 
I'm thinking someone had a wild ride on an IHC and/or an AC with poorly maintained brakes some time in the past. Maybe one ran over his shiney green JD pedal tractor when he was a lad....:D
 
Is it failing to start after it dies until it cools down? Hard to start after is dies out? Sounds like coil to me, that's about the only thing left to replace.

No.

Dies out cutting so I just lift it and you can bring the revs. back up. If I dies, then I have to choke it a bit to restart.

It is easy to restart. Don't sound like an actual miss. No popping and cracking.

I think I will try it with the carb. pig rich once. But, my pulling arm is done for today.
 
No.

Dies out cutting so I just lift it and you can bring the revs. back up. If I dies, then I have to choke it a bit to restart.

It is easy to restart. Don't sound like an actual miss. No popping and cracking.

I think I will try it with the carb. pig rich once. But, my pulling arm is done for today.

It may need to be richer or it's possible it's not getting enough fuel, there's a difference..
 
Fuel line new and filter...try loosening the cap a tad, the duckbill may not be correct. Make sure the carb gasket is lined up with the impulse hole exactly. Lastly, I'd replace the condenser. What is the gap set at?
 
When you did the carb and had both sides off and the metering needle out, could you look thru the hole and see light? Run a small bread tie wrapper down the hole. Use your thumb and remove the plastic and run it thru. Should be able to hold it up to a light and look right thru the middle. I have seen them a little restricted before and cleaning it made the difference!
 
It may need to be richer or it's possible it's not getting enough fuel, there's a difference..

The more I think it over it is running out of fuel.

Fuel line new and filter...try loosening the cap a tad, the duckbill may not be correct. Make sure the carb gasket is lined up with the impulse hole exactly. Lastly, I'd replace the condenser. What is the gap set at?

Did the cap thing. Points are set a loose .015". Next time I have the carb. out I'll double check the impulse passage.

When you did the carb and had both sides off and the metering needle out, could you look thru the hole and see light? Run a small bread tie wrapper down the hole. Use your thumb and remove the plastic and run it thru. Should be able to hold it up to a light and look right thru the middle. I have seen them a little restricted before and cleaning it made the difference!

Good point. Ethanol in the fuel ruined the carb. on a lawnmower a guy gave me. Had to run a drill bit up the main metering jet to clean out the corrosion.

If it were a spark problem you would get popping and cracking but this thing just dies out.
 
You did say it was four stroking?

Going to give it a try with the high speed jet open a half more turn. Esentialy set it really 'blubbery' rich. Book calls for initial one turn and I've only gone 1/4 turn plus or minus.

I do have a couple excellent SDC's for XL-101 types that I can try but I'm sure the venturi diameter is bigger on the 800's. Would be interesting experiment anyway.
 
Going to give it a try with the high speed jet open a half more turn. Esentialy set it really 'blubbery' rich. Book calls for initial one turn and I've only gone 1/4 turn plus or minus.

I do have a couple excellent SDC's for XL-101 types that I can try but I'm sure the venturi diameter is bigger on the 800's. Would be interesting experiment anyway.

Still think you may have a blockage somewhere in the system. I once had a Homelite Zip that did that, I looked it over and the fuel line had a kink in it, slowing down the flow. Carb could also have a passage blocked in it or something like that.
 
Here is one for the Homelite geardrive fans:

I started pulling down another 990G I have had for a while - this machine is in great mechanical condition, and appeared to have not been dismantled before. I was pleased to find the 'std' 2.84: 1 reduction gear set in this machine as opposed to the 'optional' 3.57: 1 ratio. This is the first of this series in my collection that I have found with the std ratio. Every other saw I have rebuilt has had the 3.57: 1 gear train. I believe that this is due to the fact that all of these saws have come from the large timber areas of the US - California, Oregon, and Washington, and thereby requiring the use of long bars.

Here is a photo of the gearcase showing the idler in the lower gear case position, and therefore denoting the 2.84: 1 ratio.

Chris.

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.404 semi chizel on 20" bar too much for a C5 clutch?

I find it very easy to stall out the chain on my C5 in my ceder test log. Weak clutch? Bar/chain too tight maybe?

Engine is running great and it makes gerbil bedding at a good clip.

Carl.
 
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.404 semi chizel on 20" bar too much for a C5 clutch?

I fined it very easy to stall out the chain on my C5 in my ceder test log. Weak clutch? Bar/chain too tight maybe?

Engine is running great and it makes gerbil bedding at a good clip.

Carl.

My C-5 has no problem pulling a 21" hardnose running a loop of Oregon 27 .404 semi-chisel burried in oak. The C-5 I sent to Jeffus had no problem running the 26" hardnose (and loop of Oregon 27) that I had on it for a while, although I don't recall ever completely burrying it. Something's wrong Carl. I can't remember what the compression reading was on your saw. Maybe the clutch shoes are toast.

You're running a hardnose correct? Make sure the chain is adjusted (when COLD) so that there's a bit of a gap between the sideplates and the bar rail at the middle of the botttom of the bar. Adjust it so the chain just looses contact at that point. Don't adjust it to that point when it's hot, or it will tighten up too much when the chain cools again. A longer bar requires more of a gap at the center side plates. 20" doesn't need too much with .404 IME. Is your oiler working well?
 

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