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I've been digging around and I can't find where anyone (or business) has identified the different drum diameters for the 6 and 3 shoe 925 clutches. My 925, with the mystery clutch, has a drum measuring 3.1" ID. Does anybody know if it belongs to the 3 or 6 shoe clutch?

Thanks, Chris B.

By my measurement, the drum is 2.996" inside diameter. Oregon 37458X B is the rim drive drum you are looking for, for the three shoe clutch. Scored one a few weeks ago.

3.100" would be a bit overbig for a 3 shoe I think.
 
Here is a good shot of the throttle trigger eccentric and lockscrew just above the trigger in the second picture.

253444d1348073436-sxl925_2-jpg


You are supposed to be able to adjust the high speed idle with it. But I have found it can limit W.O.T.. If you turn the eccentric and hold the trigger you can observe the action. You may not be getting all the throttle you thought you had.
 
I have a super xl that is locked up.I have been letting it soak in mm oil for over a week and she's still locked.Does such a place exist were you can get a new piston and cylinder for this saw, and do I have to go back with a 50 something cc P/C or can a bigger one be bolted on?
 
I have a super xl that is locked up.I have been letting it soak in mm oil for over a week and she's still locked.Does such a place exist were you can get a new piston and cylinder for this saw, and do I have to go back with a 50 something cc P/C or can a bigger one be bolted on?

I purchased a SXL piston w/rings and pin off evilbay several months ago for 35 USD + shipping. Never found a NOS cylinder for the saw. Fortunately, the cylinder cleaned up very well.

You can use a XL-12 cylinder, piston and rings on that crankcase, I think. Same problem exists with cylinder availability.

Also: Just pull the jug. Breaking loose the piston and turning it over may cause more damage to the cylinder. It's already welded itself to the piston.
 
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I purchased a SXL piston w/rings and pin off evilbay several months ago for 35 USD + shipping. Never found a NOS cylinder for the saw. Fortunately, the cylinder cleaned up very well.

You can use a XL-12 cylinder, piston and rings on that crankcase, I think. Same problem exists with cylinder availability.

Also: Just pull the jug. Breaking loose the piston and turning it over may cause more damage to the cylinder. It's already welded itself to the piston.

Yea, plus breaking a fin off the flywheel.Chainsawr didn't have anything, that I could see, so I guess I must look were I don't like to go.

But will another, bigger topend fit this saw? thanks.
 
Yea, plus breaking a fin off the flywheel.Chainsawr didn't have anything, that I could see, so I guess I must look were I don't like to go.

But will another, bigger topend fit this saw? thanks.

Wico or Phelon flywheel? Lots of other saws use the same flywheel.

For example, I have an XL-12 Wico next to a Lombard AP42 type Wico flywheel and can't tell the difference.
 
I have a very nice 925 brought to me that has a scored cylinder and piston. No luck finding a 925 piston or cylinder but i have found a complete NOS piston\cylinder for a 922 which has the same stroke as a 925. Acres site says the carbs are different for the two. I am going to try to fit the 922 set up to the 925 if i can, anyone try this?
 
Wico or Phelon flywheel? Lots of other saws use the same flywheel.

For example, I have an XL-12 Wico next to a Lombard AP42 type Wico flywheel and can't tell the difference.

I'm not sure which flywheel. I just hated breaking that fin off, it looks really good.In fact the whole saw looks pretty good except it's locked up.I've never rebuilt a saw and thought this would make a good first time.I've got another xl12 that is just worn out, but will still run, just not much compression.
For the price of parts on the bay, maybe I should just part them out.
 
I'm not sure which flywheel. I just hated breaking that fin off, it looks really good.In fact the whole saw looks pretty good except it's locked up.I've never rebuilt a saw and thought this would make a good first time.I've got another xl12 that is just worn out, but will still run, just not much compression.
For the price of parts on the bay, maybe I should just part them out.

Try the swap meet thread. Dozens of people on here have sxl parts. I had 2 good of them series saws, but i forgot what happend to themm???
 
I have a very nice 925 brought to me that has a scored cylinder and piston. No luck finding a 925 piston or cylinder but i have found a complete NOS piston\cylinder for a 922 which has the same stroke as a 925. Acres site says the carbs are different for the two. I am going to try to fit the 922 set up to the 925 if i can, anyone try this?

I saw that P/C listing. Good price considering the current market. They should swap over as an assembly just fine. The carbs bolt to the crankcases, not the cylinders on these saws.

I'm not sure which flywheel. I just hated breaking that fin off, it looks really good.In fact the whole saw looks pretty good except it's locked up.I've never rebuilt a saw and thought this would make a good first time.I've got another xl12 that is just worn out, but will still run, just not much compression.
For the price of parts on the bay, maybe I should just part them out.

Post a couple pics of the flywheel and the coil and post up the wording on the face of it. You should see "Wico" or "Phelon". Is this a points ignition or electronic ignition saw? I can probably help you with a flywheel.
 
Super 2 fuel line and oil line size

What is the size of the line. I'll be purchasing tygon from ace. Thanks
 
What is the size of the line. I'll be purchasing tygon from ace. Thanks

3/32"ID-3/16"OD or .117"/.211" line will work fine. The 3/32"ID stuff is a bit harder to get on the barbs, and the .117"ID stuff is a bit harder to slip through the holes in the oil tank. Pick your poison. I believe stock Homelite line on those saws is the 3/32"ID stuff.
 
Again thanks Eccentric. One quick question from your signature line. I keep reading when tuning at WOT it should sound like a 4 stroke burble. I've worked on many mower engines and don't know exactly what that is. I've searched and can't find any other way to measure. Do you have a video with the sound readily available I can practice with? Thanks
 
Does anyone know the part numbers for the inner and outer bar guide plates for a Super Wiz 80? I have the IPL, but it would take Carnac the Magnificent to be able to read the numbers from that scan...

It looks like I'm going to replace the bar on this saw. I cleaned it up a bit today since I didn't have anything else on the to do list, and put a square on the edge... I now know why it cuts curves... I can only guess that they missed a little when laminating that bar... The two outer plates are just about 1/32" out of being in line. To an extent that works for me since its a 22" bar, and really, who wants to pick up that monster for a 22" cut... Perhaps I'll find a 36" and just let it hang around and look vicious...
 
Post a couple pics of the flywheel and the coil and post up the wording on the face of it. You should see "Wico" or "Phelon". Is this a points ignition or electronic ignition saw? I can probably help you with a flywheel.

Thanks, that's very kind of you.I am offshore now and don't have the saw with me, I almost put it in my bag but wasn't sure what the security guard at the heliport would say.:smile2: Will one broken fin make that big a differance?

I have a running xl12 and xl450 so I will just keep it for parts.It just looks, well, used but good, you know, like it might still have some life in it.I got it when a friend of mine's dad passed away and he was going to haul all his old saws and parts to the dump.Glad I caught him before he did. Anyway, his dad had a few guys working for him back then and the saws got treated pretty rough. It may be straight gassed, I just don't know. I'm going to tear it down, just to see what it looks like and because I never have.It would be nice to have it right now because we are getting gas and can't weld, so I could be in the shop ripping it open.
 
Again thanks Eccentric. One quick question from your signature line. I keep reading when tuning at WOT it should sound like a 4 stroke burble. I've worked on many mower engines and don't know exactly what that is. I've searched and can't find any other way to measure. Do you have a video with the sound readily available I can practice with? Thanks

There are videos on youtube. I don't have any particular ones in mind. Just run that sucker wide open and slowly close the Needle until it runs 'clean'. Open it back up and you'll hear the transition to 'four stroking'. If you were here I'd show you with one of my saws....

Does anyone know the part numbers for the inner and outer bar guide plates for a Super Wiz 80? I have the IPL, but it would take Carnac the Magnificent to be able to read the numbers from that scan...

It looks like I'm going to replace the bar on this saw. I cleaned it up a bit today since I didn't have anything else on the to do list, and put a square on the edge... I now know why it cuts curves... I can only guess that they missed a little when laminating that bar... The two outer plates are just about 1/32" out of being in line. To an extent that works for me since its a 22" bar, and really, who wants to pick up that monster for a 22" cut... Perhaps I'll find a 36" and just let it hang around and look vicious...

Carnac sez...

56957-A for the outer plate.

56956 for the inner plate.

Here's a link to a clearer download of the SW-80 IPL.


http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hom...nual-For-SUPER-WIZ80-Chain-Saw-UT-24438-A.pdf

Thanks, that's very kind of you.I am offshore now and don't have the saw with me, I almost put it in my bag but wasn't sure what the security guard at the heliport would say.:smile2: Will one broken fin make that big a differance?

I have a running xl12 and xl450 so I will just keep it for parts.It just looks, well, used but good, you know, like it might still have some life in it.I got it when a friend of mine's dad passed away and he was going to haul all his old saws and parts to the dump.Glad I caught him before he did. Anyway, his dad had a few guys working for him back then and the saws got treated pretty rough. It may be straight gassed, I just don't know. I'm going to tear it down, just to see what it looks like and because I never have.It would be nice to have it right now because we are getting gas and can't weld, so I could be in the shop ripping it open.

I wouldn't run one with a fin missing. The structural integrety and balance of the flywheel is shot. It could grenade, or at least wear the FW side crank bearing out. Replacements are easy to find.
 
I wouldn't run one with a fin missing. The structural integrety and balance of the flywheel is shot. It could grenade, or at least wear the FW side crank bearing out. Replacements are easy to find.

The farmer in me says break another fin off kitty-corner. Feel free to disagree.

Just make sure you don't end up with this:

185322d1306462078-100_8045-custom-jpg


Chris B.
 
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