Fedaburger
ArboristSite Operative
Hey eccentric how do I keep the gas and oil caps from leaking on 1975 super ez auto. I tried o rings do I need thicker o rings or just get new cork gaskets?
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The oil cap will probably be fixed with a new cork gasket, or a thick o-ring in place of the old gasket.
The gas cap probably has a deteriorated 'duckbill' check valve. Find the sintered bronze 'filter' in one of the 'flats' of the cap body. There's a groove on the underside of the cap. Use a pick to pry the filter out. Clean the rubber goo (that was once a duckbill valve) off of the back side of the filter and out of the pocket in the cap. Get it all out. Seat a new duckbill in the cap pocket (Homelite #69451, available from Oregon and Stens dealers), then press the filter back into the cap. Put on a new cork gasket or thick gas resistant o-ring if needed, and you are back in business.
Fedaburger
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks eccentric u r the homelite go to guy. I can't wait to find another. I love how this thing sounds like an old dirtbike. I can only imagine how the big boys sound like. 
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Thanks eccentric u r the homelite go to guy. I can't wait to find another. I love how this thing sounds like an old dirtbike. I can only imagine how the big boys sound like.
You're welcome. Glad to hear you're gonna get more. There are other guys here who know far more about Homelites than me BTW....
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The 450 and 550 look identical to me (and the parts on the IPL's look identical). Both have the same fuel tanks, flywheel/clutch/AF covers, rear handles, and trigger/throttle lock parts. Better measure the bore. The number tag pic is fuzzy. Is that a "Lot" number instead of a "UT" number? If so, that makes me lean towards 450. My 450 IPL doesn't list a UT number, while my 550 IPL does.
Bore for the 550 will be 2.00". 450 bore will be 1.875".
Bore for the 550 will be 2.00". 450 bore will be 1.875".
Last edited:
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
thanks Aaron.
Wow, usually the clutch cover and the lower handle brace are the first things to break on those saws. Looks like both are intact on that one. Because of that, the saw should have significant value.
Aaron, a 450 has fixed H jet on the carb. A 550 has an adjustable H jet. The carbs can be swapped, but it probably has the original carb on it.
Aaron, a 450 has fixed H jet on the carb. A 550 has an adjustable H jet. The carbs can be swapped, but it probably has the original carb on it.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Couple of clues make this look like its a 450. First, it looks like (can't tell for certain though) the front cover has 4 bolts. Later 450s and 550s had 5 bolts, so if only 4, this points to an early version 450. Second, the boss on the fuel tank for the bar looks flat. This also points to being a 450 as all 550s had a rounded boss.
Dan
Dan
Good catch Dan. He is talking about the handlebar top mount on the tank. 450's had a flat mount, and the handlebar was squeezed flat to mate to it.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Ambull. Yea, after rereading, I should have said handlebar.... just "bar" can be a little bit ambiguous. :msp_razz: Ah, getting old is so good for the brain.
Dan
Dan
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Interesting. The carburetors are indeed two different part numbers in my 450 and 550 IPL's, and the illustrations do show the single needle carb on the 450 with the two needle on the 550.
The 450 IPL I have must be for a later saw, as the flywheel cover listed in it takes five screws, and is the same part number as the cover in my 550 IPL.
I also must have an early 550 IPL, because the fuel/oil tank assembly is the same part number as what's listed in my 450 IPL. #12395-3B. In both IPL's the handlebar boss is flat. The part numbers for the handlebars are the same (both flushcut and full wrap) in my 450 and 550 IPL's too. That means at least some 550's had the flat handlebar boss on the tank. My 550 IPL is #17151 and is specified for 550's with UT#'s of 10458, 10497, 10498, and 10636. I got this IPL from K&T Parts House. I got my 450 IPL from somebody else long ago. It didn't specifiy a UT#. Looking at the K&T PH index, I see that they have the same 450 IPL (#24897 Rev-1), but it DOES specify UT#s. They are 10425 and 10426.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hom...w-Parts-Manual-For-550-Chain-Saw-UT-10458.pdf
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hom...w-Parts-Manual-For-450-Chain-Saw-UT-10425.pdf
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
Last edited:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
One other thing I just noticed while looking at the IPL's............the non-CB type clutch covers (like what's on Fraser's saw) have the side access chain adjuster (take that Stihl), while the CB-type clutch cover (which I've never seen in person) has a 'conventional' front access bar tensioner screw setup.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
In the IPLs I have, the original 450 tank is 12395-3...... no letter after the -3. The Rev 1 450 and the 550 IPLs show with the -3B. I tried to look on a couple tanks to see if a number was on them, but couldn't locate it. Not 100% sure, but I've went on the assumption that only the early 450 used the tank with the flat boss. Always new stuff to learn about these things.
Dan
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
where do you find some id on this looked, but prob blind.
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
Actually, that rear handle (and ignition switch location), top cover, recoil, wrap handle, and muffler all say that saw is either a 909 or a 990. However, it is quite easy to interchange all the above-mentioned parts.
Love the plumber's tape. Almost as awesome as my JBwelded AND plumber's taped Pioneer 750 recoil and flywheel.
Chris B.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Does it have a round or rectangular air filter element? My IPL shows the round element being used on the 9-23 and 900D, with the rectanglular setup being used for the later saws. The wrap handle and muffler look the same as what's on my 900D. The kill switch is in the later saw possition as Chris stated. The ID plate would have been on the fiywheel cover. I can see the rivot holes for your missing ID plate. Many old Homelites are missing that plate. Not sure why. Maybe guys swiped them from their employers and ditched the MN/SN plate to obscure the saws's origins. Every 6 cube and over Homelite that I've got (except for my 900D) is missing the plate. So far that's a 1050A, two XP1020's, and an XP1130. Here's a shot of my 900D ID plate.
Here's my 900D top cover. You can see the kill switch up on the left side of the cover.
You can see my wrap handle here.
Here's my 900D top cover. You can see the kill switch up on the left side of the cover.
You can see my wrap handle here.
Last edited:
One other thing I noticed: that saw has the lower cylinder heat shield that attaches to 3 of the 4 base studs. That was standard on the 909 and up, could be retrofit to the early saws.
The correct muffler for the 9-23/36 and 900s would have been the big cast aluminum sucker. When parts stocks ran out, Homelite would have substituted the replacement that is currently on the saw. The old muffler isn't even listed in the IPL, you have to dig thru the notes at the back to find the original part #s. I know my 900G had some goofy little four bolt muffler, have no idea what it came off of. I was fortunate to stumble onto to a pair of the old mufflers to complete my saws.
Looking thru the chrome vent on the top cover it looks like there are some vertical lines which would make it the later-style filter. The round filter would, obviously appear round and a low enough camera angle on that particular shot and you could straight thru the housing. Like all things in that series, it could have been retrofit. The most important thing to check is the bore. 2 3/16" versus 2 5/16"
Chris B.
The correct muffler for the 9-23/36 and 900s would have been the big cast aluminum sucker. When parts stocks ran out, Homelite would have substituted the replacement that is currently on the saw. The old muffler isn't even listed in the IPL, you have to dig thru the notes at the back to find the original part #s. I know my 900G had some goofy little four bolt muffler, have no idea what it came off of. I was fortunate to stumble onto to a pair of the old mufflers to complete my saws.
Looking thru the chrome vent on the top cover it looks like there are some vertical lines which would make it the later-style filter. The round filter would, obviously appear round and a low enough camera angle on that particular shot and you could straight thru the housing. Like all things in that series, it could have been retrofit. The most important thing to check is the bore. 2 3/16" versus 2 5/16"
Chris B.
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
I finally got back to my XP1020 (now confirmed as a 1020 by the roller starter, XP confirmed by 2 3/16" bore.
I was going to swap a C-91 muffler on it, as mine is rotted out, but after disassembly, the XP muffler is a lot bigger with a lot more opening. The C series will bolt on, but it'll be a lot more restricted. Here's a shot of both mufflers and hardware, XP is on the right. Note the C-series has 1 bolt bigger, I suspect stripped and rethreaded at some point in it's life.
Also both saws have an identical score line directly across from the exhaust bridge. I don't think it's serious, as I couldn't feel it with a nail tip, and the 1020 has hellacious compression, not sure on the 91, recoil is broke, and I had the xp back together before I pulled that recoil off or I'd have tried it. What do you guys think? Here's a pic of the 91, pic of the same on the xp cylinder didn't turn out too well.
I'm gonna grab another 10-24 x 2 1/2 bolt on the way to work and put the C muffler on for now, but if anyone has an extra XP muffler laying around, let me know and we can play lets make a deal.
With a little luck and some file time on the .404 chain, you'll see a video tomorrow.
I was going to swap a C-91 muffler on it, as mine is rotted out, but after disassembly, the XP muffler is a lot bigger with a lot more opening. The C series will bolt on, but it'll be a lot more restricted. Here's a shot of both mufflers and hardware, XP is on the right. Note the C-series has 1 bolt bigger, I suspect stripped and rethreaded at some point in it's life.
Also both saws have an identical score line directly across from the exhaust bridge. I don't think it's serious, as I couldn't feel it with a nail tip, and the 1020 has hellacious compression, not sure on the 91, recoil is broke, and I had the xp back together before I pulled that recoil off or I'd have tried it. What do you guys think? Here's a pic of the 91, pic of the same on the xp cylinder didn't turn out too well.
I'm gonna grab another 10-24 x 2 1/2 bolt on the way to work and put the C muffler on for now, but if anyone has an extra XP muffler laying around, let me know and we can play lets make a deal.
With a little luck and some file time on the .404 chain, you'll see a video tomorrow.
