Homelite Chainsaws

[ChainLightning]

I believe it's a different piston.

You know anyone on here that could confirm that for sure? That guy who is selling them lives right down my road. I could grab that other one he has there for $5. Be a cheap fix and i'd have extra parts.

 

[ChainLightning]

I know most people cringe when they see a 150 but I kinda like them. I've liked them ever since they were new, just something about the looks of them. I usually keep one around so that people will stare when I'm cutting some wood and pull the 150 out of the truck. They have a couple of things about them that make them tricky to work on, but to me they're just like a Homelite Super 2...once you've done 500 of them the rest are easy. I'm almost sure I could put a Super 2 together blindfolded but not sure about the 150 yet.

I hear ya. I always thought they looked stupid in pictures, but once I seen one in person I thought that they looked cool and they have a nice feel to them. I looked at it and it did look very tough to work on. Looks like a XL mated with a Super EZ and the 150 was their product :msp_wink: And the Super 2/XL is very easy to work on. Just 2 screws on the handle bar, 4 on the case, unscrew the plug, 4 screws on the rewind, take off the throttle linkage, and unplug the switch and its all ready. Just sometimes that linkage is a pain to get back in. Iv'e bent one up so bad that I had to bust out the pliers, vise, and take another linkage off from another one to compair it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I hear ya. I always thought they looked stupid in pictures, but once I seen one in person I thought that they looked cool and they have a nice feel to them. I looked at it and it did look very tough to work on. Looks like a XL mated with a Super EZ and the 150 was their product :msp_wink: And the Super 2/XL is very easy to work on. Just 2 screws on the handle bar, 4 on the case, unscrew the plug, 4 screws on the rewind, take off the throttle linkage, and unplug the switch and its all ready. Just sometimes that linkage is a pain to get back in. Iv'e bent one up so bad that I had to bust out the pliers, vise, and take another linkage off from another one to compair it.

Not necessary to bend the linkage but I've done a few..the ends are slightly different on that linkage rod, just put it on as your pushing the engine in the case while holding it against the carb link. I'm not very good at describing it, I know.
The 150 to me is very similar to the Super 2 but slightly different procedure. If your working on the carb on the 150 it's a little tricky putting the choke rod back in but really not that bad. On the 150 I've learned not to remove anything you don't have to.
The 150 has a very thin crankshaft on the flywheel side and you have to take care removing the nut or you'll twist the crankshaft off, I've seen two like that, hope to never see another. Don't use an impact.

 

[Eccentric]

You know anyone on here that could confirm that for sure? That guy who is selling them lives right down my road. I could grab that other one he has there for $5. Be a cheap fix and i'd have extra parts.

The one 150 piston part # I have doesn't match any of the many S E-Z piston numbers I've seen.

 

[ChainLightning]

Not necessary to bend the linkage but I've done a few..the ends are slightly different on that linkage rod, just put it on as your pushing the engine in the case while holding it against the carb link. I'm not very good at describing it, I know.
The 150 to me is very similar to the Super 2 but slightly different procedure. If your working on the carb on the 150 it's a little tricky putting the choke rod back in but really not that bad. On the 150 I've learned not to remove anything you don't have to.
The 150 has a very thin crankshaft on the flywheel side and you have to take care removing the nut or you'll twist the crankshaft off, I've seen two like that, hope to never see another. Don't use an impact.

So do you know if you can use the piston from the 150 in the EZ? I know it's a lot of work, but I love doing stuff like that. Makes me feel like it is truly my saw when im done. And I always learn more by doing that. And ii'm always up for saving a dollar or two. I can't say I love saving a buck because I love to hunt.

 

[ChainLightning]

The one 150 piston part # I have doesn't match any of the many S E-Z piston numbers I've seen.

Hmmmm......It seem like if the rings would work, then the piston would. Maybe not tho...

 

[Eccentric]

Hmmmm......It seem like if the rings would work, then the piston would. Maybe not tho...

Piston is the same diameter, and the ring groove is the same width. The engine designs are quite different however. The S E-Z is a reed valve saw, while the 150 is a piston port design. Construction of the engines (and the whole saws) is quite different between the two as well.

 

[ChainLightning]

Piston is the same diameter, and the ring groove is the same width. The engine designs are quite different however. The S E-Z is a reed valve saw, while the 150 is a piston port design. Construction of the engines (and the whole saws) is quite different between the two as well.

I guess the pistons would be different then. Damn

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hmmmm......It seem like if the rings would work, then the piston would. Maybe not tho...

I can't remember if my EZs were reed valve engines or not. If they were then the piston would probably be a different design and wouldn't work well. Then there are other things like pin diameter, skirt length, pin height, etc. I couldn't find an IPL for the 150 that had part numbers so I couldn't tell. I think Aaron said the part numbers were different so I wouldn't try it in that case.

 

[paccity]

was down trying to get the 1020a started. damn that thing is hard to pull threw. thinking i'll check the points feels like the ign is to advanced . plus the loads of comp. gave up for a while to hot.

 

[ChainLightning]

I can't remember if my EZs were reed valve engines or not. If they were then the piston would probably be a different design and wouldn't work well. Then there are other things like pin diameter, skirt length, pin height, etc. I couldn't find an IPL for the 150 that had part numbers so I couldn't tell. I think Aaron said the part numbers were different so I wouldn't try it in that case.

Well I think I mite as well go buy that other one from him tomorrow. I'm always up for a challenge. should beable to get one of them 150s running. If I can rebuild a 330 then i'm sure I can handle one of these. Any tips? I will defiantly be careful with the shaft.

 

[Eccentric]

was down trying to get the 1020a started. damn that thing is hard to pull threw. thinking i'll check the points feels like the ign is to advanced . plus the loads of comp. gave up for a while to hot.

100cc with no comp release means they'll bite you if things aren't right (or you don't pull like you mean it). My 1050A bit me pretty good once. Make sure it's not badly flooded. An engine near hydro-lock will be hard to pull through too. Pull the plug, point the bar up, and pull 'er through a buncha times (with the choke and throttle wide open) to clear it.

 

[lesorubcheek]

The 150 has a very thin crankshaft on the flywheel side and you have to take care removing the nut or you'll twist the crankshaft off, I've seen two like that, hope to never see another. Don't use an impact.

Very true. I busted the end on one trying to use a puller to pop off a flywheel. The sprag clutch starter nut is left hand threads on these, so you need a left hand nut to run on the crank prior to putting alot of force with a puller on the end. I learned the hard way. I know its frowned upon but now I just pop them off using a wood block and a hammer.

Its for sure the 150 has its week spots, but heck, so does a 2100 or 750 for that matter. For a smaller homeowner type saw, they are well balanced with plenty of grunt. Get used to their slightly eccentric construction and repair is not difficult at all, just takes a little practice and patience.

Dan

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Well I think I mite as well go buy that other one from him tomorrow. I'm always up for a challenge. should beable to get one of them 150s running. If I can rebuild a 330 then i'm sure I can handle one of these. Any tips? I will defiantly be careful with the shaft.

If the saw is complete I would put a little fuel in the tank and slosh it around and dump it out. Then I would fill it up and try to start it. If it hasn't been used for awhile I would take the air filter off and put about 1/2 teaspoon of fuel in the carb and give it a try. You'd be surprised at all the "junk" saws I've bought that would start right up! While you have the fillter off you might check the fuel line and see if it's good. If not, you'll have to pull the saw apart to change it.

 

[ChainLightning]

If the saw is complete I would put a little fuel in the tank and slosh it around and dump it out. Then I would fill it up and try to start it. If it hasn't been used for awhile I would take the air filter off and put about 1/2 teaspoon of fuel in the carb and give it a try. You'd be surprised at all the "junk" saws I've bought that would start right up! While you have the fillter off you might check the fuel line and see if it's good. If not, you'll have to pull the saw apart to change it.

.Thanks. The one I bought to day did not have a plug in it. I put one in and it felt like good compression. Did not check for spark tho. Will have to mess with them when I get done cutting tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. BTW, is the flywheel nut a left hand thread?

 

[lesorubcheek]

One tip for working on 150s is to make sure to remove the two carb bolts before trying to pull the engine out from the housing. If you don't, you can break the manifold. Hardest thing for me working on a 150 is reattaching the throttle and choke linkages to the carb when putting it back into position.

Dan

 

[a. palmer jr.]

.Thanks. The one I bought to day did not have a plug in it. I put one in and it felt like good compression. Did not check for spark tho. Will have to mess with them when I get done cutting tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. BTW, is the flywheel nut a left hand thread?

I think in an earlier post Dan said it was left hand thread.

 

[ChainLightning]

One tip for working on 150s is to make sure to remove the two carb bolts before trying to pull the engine out from the housing. If you don't, you can break the manifold. Hardest thing for me working on a 150 is reattaching the throttle and choke linkages to the carb when putting it back into position.

Dan

just by looking at the choke control and where the carb is you can tell it looks like a pain to disassemble and reassemble haha.

 

[ChainLightning]

I think in an earlier post Dan said it was left hand thread.

I thought he said that for the clutch? not the flywheel?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

One tip for working on 150s is to make sure to remove the two carb bolts before trying to pull the engine out from the housing. If you don't, you can break the manifold. Hardest thing for me working on a 150 is reattaching the throttle and choke linkages to the carb when putting it back into position.

Dan

Yeah, kinda funny on this saw you don't put the carb on the engine, you put it on the case then put the engine in and try to get the thing to line up to put the carb mounting bolts in.