Homelite Chainsaws

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Here is that SXLAO that I was talking about. I'll probably just keep this one around for old times sake, since my dad used one for so long.

They were good saws. Although probably better with points ign's. :ices_rofl:

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good looking saw!!!

that saw looks real good that bar and chain look real nice on it!!!anybody ever paint a bar??? for an old saw i mean i would not waste it on one i used alot but on say and old bar that came with the saw or would that plug up the oil holes? maybe stuff or plug the hole before ya painted it?anyways great looking saw mark!:blob2:
 
that saw looks real good that bar and chain look real nice on it!!!anybody ever paint a bar??? for an old saw i mean i would not waste it on one i used alot but on say and old bar that came with the saw or would that plug up the oil holes? maybe stuff or plug the hole before ya painted it?anyways great looking saw mark!:blob2:

Thats not a new bar, I just cleaned the rust off of it and hit it with a spray bomb to keep if from rusting again.

Kind of a waste on a saw that you use all the time though.
 
Here is that SXLAO that I was talking about. I'll probably just keep this one around for old times sake, since my dad used one for so long.

They were good saws. Although probably better with points ign's. :ices_rofl:

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Good lookin SXLAO you got there Mark and a nifty fix for those ole blue modules. I am going to collect up a few of them blue buggers to have for future builds on a few of those saws when I get time.

Pioneerguy600
 
Right on!

i was hoping it was painted sure looks like new ya ever paint any saws with amotive or boat engine spray paint the saw i mean wonder how it holds up agianst gas i may try to find a red see how it works!
 
Homelite Shop Manual

I have a copy of the Homelite Shop Service Manual - 3rd Edition.

If you PM me with your e-mail address I will gladly forward you a PDF copy of the manual. I will have to send it in two different e-mails due to the 10 MB attachment restriction of my ISP.
I own an original copy of the manual and have scanned it myself. I know how hard it is to find information on some of these old saws. See below for the models that this manual covers.

HomeliteShopManual.jpg


It covers the following models...

Chainsaws

EZ, EZ Automatic, EZ-M, XL Mini, XL Mini Automatic

XL-12, XL-15, Super XL-12, Super XL-15, XL Automatic, XL Automatic Gear Chainsaws

Drive, Super XL, Super XL Automatic, XL-500 Automatic

C-5, C-51, C-52, C-7, C-71, C-72, C-9, C-91, C-51G, C-71G, C-01G, XP-1000, CP-1020, XP-1020 Automatic, Super XP-1020, Super XP-1020 Automatic, XP-1100, XP-1030, XP-1130A, Super XP-1130A, 2000, 2000E, 2000P, Super 2000

XL-700, XL-800, XL-800AM, XL-850, XL-870, XL-875, XL-900E, XL-900EAM, XL-901, XL-903, XL-903E, XL-903EAM, XL-904

XL-101, XL-102, XL-102 Automatic, X-103, XL-103E, XL-104, XL-104E

ZIP, WIZ, Super WIZ, WIZ55, Super WIZ55, Super WIZ66, Super 77, 775-D, 775-G, 995-D, 995-G

5-30N Belt Drive

Servicing the Homelite Capacitor Discharge Ignintion System

Construction Equipment

250 Series Pumps, Generators, Blowers

251 Series Pumps, Generators

8. 9. 9-A, 20, 23, 24, 35 & 36 Pumps, Generators

XL Series Brushcutters, Circular Saws, Generators, Pumps

XL-88 Multi-Purpose Saw
 
I swear this one had spark as I checked it when I got it, and it must have went bad setting on a shelf in a warm dry garage.

I wouldn't have went through the trouble of doing the fuel system if it wouldnt have had fire! :confused:

This SXLAO is super clean and low houred so I thought I would hang on to this one for old times sake since I cut alot of wood with my dad who had one just like it.

You should have heard the sound of that ole SXL and the Poulan 306A makeing music together. :cheers:

I'm surprised the module/coil went bad just sitting. I'd have suspected the kill switch........but since you did get going after a coil/module swap then I guess I was wrong. Happens a lot...

Went over to Mark's yesterday and he was hard at work on his 'beloved' SXLAO. Had an XL400 points ignition in one hand and his dead SXL ignition in the other. Did some fitting and testing and backtracking. Found out you can't use the points flywheel with the SXL recoil housing. The fan hits the cover. Had to stick with the electronic flywheel, but then then the underside of it hits the points box. So....Mark found a fairly elegant solution to that and it involved his bandsaw.



After he fitted the Atom module, the saw fired up on the first pull. Pretty mean sounding little saw.

Chris B.

See the mounting plate that is held on with 3 screws, two in the crankcase and one in the cyl head?

I took a steel strap about 1/8" thick and maybe a 1/2" wide and bolted it to the screw that mounts to the cyl head with it hanging down. I then screwed the Atom module to that plate which ended up directly under the coil.

Seems to work great.

It will probaly last much longer then those original Homelite electronic coil/modules. Seems they go out on a regular bases.

Just so you guys know that point ign coil would not mount on the original electronic ign plate. Thats why I had to hack up the original point plate.

Pretty slick guys. You could have swapped in the older XL12 points coil mounting bracket, but modifying the electronic ignition coil bracket worked great for you obviously. Thanks for the Atom module mounting info. Gonna swap to those things in a buch of saws myself sometime down the road.

I have a copy of the Homelite Shop Service Manual - 3rd Edition.

If you PM me with your e-mail address I will gladly forward you a PDF copy of the manual. I will have to send it in two different e-mails due to the 10 MB attachment restriction of my ISP.
I own an original copy of the manual and have scanned it myself. I know how hard it is to find information on some of these old saws. See below for the models that this manual covers.



It covers the following models...

Chainsaws

EZ, EZ Automatic, EZ-M, XL Mini, XL Mini Automatic

XL-12, XL-15, Super XL-12, Super XL-15, XL Automatic, XL Automatic Gear Chainsaws

Drive, Super XL, Super XL Automatic, XL-500 Automatic

C-5, C-51, C-52, C-7, C-71, C-72, C-9, C-91, C-51G, C-71G, C-01G, XP-1000, CP-1020, XP-1020 Automatic, Super XP-1020, Super XP-1020 Automatic, XP-1100, XP-1030, XP-1130A, Super XP-1130A, 2000, 2000E, 2000P, Super 2000

XL-700, XL-800, XL-800AM, XL-850, XL-870, XL-875, XL-900E, XL-900EAM, XL-901, XL-903, XL-903E, XL-903EAM, XL-904

XL-101, XL-102, XL-102 Automatic, X-103, XL-103E, XL-104, XL-104E

ZIP, WIZ, Super WIZ, WIZ55, Super WIZ55, Super WIZ66, Super 77, 775-D, 775-G, 995-D, 995-G

5-30N Belt Drive

Servicing the Homelite Capacitor Discharge Ignintion System

Construction Equipment

250 Series Pumps, Generators, Blowers

251 Series Pumps, Generators

8. 9. 9-A, 20, 23, 24, 35 & 36 Pumps, Generators

XL Series Brushcutters, Circular Saws, Generators, Pumps

XL-88 Multi-Purpose Saw

PM on the way!!!:cheers:
 
I'm surprised the module/coil went bad just sitting. I'd have suspected the kill switch........but since you did get going after a coil/module swap then I guess I was wrong. Happens a lot...





Pretty slick guys. You could have swapped in the older XL12 points coil mounting bracket, but modifying the electronic ignition coil bracket worked great for you obviously. Thanks for the Atom module mounting info. Gonna swap to those things in a buch of saws myself sometime down the road.



PM on the way!!!:cheers:

Yes the switch was my first thought as well, and its easy to disconect and try. I cant swear that the coil went bad sitting, but I'm pretty sure that saw had spark when I first got it and checked it.


That modifed coil bracket is off a XL400 which is a points saw. Probably the same on alot of different models I would think.

The points coil would not bolt on right on the electronic coil bracket! If I would have had a points ign XL12 or SXL flywheel I probably wouldnt have had to hack the points box off.

The 400 flywheel I could have used but the fan fins on it were longer and would hit the recoil cover! I could have used the 400 recoil but that was just wrong...

Yep the little strap iron bolted in works great for mounting that module out of the way.
 
They followed me home Classic 180, Super 2, XL 2, 360.

I've got a Super 2 from a yard sale that I am really hoping to get running - I love the light weight and balance of that hybrid-handle design. But it is smoking like a dirty B***tard... hoping I just got the oil lines reversed when I took it apart. If it's the fuel pump I don't think I want to deal with that.
 
I've got a Super 2 from a yard sale that I am really hoping to get running - I love the light weight and balance of that hybrid-handle design. But it is smoking like a dirty B***tard... hoping I just got the oil lines reversed when I took it apart. If it's the fuel pump I don't think I want to deal with that.

New fuel? 40:1 fully synthetic? If not try that...

oil lines reversed :confused:
 
I've got a Super 2 from a yard sale that I am really hoping to get running - I love the light weight and balance of that hybrid-handle design. But it is smoking like a dirty B***tard... hoping I just got the oil lines reversed when I took it apart. If it's the fuel pump I don't think I want to deal with that.

You have 1 line coming from the crankcase to the top of the oil tank with a duckbill valve on the end of it inside the top of the tank. You can see it when you remove the oil cap. Be sure the duckbill is on it or it will smoke by drawing some oil into the crankcase. The other line goes to the fitting on the bar holder(or whatever you call it). The other line is from fuel tank to carburetor. Make sure the duckbill valve is in the hole on top of the gas tank or it will leak. You can see a vid of it on youtube.com just type in "homelite Super 2 oiler" and he shows you what you need to know.
 
If it's the fuel pump it's still no big deal but it wouldn't make it smoke, it might make it not run, however. I would guess it's in the oil line to the crankcase and probably the duckbill valve is missing. Let us know what you find out.
 
I should have given more info... Already replaced the fuel line and pickup, and the oil pressure line and duckbill, and the oil pickup line (tubing was bad on both oil lines). The pickup line fitting, where it goes into the crankcase, was loose; I just tapped it into place and it seems to be holding. The oil line to the bar seems to be fine. It has new fuel. (This saw has the oil pump in the crankcase housing, operates on crankcase pressure, no connection between the oil system and the carb.)

Original problem was the saw would start and idle OK, though fast, but would only run at full throttle for a few seconds, then race and die. Thought maybe a bad fuel pickup or line, replaced those, still same problem. Had an extra Zama C2S carb lying around from an old XL parts saw, so on a whim I swapped carbs and reassembled... Now it is smoking like crazy.

What to try next? I have pages from a service manual that someone here forwarded, it tells how to pull and replace the oil pump but that looks like way more trouble than this little guy is worth.
 
I should have given more info... Already replaced the fuel line and pickup, and the oil pressure line and duckbill, and the oil pickup line (tubing was bad on both oil lines). The pickup line fitting, where it goes into the crankcase, was loose; I just tapped it into place and it seems to be holding. The oil line to the bar seems to be fine. It has new fuel. (This saw has the oil pump in the crankcase housing, operates on crankcase pressure, no connection between the oil system and the carb.)

Original problem was the saw would start and idle OK, though fast, but would only run at full throttle for a few seconds, then race and die. Thought maybe a bad fuel pickup or line, replaced those, still same problem. Had an extra Zama C2S carb lying around from an old XL parts saw, so on a whim I swapped carbs and reassembled... Now it is smoking like crazy.

What to try next? I have pages from a service manual that someone here forwarded, it tells how to pull and replace the oil pump but that looks like way more trouble than this little guy is worth.

It sounds like to me that some bar oil got in the crankcase. My Super 2 did that earlier this year. I think I took the muffler off it and squirted some fuel mix in the hole to kinda rinse out the cylinder. Then I left the muffler off and pulled on the starter rope a bunch of times to empty out the cylinder and eventually it started but smoked like crazy. Eventually all the oil burned out of the crankcase and it stopped smoking. Did you adjust the carburetor that you put on it? If not, you might try running it a tad leaner and see if that helps.
 
Turns out I did have the oil lines connected wrong, so it was sucking oil into the crankcase instead of pushing it to the bar. Fixed that, cleaned out the cylinder and the muffler as best I could, started up and blew out the rest of the oil, adjusted the carb and now it's running pretty good. :biggrinbounce2: (At first it was dripping oil and not oiling the bar, and it wouldn't cut... once I got the bar on right-side-up :dizzy:: and the chain facing the right way, though, it works fine!)

Next problem is the clutch, the chain runs even at idle, I suspect the clutch is munged up (more on that later) but for now it's cuttin' wood! :givebeer:
 
360

I have heard some good reviews on the Homelite 360 lately so I scooped one up the other day for cheap. I had a 330 but sold it, I wasnt a fan of that saw and it had less grunt and was heavier (I think) than my SXLAO. Its gonna need some work but will fit in nicley with my XL 12 and SXLAO.
 
I have heard some good reviews on the Homelite 360 lately so I scooped one up the other day for cheap. I had a 330 but sold it, I wasnt a fan of that saw and it had less grunt and was heavier (I think) than my SXLAO. Its gonna need some work but will fit in nicley with my XL 12 and SXLAO.

Joe that 360 I went threw recently really runs great. I have yet to have a chance to get it in wood though. I'll get some time one of these days.
 
I've got a Super 2 from a yard sale that I am really hoping to get running - I love the light weight and balance of that hybrid-handle design. But it is smoking like a dirty B***tard... hoping I just got the oil lines reversed when I took it apart. If it's the fuel pump I don't think I want to deal with that.

let me know what you may need for it i can put a special parts deal package together for you
 

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