Homelite Chainsaws

[fastLeo151]

Thats my favorite part of the saw, I am looking for a bar tensioner mechanism for it tho.

 

[lesorubcheek]

It is definitely not a 2000, as the plug is on the other side of the cylinder. It is most likely a 1000 or 1020. It has the rare auto oiler clutch cover, which adds quite a bit of value. The horrible repaint job takes value away, however.

Yessir... that auto oiler is :love1: My guess based on the handlebar (black grip), muffler (thin with recessed bolt on the cover) and starter housing is its a C-71. This is of course assuming nothing has been changed out over its lifetime. You don't see many of those side mounted auto oilers.

editing post..... after a quick IPL looksee, agree it may well be a 1000 also. Just have to pull the muffler and check the bore to know for sure. As for the bar adjuster, its the same parts as on the rest of the C series. 80617 for the bolt, 81123 for the locking nut and 55613 for the guide pin.

Dan

 

[Eccentric]

Also, these bar nuts work really well on big Homelites. They use a 9/16 wrench (same as Mac) but have the built in washer so you don't ever hog out your clutch cover.

McMaster-Carr

That's the way to go for sure. Unlike 'hardware store' flanged nuts, those are smooth faced (rather than serrated) so they don't eat the cover. Good stuff.

I snagged this old hunk the other day, the guy said it was a 2000, but im thinking thats not the case. The good thing is it runs and oils. it is missing the bar tensioner assembly so i cant cut with it yet. If any one knows what it is that would be great. the more I look at it the more I think its about 4 different saws put together.

thanks

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fee free to fix my pictures

It is definitely not a 2000, as the plug is on the other side of the cylinder. It is most likely a 1000 or 1020. It has the rare auto oiler clutch cover, which adds quite a bit of value. The horrible repaint job takes value away, however.

Just take care of that auto oiler clutch cover. That thing is probably worth more than the rest of the saw.

Thats my favorite part of the saw, I am looking for a bar tensioner mechanism for it tho.

Yessir... that auto oiler is :love1: My guess based on the handlebar (black grip), muffler (thin with recessed bolt on the cover) and starter housing is its a C-71. This is of course assuming nothing has been changed out over its lifetime. You don't see many of those side mounted auto oilers.

Dan

My thinking is that it's a C-71. It's not an XP1020 as the cylinder doesn't appear to have the boss for the third muffler mounting screw. Could possibly be an XP1000. The early XP1000's have the same muffler and cylinder shield as the C-71. Later XP1000's have the same three screw muffler body and cylinder as the XP1020 saws. A quick removal of the muffler and a measurement of the bore with a popsicle stick and a calliper would nail it down.

I also agree about the auto oiler clutch cover being the cherry there. I saw a nice looking (original paint, etc) XP1000 with the auto oiler clutch cover go for big money on feebay a few years ago. Like this saw, it had paint that matched the rest of the saw, rather than the silver usually seen on the AO and GD 'conversion clutch covers.

 

[diggers_dad]

Here is a similar saw for sale on Ebay. The top handle is much shorter than a Super 2. On'y paid $18 for mine so I can't see spending $ for this saw and shipping.

Homelite XL Textron Climbing Chain Saw Repair or Parts with case | eBay

Bob

How about this one?

Shoot me a PM if it is.

dd

 

[fastLeo151]

Yessir... that auto oiler is :love1: My guess based on the handlebar (black grip), muffler (thin with recessed bolt on the cover) and starter housing is its a C-71. This is of course assuming nothing has been changed out over its lifetime. You don't see many of those side mounted auto oilers.


editing post..... after a quick IPL looksee, agree it may well be a 1000 also. Just have to pull the muffler and check the bore to know for sure. As for the bar adjuster, its the same parts as on the rest of the C series. 80617 for the bolt, 81123 for the locking nut and 55613 for the guide pin.

Dan

What bar tensioner mechanism will fit. I spent some time with it And I am in love and i would really like to get it inthe wood. Thanks for all the fine help

 

[Eccentric]

What bar tensioner mechanism will fit. I spent some time with it And I am in love and i would really like to get it inthe wood. Thanks for all the fine help

Yessir... that auto oiler is :love1: My guess based on the handlebar (black grip), muffler (thin with recessed bolt on the cover) and starter housing is its a C-71. This is of course assuming nothing has been changed out over its lifetime. You don't see many of those side mounted auto oilers.

editing post..... after a quick IPL looksee, agree it may well be a 1000 also. Just have to pull the muffler and check the bore to know for sure. As for the bar adjuster, its the same parts as on the rest of the C series. 80617 for the bolt, 81123 for the locking nut and 55613 for the guide pin.

Dan

Dan just told you what parts would fit (in the post you quoted). C-Series (C-5/7/9, C-51/71/91, C-52/72) tensioner parts are whatcha need...

 

[fastLeo151]

Haha oops Im trying to do this on my phone in the shop I got to much going on. I roughly checked the bore with a plastics stick and got 50mm

 

[Eccentric]

Haha oops Im trying to do this on my phone in the shop I got to much going on. I roughly checked the bore with a plastics stick and got 50mm

C-71 it is then.


http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...1f4245e57b69b9c088256b7c001842ff?OpenDocument

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...6acd5fd22eeb447d88256c2800666d60?OpenDocument

 

[fastLeo151]

when I had the muff off the ports are packed with carbon build up, I am going to tear it down and clean them up i definitely don't want to risk the top end. My next question is amsoil saber at 40:1 ok?

 

[Eccentric]

when I had the muff off the ports are packed with carbon build up, I am going to tear it down and clean them up i definitely don't want to risk the top end. My next question is amsoil saber at 40:1 ok?

Yep. A good synthetic at 40/1 is A-OK, and is what I run in all my saws (including those that have "16/1" on the fuel cap).

 

[fastLeo151]

10-4 good buddy, thanks again for all the help I am all new to these metal monsters

 

[a. palmer jr.]

How about this one?

Shoot me a PM if it is.

dd

That's the correct muffler for an XL or Super 2, the earlier type without the muffler grille that sticks up.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

got a real doozie of a question here. even surprises me.
just got my C5 back together and was trying to start it for the first time. naturally the rope broke so i had to quit. what i realized though was that since this thing has no way to hold the throttle open (except for my hand) i have no idea what the procedure is for starting these.
is it the drop start while holding the throttle open like on the small saws?
is it just starting it without having the throttle partially open?
need some help here.

 

[Ambull]

got a real doozie of a question here. even surprises me.
just got my C5 back together and was trying to start it for the first time. naturally the rope broke so i had to quit. what i realized though was that since this thing has no way to hold the throttle open (except for my hand) i have no idea what the procedure is for starting these.
is it the drop start while holding the throttle open like on the small saws?
is it just starting it without having the throttle partially open?
need some help here.

A lot of people use a tie wrap. Fasten it loosely on the rear handle, and then slide it over the trigger to hold the throttle open.

If you don't like that, then just raise the idle every time you cold start it. Once the saw is warm, it will start without any throttle.

Last choice is the dreaded drop start.....

 

[RandyMac]

Drop start? Ya mean where ya hold the saw like a big handgun and pull the rope?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

got a real doozie of a question here. even surprises me.
just got my C5 back together and was trying to start it for the first time. naturally the rope broke so i had to quit. what i realized though was that since this thing has no way to hold the throttle open (except for my hand) i have no idea what the procedure is for starting these.
is it the drop start while holding the throttle open like on the small saws?
is it just starting it without having the throttle partially open?
need some help here.

Mine has the idle set up slightly, not enough that the chain will move, just start it the normal way as if it had a trigger lock. A well tuned C5 is a very easy starting saw.

 

[watsonr]

Put the bar up on a piece of wood so when it starts it cuts wood. Hold by the rear handle, finger on the trigger and yank away.

 

[67L36Driver]

A lot of people use a tie wrap. Fasten it loosely on the rear handle, and then slide it over the trigger to hold the throttle open.

If you don't like that, then just raise the idle every time you cold start it. Once the saw is warm, it will start without any throttle.

Last choice is the dreaded drop start.....

+1 on the zip tie. Have several so equipped.

 

[Ambull]

Drop start? Ya mean where ya hold the saw like a big handgun and pull the rope?

Yeah, you know..... the only way to start a 797 Mac.

 

[Ambull]

I was talking to Aaron the other day, and we decided that there are not enough posts in this thread..... After all, Homelites were a major player in the chainsaw industry for a long time. But this thread is getting spanked by the McCulloch and Poulan threads big time. Even the Pioneer thread is almost 100 pages ahead.

So I am trying to rally the troops here. Post up your classic Homelites!

Here are a few of mine: