Homelite Chainsaws

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Going along with the above, I give you the 'hotrod' of the midrange firewood saws.

The XL-101 types.

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while replacing the rope on my FM starter i looked at the ipl. i see a brake washer and a fibre washer on each side of the friction shoe assembly. however, i only have what appears to be fibre washers. can anyone shoe me pix of the brake washer with dimensions so i can make a more clear determination? is it possible the two washers stuck together? is the brake washer a metal washer? the shoes engaged before the rope broke. not so much now. i've obviously missed something during the reassembly as the shoes seem to hang up when pulled outward by hand. any help greatly appreciated.
 
while replacing the rope on my FM starter i looked at the ipl. i see a brake washer and a fibre washer on each side of the friction shoe assembly. however, i only have what appears to be fibre washers. can anyone shoe me pix of the brake washer with dimensions so i can make a more clear determination? is it possible the two washers stuck together? is the brake washer a metal washer? the shoes engaged before the rope broke. not so much now. i've obviously missed something during the reassembly as the shoes seem to hang up when pulled outward by hand. any help greatly appreciated.

I hope you didn't try to oil any of that. I didn't like the FM starter on my C5 so I changed it to the pawl type as used on the C71, had to change the whole thing, flywheel also.
 
...It's possible I may still have some of those parts left over from my C5. PM me if you can't find all of yours.

...ipl. i see a brake washer and a fibre washer on each side of the friction shoe assembly. however, i only have what appears to be fibre washers. can anyone show me pix of the brake washer with dimensions so i can make a more clear determination? is it possible the two washers stuck together? is the brake washer a metal washer? the shoes engaged before the rope broke. not so much now. i've obviously missed something during the reassembly as the shoes seem to hang up when pulled outward by hand. any help greatly appreciated.

thanks a.p. will let you know. any idea concerning the brake washer material and dimensions?
 
thanks a.p. will let you know. any idea concerning the brake washer material and dimensions?

I think it was the same size as the fiber washers if we're talking about the same thing. It has kind of a square hole in the center if I remember correctly. I'll rummage through my stuff and see if I can find any of that then I'll know more what I'm talking about.
 
got a real doozie of a question here. even surprises me.
just got my C5 back together and was trying to start it for the first time. naturally the rope broke so i had to quit. what i realized though was that since this thing has no way to hold the throttle open (except for my hand) i have no idea what the procedure is for starting these.
is it the drop start while holding the throttle open like on the small saws?
is it just starting it without having the throttle partially open?
need some help here.

A lot of people use a tie wrap. Fasten it loosely on the rear handle, and then slide it over the trigger to hold the throttle open.

If you don't like that, then just raise the idle every time you cold start it. Once the saw is warm, it will start without any throttle.

Last choice is the dreaded drop start.....


There was actually a throttle lock used on some of the C-series saws (as well as all of the XP-series and 2000-3100 saws). The parts are shown/listed in the IPL's. None of the C-5's I've gotten have ever had them however. I installed throttle lock parts on two of my C-5's (I still have one of them, and the other lives on the other side of the country now). There's a hole in the rear handle casting for the parts (and the tirgger has provissions to work with them). I had to ream those holes a tad for the parts to fit however. Installing them while the handle/carb box is on the saw is also somewhat tricky (with curse words involved) however. Once they're on, starting these saws is MUCH easier.

Funny thing is, when I was actually using the C-5's for firewood cutting, I never had throttle locks on them. These smallest C-series (77cc) saws aren't too hard to pull over. I would usually hold the saw down with a knee while pulling the rope with one hand and 'tickling' the throttle with the other hand. Worked fine (as would the tie wrap 'improvised throttle lock' solution). I wouldn't want to do the knee thing with the 100cc saws however. Laying the saw over a log and pulling rearward works well too, although the rope outlet on these saws isn't really set up for that (unlike the RH start Macs).
 
I think it was the same size as the fiber washers if we're talking about the same thing. It has kind of a square hole in the center if I remember correctly. I'll rummage through my stuff and see if I can find any of that then I'll know more what I'm talking about.

wondering if the washers sit on top of the friction shoe assembly or are they pushed inside?
 
There was actually a throttle lock used on some of the C-series saws (as well as all of the XP-series and 2000-3100 saws). The parts are shown/listed in the IPL's. None of the C-5's I've gotten have ever had them however. I installed throttle lock parts on two of my C-5's (I still have one of them, and the other lives on the other side of the country now). There's a hole in the rear handle casting for the parts (and the tirgger has provissions to work with them). I had to ream those holes a tad for the parts to fit however. Installing them while the handle/carb box is on the saw is also somewhat tricky (with curse words involved) however. Once they're on, starting these saws is MUCH easier.

Funny thing is, when I was actually using the C-5's for firewood cutting, I never had throttle locks on them. These smallest C-series (77cc) saws aren't too hard to pull over. I would usually hold the saw down with a knee while pulling the rope with one hand and 'tickling' the throttle with the other hand. Worked fine (as would the tie wrap 'improvised throttle lock' solution). I wouldn't want to do the knee thing with the 100cc saws however. Laying the saw over a log and pulling rearward works well too, although the rope outlet on these saws isn't really set up for that (unlike the RH start Macs).

The c-51 we had had a throttle lock
 
There was actually a throttle lock used on some of the C-series saws (as well as all of the XP-series and 2000-3100 saws). The parts are shown/listed in the IPL's. None of the C-5's I've gotten have ever had them however. I installed throttle lock parts on two of my C-5's (I still have one of them, and the other lives on the other side of the country now). There's a hole in the rear handle casting for the parts (and the tirgger has provissions to work with them). I had to ream those holes a tad for the parts to fit however. Installing them while the handle/carb box is on the saw is also somewhat tricky (with curse words involved) however. Once they're on, starting these saws is MUCH easier.

Funny thing is, when I was actually using the C-5's for firewood cutting, I never had throttle locks on them. These smallest C-series (77cc) saws aren't too hard to pull over. I would usually hold the saw down with a knee while pulling the rope with one hand and 'tickling' the throttle with the other hand. Worked fine (as would the tie wrap 'improvised throttle lock' solution). I wouldn't want to do the knee thing with the 100cc saws however. Laying the saw over a log and pulling rearward works well too, although the rope outlet on these saws isn't really set up for that (unlike the RH start Macs).

i'll be on the lookout for one on the bay. i'm guessing early on that homelite figured only p---ies needed a throttle lock whereas real men didn't. lol
 
wondering if the washers sit on top of the friction shoe assembly or are they pushed inside?

I looked in my old Homelite parts stash and couldn't find any of the washers, fiber or metal. I sold off a lot of the Homelite stuff that I knew I wouldn't use and probably put them in the sale. I couldn't get those FM starters to engage very well so I'll probably not be buying any saws that old any more.
 
wondering if the washers sit on top of the friction shoe assembly or are they pushed inside?

One friction washer on each side of the 'starter brake lever'. Engagement end of 'friction shoe' needs to be straight and sharp.

Below, the pulley has turned about 30-40 degrees for the dog to engage.

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You can prick punch the engagement surface of the starter cup in 1/8" intervals to help out. Worked on my Poulan 47.

Lots of saws use the F-M starter. Stihls, Remingtons, some old Poulans etc.
 
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thanks everyone for the help. got that C5 started tonight. really like that saw. just need a new chain and then to tune the carb. will get the chain monday. will try to post some pix monday as well.

so since its been over thirty years since i broke a saw in i'm kinda out of practice.
what's the best way to break in these new rings, etc. for a long life?

special thanks to eccentric, chainsawlady, bplust, roncoinc, chainsawmanXX, sawnami, 67L36Driver, 8433jeff, Steve NW WI, and dewayne parkin for help acquiring parts. you people rock.
 
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thanks everyone for the help. got that C5 started tonight. really like that saw. just need a new chain and then to tune the carb. will get the chain monday. will try to post some pix monday as well.

so since its been over thirty years since i broke a saw in i'm kinda out of practice.
what's the best way to break in these new rings, etc. for a long life?

special thanks to eccentric, chainsawlady, bplust, roncoinc, chainsawmanXX, sawnami, 67L36Driver, 8433jeff, Steve NW WI, and dewayne parkin for help acquiring parts. you people rock.

I agree. It's great to come to this site and talk to people who still want to help other people. After dealing with the rest of the world, the people here restore my faith in humanity.
 

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