Homelite Chainsaws

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After sitting overnight with fuel the hose for the primer bulb softened up enuff to reconnect it with the bulb. What a hokey setup. Twisting on the fuel cap is shure to have it fall off again. Bulb is too old and brittle to trust using anyway.

Took my drillmotor and 1/8" bit to the muffler outlet holes. We'll see if it sounds more like a chainsaw instead of a leaf blower.:msp_w00t:

Found an IPL for him.

He is going in the first garage sale smokin'. Freakin' safety chain.:msp_rolleyes:

I've had a few of those saws come through here and the first thing I do to them is rip all that nonsense off of them. I usually put them back like the old Super 2 saws which I can assemble in my sleep. I assembled 2 Super 2s this week from spare parts laying around the shop. Primer bulb is bad enough but in the gas cap is unacceptable...IMO.
 
I'm looking for a owner's manual, service manual and an IPL for a Homelite 10618-A. I posted in the "Beg for Manuals" thread but with no response.
 
After sitting overnight with fuel the hose for the primer bulb softened up enuff to reconnect it with the bulb. What a hokey setup. Twisting on the fuel cap is shure to have it fall off again. Bulb is too old and brittle to trust using anyway.

Took my drillmotor and 1/8" bit to the muffler outlet holes. We'll see if it sounds more like a chainsaw instead of a leaf blower.:msp_w00t:

Found an IPL for him.

He is going in the first garage sale smokin'. Freakin' safety chain.:msp_rolleyes:

Carl I believe all that bulb in the cap does is pressurize the tank, forcing fuel through the fuel ine and purging some air out of the carb. Probably sucking bar oil from the tank into the crankcase through the oil tank impulse line. Do the usual and look for an AWOL duckbill valve on the end of the line in the tank (and the sintered bronze 'connector' laying in the tank because the line has melted).

I'm looking for a owner's manual, service manual and an IPL for a Homelite 10618-A. I posted in the "Beg for Manuals" thread but with no response.

It would have been MUCH easier to find your IPL if you'd stated the model # as well as the UT#. You have an XL Automatic with a UT# of 10618-A.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hom...Parts-Manual-For-XLW-Chain-Saw-UT-10618-A.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og
 
Dang it anyhow, go into work on a Saturday to make money, and wind up spending more - well extra gas money to take the truck (check chainsaw in a while to see why), and $27 for this:

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I was driving along, minding my own business, headed to work, when I saw "Sale Today" spray painted on an old barge wagon by the highway, and looked over to see an open pole shed and wagons with what looked like red tractor parts. I had to stop at that point. Turns out all the Farmall parts were B & C parts, and I don't have either one, so I asked if he had any old saws for sale.

He replied he hadn't planned on selling it, but he had one, dug under a tarp and pulled out a ZIP. We talked a bit, and settled on a 20 spot plus the $7 I had in my front pocket. I thought the floormat bar cover was pretty ingenious until I tried to get it off and the chain dug into it. Edit: whoops, no pics of it, other than just the edge of it. It's an old clear car floormat folded over and stapled shut. I guess it works, sorta.

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Not a bad looking ZIP, owner said it ran, just couldn't keep fuel in it - he thought bad diaphragm. Does this sound like a possiblilty or it a bad fuel line/fitting somewhere? I have 0 experience with a Brown carb, are parts available anywhere?
 
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The Brown kits are kinda scarce. Contact Ambull. IIRC he has some. Sugar Creek Supply may be making repops of the Brown diaphragms too. May just want to swap on a Tillotson HL from another Zip or similar Homelite so you can use a common RK-88HL or DG-5HL kit. I may have a spare laying around. I'm sure other guys do if I can't find one....

I do have a good used P/C for that saw if you find you need one. Fuel line setup is quite basic on these saws. Unscrew the large slotted head 'plug' in the bottom of the tank near the flywheel cover. This plug is actually the fitting that the in tank line/filter setup attaches to (pretty slick). While you have it out, make sure the hole(s) (I can't remember if there's one, or more than one hole) in the plug/fitting and the passage in the tank casting that leads from the plug/fitting to the elbow fitting that the carb line attaches to are all clear.

PM me your email address and I'll send you an IPL for your saw. Here's a link to a download of the 3rd Ed Shop Manual.

http://www.mediafire.com/?5o3oqnd76ee18r3
 
Hey Steve, I've got a box of parts for a red/green homie of the same vintage. Twas locked up, so pulled all the covers and tank flywheel ect. and boxed em up. I know there is a nice Brown ( i think) carby in there. It looks like you're missing the bottom cover under the carb. Pm me if you want stuff.
Nice looking zip you got. Pretty simple model to work on. My Ol' blue runs real good for a vintage saw, my Ez-6, is low on compression, so now its an ornament.
 
Hey Steve, I've got a box of parts for a red/green homie of the same vintage. Twas locked up, so pulled all the covers and tank flywheel ect. and boxed em up. I know there is a nice Brown ( i think) carby in there. It looks like you're missing the bottom cover under the carb. Pm me if you want stuff.
Nice looking zip you got. Pretty simple model to work on. My Ol' blue runs real good for a vintage saw, my Ez-6, is low on compression, so now its an ornament.

Thanks for the offer dieselsmoke. I'm not ready to work on this one yet, by the time I am, I'll likely have forgotten your offer, so I'll just post what I need here. :D
 
Super xl12 as opposed to xl12 etc

Thanks,

Lee:msp_smile:

There may be several things but one thing I noticed is the reed valves are different. Four petal reed on the Super and only one on the XL12.

In the context of XL-12's, "super" only means an increased bore....upping displacement from 55cc to 58cc. A Super XL-12 has a single flat reed and manual oiling. I just parted one out.

Now an SXL-AO (Super XL Automatic Oiling) has the larger bore, auto oil pump, and 4-petal pyramid reed setup. To further confuse things, there were XL-12 saws "with pyramid reed system". I have one, and also have an IPL for them. Smaller bore.....manual oiling.....and pyramid reed setup. Then there's the XL-Automatic and Super XL-Automatic saws.......which are different than the SXL-AO saws.....:D
 
thanks Eccentric

Thanks for the feedback. These are my Homelites.

Now have: 1-blue XL-12 runner
1-red XL auto runner
1-red XL auto non-runner
1-red XL1-AO runner
1-red Super Mini runner
Opps forgot;
1-red 300 classic (Solo too?)
1-red 47 (Solo 647)
Looking at picking up an XL923, what do you think?

Lee:msp_biggrin:
 
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In the context of XL-12's, "super" only means an increased bore....upping displacement from 55cc to 58cc. A Super XL-12 has a single flat reed and manual oiling. I just parted one out.

Now an SXL-AO (Super XL Automatic Oiling) has the larger bore, auto oil pump, and 4-petal pyramid reed setup. To further confuse things, there were XL-12 saws "with pyramid reed system". I have one, and also have an IPL for them. Smaller bore.....manual oiling.....and pyramid reed setup. Then there's the XL-Automatic and Super XL-Automatic saws.......which are different than the SXL-AO saws.....:D

Now I'm gonna have to go out in the garage and see what I have! I got to noticing that Homelite and Mac saws are made any way the manufacturer wants with about any parts they have on hand at the time. I don't notice it quite as much from Poulan.
 
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This cap on the far left will accept the large flat 'dime size' slit rubber valve, and looks like it'll also take the bronze filter with a 69451 duckbill within (and possibly the brass 'tube' with duckbill).

The second cap from the left is a weird one. I took it off of an EARLY Super XL-12 that I just parted out (extreme corrosion, but many good parts including a good P/C). It has the 'dime size' flat valve recessed deep inside of the body. Never seen one of those before.

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The next cap (third from the left) has the 'dime' valve set into the recess at the bottom. It could be the same cap casting as the first one on the left. I've not taken the valve out of it to check. It could also be like Steve's cap that will only take the 'dime' valve (although those could possibly be drilled to accept the bronze filter or tube with the common/available 69451 duckbill).

The fourth cap from the left is an old metal cap from a Super Wiz 77 gear drive. It has the 'dime' valve set in the mouth of the bottom of the cap like the plastic caps, but retains the valve with three screws. Much more possitive than the glue. I've had to reglue a few of the 'dime valve' plastic caps...

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This cap on the far right is the latest style, and was on my 1050A. Has the bronze 'filter' which is an easy press fit/removal. Inside the bronze filter is the common/available 69451 duckbill. This cap does NOT have the shelf for the 'dime' valve at the mouth of the bottom of the cap.

The second cap from the right has the bronze/brass 'tube' with a 69451 duckbill within (the duckbill is melted here.....otherwise you could see the duckbill peeking out). That tube is IN THERE good. I've mangled the tube in another cap like this trying to remove it (with no luck). I'm hoping I can get 'serious' with that tube and successfully remove it (without damaging the plastic cap) and can then replace the tube with a bronze filter (sourced from Joyce the Chainsawlady) and install a good 69451 duckbill within. You can also see the shelf for a 'dime' valve in the mouth of the bottom of this cap (like the cap on the far left of my first pic above).

I have at least three of these 'tube' caps, a couple of the 'filter' ones, and a bunch of the 'dime' caps. One thing to mention with all of these caps. They have a tiny passage from the center of the underside of the cap through to a 'pinhole' in the underside of one of the grasping points. This pinhole is visible on the top edge of the far right cap at about 12:30. Make sure you blow that passage clear before reassembling the cap and putting it on the saw. If that passage isn't clear, the tank will 'vacuum lock' and starve for fuel. Happened with my 1050A. Dang thing would starve out less than 30 seconds after I tightened the cap. Took the cap back apart and cleared the passage and all is fine....

Not pictured is the 'hex' caps as used on most of the later XL-12/SXL/XL900 series, 150, E-Z series, and XL-100 series saws. I think folks already 'know' that cap, with it's bronze filter in one of the 'flats' of the hex, with a 69451 duckbill underneath in a pocket within the cap. I can picture one of those (with the filter and duckbill removed) if anyone needs to see it. That will have to wait a bit, as it's time for me to SSS and go to work.

now i'm really confused. here're pix of the fuel cap off my C5. doesn't look like any of the caps in your pix. notice there is no penetration through the top of the cap for venting. so how does my C5 vent. the ipl shows the cap, relief valve, and gasket. i'm not seeing how a valve and my cap would work together. i know i need to get a gasket but what about the rest?

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