Homelite Chainsaws

[Eccentric]

If that saw has the overrunning bearing starter (bearing in the pully, 'tube' extension mounted to the flywheel) then the saw is an XP1000 rather than an XP1020. The XP1020 will have the 'two pawls on the flywheel' starter as seen on a Homelite 1050, or many of the smaller Macs such as an SXL-925 or XL-12. Also, if your cylinder doesn't have the mounting bolt boss for a third muffler bolt (inside the can......towards the rear of the saw) then this again points to an XP1000. Still a 6.1ci/100cc Homelite.

That light scratch looks like 'carbon scoring'. There's a chunka carbon in the exhaust port that's 'growing' towards the center of the cylinder and starting to scratch the piston. You can CAREFULLY break that sucker out with a popsicle stick or other non-maring tool. Wood or plastic...................NO metal. You can soften that carbon by wetting it with something like Chevron concentrated injector cleaner (little blue bottle that you're supposed to poor into your gas tank) and letting it sit for a while.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Thanks Aaron I was backwards on which starter went with which model.

The score is on the opposite side, 180* from the bridge on the exhaust port?
Its on the cylinder not the piston. Sorry if I was unclear on that.

 

[Hedgerow]

Thanks Aaron I was backwards on which starter went with which model.

The score is on the opposite side, 180* from the bridge on the exhaust port?
Its on the cylinder not the piston. Sorry if I was unclear on that.

Naaa... I saw it just fine... Aaron is a little cross eyed...
:Eye::Eye::Eye:

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks Aaron I was backwards on which starter went with which model.

The score is on the opposite side, 180* from the bridge on the exhaust port?
Its on the cylinder not the piston. Sorry if I was unclear on that.

Oops. Looking back at it I can see what you mean. Thought it was on the piston....:msp_unsure:

Naaa... I saw it just fine... Aaron is a little cross eyed...
:Eye::Eye::Eye:

Quiet you!

 

[lesorubcheek]

If that saw has the overrunning bearing starter (bearing in the pully, 'tube' extension mounted to the flywheel) then the saw is an XP1000 rather than an XP1020. The XP1020 will have the 'two pawls on the flywheel' starter as seen on a Homelite 1050, or many of the smaller Macs such as an SXL-925 or XL-12.

Actually Aaron, according to some notes, the early XP1020 also used the overrunning bearing starter setup. Says units below 2359238 used the overrunning bearing type with later units going to the more conventional pawls. Just another little thing to add confusion when trying to identify these things.

Dan

 

[lesorubcheek]

Usually that Homelite would stir the blood, but is that a 111 sitting behind there! Wait a minute, I see two silver top saws now.... Gotta stop watching cartoons on TV at the same time I'm trying to catch up here. Not too much into J-reds, but do like the silver top ones a bit... and they are red, so that makes it legal.

Dan

 

[CM76]

One other thing I noticed: that saw has the lower cylinder heat shield that attaches to 3 of the 4 base studs. That was standard on the 909 and up, could be retrofit to the early saws.

The correct muffler for the 9-23/36 and 900s would have been the big cast aluminum sucker. When parts stocks ran out, Homelite would have substituted the replacement that is currently on the saw. The old muffler isn't even listed in the IPL, you have to dig thru the notes at the back to find the original part #s. I know my 900G had some goofy little four bolt muffler, have no idea what it came off of. I was fortunate to stumble onto to a pair of the old mufflers to complete my saws.

Looking thru the chrome vent on the top cover it looks like there are some vertical lines which would make it the later-style filter. The round filter would, obviously appear round and a low enough camera angle on that particular shot and you could straight thru the housing. Like all things in that series, it could have been retrofit. The most important thing to check is the bore. 2 3/16" versus 2 5/16"

Chris B.

Good info Chris.
The saw also has the later style wrap handle applicable to the 909/990 saws which is not an almost continuous 'loop' as used on the 9-23/26 - 900G/D machines.
The old style mufflers are listed in the saw specific IPL's, but not in the generic IPL which covers the whole range.

Chris.

 

[redheadwoodshed]

Howdy Homelite folks.I just dropped in to see if any of you guys might need a Wiz 55, complete except for the spark plug cover.The saw has been sitting up for a LONG time and is locked up.If any of you guys are building one and need some parts or the whole saw, let me know.It can come your way for the shipping.I would like to see it go to a good home that might make it run or use parts to make another one run.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Here's the promised video of my XP1000 getting some cutting done. I think I got the tune close, clue me in if I'm off. The chain is .404 semi chisel that I gave a touchup to with the file, but the rakers need to come down quite a bit. I'll work on that when I get some more time.

[video=youtube;kZwsxt3vp1Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZwsxt3vp1Q&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Having trouble with embedding for some reason. If it doesn't work, go here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZwsxt3vp1Q&feature=youtu.be

Here's the 91 muffler mounted on it. I did use the XP baffle that's more open, but I'm still looking for an XP muffler. Once I get a list of my wants/needs for this saw, I'll post it on the old mag swap thread.

Here's my best leaky gas cap, which duckbill do I need for this one?

Thanks for the help getting this far guys, and hope you enjoy the vid. Sorry for the tinny sound, it's an old camera and doesn't do the bark of this thing any justice at all.

 

[Eccentric]

Good info Chris.
The saw also has the later style wrap handle applicable to the 909/990 saws which is not an almost continuous 'loop' as used on the 9-23/26 - 900G/D machines.
The old style mufflers are listed in the saw specific IPL's, but not in the generic IPL which covers the whole range.

Chris.

Good info from the Chris twins as always. During a phone conversation with me (while he was in his shop), Fraser discovered that both his 9-series Homelite scores are 990D's. They have the rectangular air filters, and I believe he found "990D" under the grime on both clutch covers.

Here's the promised video of my XP1000 getting some cutting done. I think I got the tune close, clue me in if I'm off. The chain is .404 semi chisel that I gave a touchup to with the file, but the rakers need to come down quite a bit. I'll work on that when I get some more time.



Having trouble with embedding for some reason. If it doesn't work, go here:


Here's the 91 muffler mounted on it. I did use the XP baffle that's more open, but I'm still looking for an XP muffler. Once I get a list of my wants/needs for this saw, I'll post it on the old mag swap thread.



Here's my best leaky gas cap, which duckbill do I need for this one?



Thanks for the help getting this far guys, and hope you enjoy the vid. Sorry for the tinny sound, it's an old camera and doesn't do the bark of this thing any justice at all.

Glad you got it going Steve. That cap takes the 'dime sized' flat slit rubber valve that was at one time glued into the recess just inside of the bottom of the cap. That valve is no longer available. Good news is that it's probably hiding in the bottom of your tank. That's where they end up when the glue dissolves. It's a rubber disc within a metal frame (frame is somewhat similar to the metal ring around a crank seal........but smaller. The rubber disc has a slit cut into the middle of it that lets air come through when there's enough 'vacuum' in the tank. Just went down to the shop and shot a few pics of some Homelite caps. See my next post....

 

[Eccentric]

Old Homelite Fuel Caps

This cap on the far left will accept the large flat 'dime size' slit rubber valve, and looks like it'll also take the bronze filter with a 69451 duckbill within (and possibly the brass 'tube' with duckbill).

The second cap from the left is a weird one. I took it off of an EARLY Super XL-12 that I just parted out (extreme corrosion, but many good parts including a good P/C). It has the 'dime size' flat valve recessed deep inside of the body. Never seen one of those before.

The next cap (third from the left) has the 'dime' valve set into the recess at the bottom. It could be the same cap casting as the first one on the left. I've not taken the valve out of it to check. It could also be like Steve's cap that will only take the 'dime' valve (although those could possibly be drilled to accept the bronze filter or tube with the common/available 69451 duckbill).

The fourth cap from the left is an old metal cap from a Super Wiz 77 gear drive. It has the 'dime' valve set in the mouth of the bottom of the cap like the plastic caps, but retains the valve with three screws. Much more possitive than the glue. I've had to reglue a few of the 'dime valve' plastic caps...

This cap on the far right is the latest style, and was on my 1050A. Has the bronze 'filter' which is an easy press fit/removal. Inside the bronze filter is the common/available 69451 duckbill. This cap does NOT have the shelf for the 'dime' valve at the mouth of the bottom of the cap.

The second cap from the right has the bronze/brass 'tube' with a 69451 duckbill within (the duckbill is melted here.....otherwise you could see the duckbill peeking out). That tube is IN THERE good. I've mangled the tube in another cap like this trying to remove it (with no luck). I'm hoping I can get 'serious' with that tube and successfully remove it (without damaging the plastic cap) and can then replace the tube with a bronze filter (sourced from Joyce the Chainsawlady) and install a good 69451 duckbill within. You can also see the shelf for a 'dime' valve in the mouth of the bottom of this cap (like the cap on the far left of my first pic above).

I have at least three of these 'tube' caps, a couple of the 'filter' ones, and a bunch of the 'dime' caps. One thing to mention with all of these caps. They have a tiny passage from the center of the underside of the cap through to a 'pinhole' in the underside of one of the grasping points. This pinhole is visible on the top edge of the far right cap at about 12:30. Make sure you blow that passage clear before reassembling the cap and putting it on the saw. If that passage isn't clear, the tank will 'vacuum lock' and starve for fuel. Happened with my 1050A. Dang thing would starve out less than 30 seconds after I tightened the cap. Took the cap back apart and cleared the passage and all is fine....

Not pictured is the 'hex' caps as used on most of the later XL-12/SXL/XL900 series, 150, E-Z series, and XL-100 series saws. I think folks already 'know' that cap, with it's bronze filter in one of the 'flats' of the hex, with a 69451 duckbill underneath in a pocket within the cap. I can picture one of those (with the filter and duckbill removed) if anyone needs to see it. That will have to wait a bit, as it's time for me to SSS and go to work.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Screws and choke if you want them.

Arrived today. Thanks a bunch, Cliff.

 

[corsair4360]

XP1000 Video

Steve;

That saw sounds a little fat to me, and or the chain needs lots of help. I had an XP1000 with a 404 chain and a 30" bar many years ago, I wish I still had it. I had the rakers set at 0.035" and in oak, or pine (dry or just falled) it would pull big chips and I could lean on it with the dogs and it would just keep going. I think I eventually got to 0.040" rakers and it would just keep going with the bar buried. However it would use about 3 gallons of gas in a 8+ hour day working it hard falling and bucking as I recall. A colleague at work finally talked me out of it, after I helped him cut firewood with it.

Sorry I know nothing about the gas caps for those saws.

I had lots of long days on that monster, and had some good times on the deck at the mill with it surprising the mill hands that a young forester knew his way around a saw and how to sharpen it.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Thanks Aaron for the collegiate level course in Homey fuel caps. I'll drain the tank and look for the duckbill next chance I get. What glue does a guy use to hold it in place if I find it?

Corsair, the chain's definitely not right yet. I just gave it a quick 5 minute touch up. When I get more time, I'll put it on the grinder and make it right. It might not be soon, but sometime in the next month. This saw's going for a ride with me over to Suring for Specter29's GTG, along with the usual band of Dolmars and whatever McCs, Olys, and Homeys I can get to run before then, so it's gotta get done by then. When I get it good and sharp, I'll time another cut through the jig with similar wood.

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks Aaron for the collegiate level course in Homey fuel caps. I'll drain the tank and look for the duckbill next chance I get. What glue does a guy use to hold it in place if I find it?

Corsair, the chain's definitely not right yet. I just gave it a quick 5 minute touch up. When I get more time, I'll put it on the grinder and make it right. It might not be soon, but sometime in the next month. This saw's going for a ride with me over to Suring for Specter29's GTG, along with the usual band of Dolmars and whatever McCs, Olys, and Homeys I can get to run before then, so it's gotta get done by then. When I get it good and sharp, I'll time another cut through the jig with similar wood.

LOL. Been about 4-5 years since I reglued one. I think I used some JB Weld. Seems to be holding (did two or three of 'em in 2007 or 2008). I think I'll use some Threebond 1194 (Hondabond-4) on the next one I do. The key is to get the oil residue off of the cap and the metal ring of the 'dime' valve. IIRC I scuffed the mating surfaces with some 1000 grit paper and wiped things clean with some alcohol on a shop towell. Make sure you give it some time to cure before putting it into service. Bet it'll be ratling around in the tank when you drain it. You can lift it with a remote mechanic's magnet, as the metal ring on the valve is steel.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanks Aaron for the collegiate level course in Homey fuel caps. I'll drain the tank and look for the duckbill next chance I get. What glue does a guy use to hold it in place if I find it?

Corsair, the chain's definitely not right yet. I just gave it a quick 5 minute touch up. When I get more time, I'll put it on the grinder and make it right. It might not be soon, but sometime in the next month. This saw's going for a ride with me over to Suring for Specter29's GTG, along with the usual band of Dolmars and whatever McCs, Olys, and Homeys I can get to run before then, so it's gotta get done by then. When I get it good and sharp, I'll time another cut through the jig with similar wood.

The little bronze piece holds it in place, no glue needed.

 

[Eccentric]

The little bronze piece holds it in place, no glue needed.

We're not talking about the bronze filter thingee here. When I talked about the bronze filter, I stated that it was an easy press fit (like you said). The glue is needed for the flat rubber disc 'dime' type valve. It is a flat rubber disc with a flanged steel frame. Sits into a recess in the mouth of some of the old Homelite caps (like Steve's). I think the confusion here comes from Steve stating he was going to look for the 'duckbill' valve in his tank...............when his cap didn't have a duckbill valve.......it had a flat rubber 'dime' type valve.

Here's Steve's cap. Notice that there's a recess for the large 'dime' type valve at the opening, but no recess in the center hole for the bronze filter or tube type setups with the little duckbill valve. His cap can only use the 'dime' valve, unless he's able to drill a pocket in the center hole to accept a bronze filter (which is a press fit) and a 69451 duckbill.

Look at the cap on the far left of this pic. You can see the recess in the center hole that would accept the bronze filter or tube with a 69451 duckbill. Steve's cap may be able to be drilled to match this cap (assuming the 40+ year old plastic doesn't crack/chip/shatter when being drilled).

The third cap from the left in this pic shoes the flat rubber 'dime' valve seated in its recess.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

We're not talking about the bronze filter thingee here. When I talked about the bronze filter, I stated that it was an easy press fit (like you said). The glue is needed for the flat rubber disc 'dime' type valve. It is a flat rubber disc with a flanged steel frame. Sits into a recess in the mouth of some of the old Homelite caps (like Steve's). I think the confusion here comes from Steve stating he was going to look for the 'duckbill' valve in his tank...............when his cap didn't have a duckbill valve.......it had a flat rubber 'dime' type valve.

Here's Steve's cap. Notice that there's a recess for the large 'dime' type valve at the opening, but no recess in the center hole for the bronze filter or tube type setups with the little duckbill valve. His cap can only use the 'dime' valve, unless he's able to drill a pocket in the center hole to accept a bronze filter (which is a press fit) and a 69451 duckbill.

Look at the cap on the far left of this pic. You can see the recess in the center hole that would accept the bronze filter or tube with a 69451 duckbill. Steve's cap may be able to be drilled to match this cap (assuming the 40+ year old plastic doesn't crack/chip/shatter when being drilled).

The third cap from the left in this pic shoes the flat rubber 'dime' valve seated in its recess.

Yep, you're right, that's the older version. I should have read the entire piece instead of assuming we were still talking about the hexagon shaped caps. I did a couple of the hex caps this week, worked pretty well but still seemed to seep a little..

 

[67L36Driver]

Funny thing about fuel caps.

Picked up a Homelite 200 Classic today. (A Super 2 after the lawyers and politicians got done with him.) The fuel cap has a primer (purge?) bulb in him, not connected to anything. I can see, with a flashlight, a tube end down in the tank but it won't reach or stay attached to the bulb thingy.

Is a new fuel cap w/bulb available?

Got him running and first thing he did was puke bar oil all over my nice swatch of cardboard. I think someone filled the oil tank with fuel mix.

This one isn't in my Clymer book.

I still am unable to view/download the IPL's on Chainsawr. (Runtime Error)

 

[67L36Driver]

More Homelite 200

After sitting overnight with fuel the hose for the primer bulb softened up enuff to reconnect it with the bulb. What a hokey setup. Twisting on the fuel cap is shure to have it fall off again. Bulb is too old and brittle to trust using anyway.

Took my drillmotor and 1/8" bit to the muffler outlet holes. We'll see if it sounds more like a chainsaw instead of a leaf blower.:msp_w00t:

Found an IPL for him.

He is going in the first garage sale smokin'. Freakin' safety chain.:msp_rolleyes: