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I thought he said that for the clutch? not the flywheel?

He said "sprag clutch starter nut" which is the flywheel nut. The starter rod goes through the bearing in the nut to keep it aligned. You might not have to take it apart if you have spark. If you don't have to remove the big nut, don't! Even if you remove the engine it's not necessary to remove the flywheel nut.
 
I thought he said that for the clutch? not the flywheel?

Actually, they're both left handed. Na, I was talking about the flywheel side. There's a special nut that also has a sprag clutch or overrunning bearing that is the starting method on these saws. It tightens on the crank and acts as the flywheel nut as well. It is left handed for certain.

Dan
 
Yeah, kinda funny on this saw you don't put the carb on the engine, you put it on the case then put the engine in and try to get the thing to line up to put the carb mounting bolts in.

Yessir.... don't know about you, but I'm always paranoid of stripping the threads on the manifold when tightening down the carb bolts. Been lucky so far, but the threads aren't that deep.... bound to happen sooner or later.

Dan
 
.Thanks. The one I bought to day did not have a plug in it. I put one in and it felt like good compression. Did not check for spark tho. Will have to mess with them when I get done cutting tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. BTW, is the flywheel nut a left hand thread?

These saws and some old Poulans are saws that people throw away even though they still run. I guess they assume that because they're old they're no longer good. I have some old saws that I'd much prefer to some of the new stuff being sold today..
 
He said "sprag clutch starter nut" which is the flywheel nut. The starter rod goes through the bearing in the nut to keep it aligned. You might not have to take it apart if you have spark. If you don't have to remove the big nut, don't! Even if you remove the engine it's not necessary to remove the flywheel nut.

Lets just hope that they have spark. I think i'm gonna start on the other one first. On this one someone tightened the muffler too tight and snapped the bolt off inside it. Still is on there but it wobbles. I am sure that after a few minutes of cutting that thing would be off. I hate tapping and hela coils.
 
Yessir.... don't know about you, but I'm always paranoid of stripping the threads on the manifold when tightening down the carb bolts. Been lucky so far, but the threads aren't that deep.... bound to happen sooner or later.

Dan

I worry more about getting the thing lined up so the bolts will go in the manifold straight.
 
150

Bought that other one today. Took it home and with some fresh gas, a clean plug, and a quick re-setting of the jets (The high and low were out 3 turns each!) She fired up. Did run for a little bit then would die. Another pull and she would run for a few more seconds. Then when I picked it up to take it back in the garage, it dumped gas out all over. So either its got a hole in the tank, or a bad gas line. All the screws came out smoothly except for the philips screws along the handle. I got a few out, but the rest the heads were stripped out. I even took the impact driver to them but they would not budge. Looks like someone got to it before me. I Usually I take Vise Grips to stuff like that but some of them are counter sunk. I don't know what I can do much more with the one on the right, but the one on the left might have some hope. As long as the screws are in good shape.View attachment 247431
 
Bought that other one today. Took it home and with some fresh gas, a clean plug, and a quick re-setting of the jets (The high and low were out 3 turns each!) She fired up. Did run for a little bit then would die. Another pull and she would run for a few more seconds. Then when I picked it up to take it back in the garage, it dumped gas out all over. So either its got a hole in the tank, or a bad gas line. All the screws came out smoothly except for the philips screws along the handle. I got a few out, but the rest the heads were stripped out. I even took the impact driver to them but they would not budge. Looks like someone got to it before me. I Usually I take Vise Grips to stuff like that but some of them are counter sunk. I don't know what I can do much more with the one on the right, but the one on the left might have some hope. As long as the screws are in good shape.View attachment 247431

As old as those saws are it's possible the fuel line has turned to jello. Don't try to separate that fuel tank unless you're sure it's leaking, I've never had one that leaked except at the fuel line. You will have to pull the motor out to replace the fuel line so while it's out you might as well clean the carb and put a new kit in it. Make sure you get the inlet needle set right before you put it back together so you won't have to do it all over again. Sounds like you have spark so you won't have to pull the flywheel.
 
As old as those saws are it's possible the fuel line has turned to jello. Don't try to separate that fuel tank unless you're sure it's leaking, I've never had one that leaked except at the fuel line. You will have to pull the motor out to replace the fuel line so while it's out you might as well clean the carb and put a new kit in it. Make sure you get the inlet needle set right before you put it back together so you won't have to do it all over again. Sounds like you have spark so you won't have to pull the flywheel.

What do I do about the stripped out philips screws around the handle? I can't take it apart unless those are out
 
What do I do about the stripped out philips screws around the handle? I can't take it apart unless those are out

Why are you taking the handle apart? Are you talking about the front handlebar? You shouldn't have to remove either to pull the engine out of the 150. That engine housing separates at the seam at the front oil tank. Don't take any more screws out of the handle or you may make it leak if it isn't already. Maybe someone before you has messed with the handle and tank and made it leak?

Send me your email address by PM and I'll attempt to send you a repair manual pdf.
 
Why are you taking the handle apart? Are you talking about the front handlebar? You shouldn't have to remove either to pull the engine out of the 150. That engine housing separates at the seam at the front oil tank. Don't take any more screws out of the handle or you may make it leak if it isn't already. Maybe someone before you has messed with the handle and tank and made it leak?

Send me your email address by PM and I'll attempt to send you a repair manual pdf.

hey apjr. can you send me a copy of that manual too. pm sent. thanks, jerry
 
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ae9a15b4-0b30-f71e.jpg


1100? Orrrr?
 
An XP1100 (or a 1130G) is a gear drive. That looks like an XP1020 or XP1020A. If it has an inboard clutch, it's an XP1020. It it has an outboard clutch (signifying an auto oiler pump in the case of these saws) then it's an XP1020A. Could also be a Super XP1020A. For some reason, it seems that about 80% of these 100cc Homelites seem to end up with the MN/SN tag removed. Lotsa guys must've pinched them from their employers years ago and ditched the tags to obscure the origins of the saws......
 
Check out this XL-12 I bought from a member on here. Runs great. Gonna buy a new 20in Bar and chain for it. View attachment 247666View attachment 247667

I hope it turns out well. I bought one from a local shop that has something mysterious wrong with it. Runs good some time and sometimes not. I haven't done much to it yet but the guy I bought it from said it only had a leaky gas tank. I fixed the tank but sure haven't fixed the saw yet. Probably got an air leak. I don't have the patience to fix the thing right at this moment so I'll probably throw it in a corner somewhere and hope someone steals it.
 

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