Homelite Chainsaws
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whatscooking
ArboristSite Operative
150 automatic starter?
I need help with putting one back together. Does anything hold the rope pulley to the housing. I have one all messed up with a broken spring.
I need help with putting one back together. Does anything hold the rope pulley to the housing. I have one all messed up with a broken spring.
NC Hillbilly
ArboristSite Member
Super 2 bar length?
I have just gotten the little super 2 running and was wondering what length bar I should get since the old 14" is worn out? This saw will be used to limb and clear atv hunting trails. What do you recommend and why? I have not ever used one of these saws and am trying to figure out what is best for the power it makes.
Thanks
I have just gotten the little super 2 running and was wondering what length bar I should get since the old 14" is worn out? This saw will be used to limb and clear atv hunting trails. What do you recommend and why? I have not ever used one of these saws and am trying to figure out what is best for the power it makes.
Thanks
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
12" or 14" would be best. You can run a 16" bar for 'reach'..........but I wouldn't count on it performing very well when burried in oak.
The Oregon A061 mount is what you're looking for. Open ended slot, with a 'square' section in the front of the slot. They can often be found for peanuts on feebay and on clearance at Baileys.
NC Hillbilly
ArboristSite Member
12" or 14" would be best. You can run a 16" bar for 'reach'..........but I wouldn't count on it performing very well when burried in oak.
The Oregon A061 mount is what you're looking for. Open ended slot, with a 'square' section in the front of the slot. They can often be found for peanuts on feebay and on clearance at Baileys.
Thanks! I will try to find a 12" or 14".
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
I would have probably bought it for $20 non running. It was funny too because last year around this same time he had that same saw there. I asked him how much he payed for it. Said $10. I offered him quite a bit for it and he turned me down. I randomly asked him if he still had it yesterday. Took me out and showed me it. Then he randomly said I could have it for $10. I could not pass it up. Took it out today and with a little work (finding screws for the piece that goes from the air cleaner to the carb and cleaning the air filter). Fired right up on the 4th pull. Would not idle worth a crap with the idle jet in all the way, so I turned in the low about 1 turn and it idles good. Cut a few cookies in some big pine and tapped it. Cut very nice. Will get that vid on here soon.
Show us you ill gotten gains!!
Photos please. I just love $10.00 saws!!!:hmm3grin2orange:
Lee:cool2::cool2:
should be 'YOUR' of course
Photos please. I just love $10.00 saws!!!:hmm3grin2orange:
Lee:cool2::cool2:
should be 'YOUR' of course
Got this one a few weeks ago, thought I would show you guys.
It was a freebie, just been parked for along time over a bad friction shoe.
Cleaned it up, fixed the starter and sealed up the fuel tank leak and its a good runner now.
It was a freebie, just been parked for along time over a bad friction shoe.
Cleaned it up, fixed the starter and sealed up the fuel tank leak and its a good runner now.
BDM53ENT
ArboristSite Operative
Love it, great looking saw! Which model is yours and bar length? I ran both my C51s the other day and had a blast. 18" and 22" bars and they ate up red oak all day long. Bad thing is these lead sleds will eat your arms up to LOL. (Your pic reminds I have got to get me a set of overalls :msp_thumbup
Mark:
How many turns out on the h.s. jet on your C5?
I have mine out past where the book calls for and it still falls on its' face after 30 seconds of hard pull. Nurse it and then it's off going on another half minute of hard pull.
I have new rubber goods in the Tilly.
Carl.
How many turns out on the h.s. jet on your C5?
I have mine out past where the book calls for and it still falls on its' face after 30 seconds of hard pull. Nurse it and then it's off going on another half minute of hard pull.
I have new rubber goods in the Tilly.
Carl.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Carl I'm thinking fuel cap vent, munged up in-tank fuel filter, soft in-tank fuel line that's collapsing, munged up carb fuel filter (bronze disc under the steel plate at the bottom of the carb), or possibly pump diaphragm/gasket in wrong order. Seen all of the above cause what you're describing on these saws at one time or another. How far out is your H side needle? Mine's around 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 out IIRC.
As for the pump diaphragm/gasket (when talking about Tilly HL's)..............they're not installed in the same order as what's on a 'cube' carb......so it's easy to forget and put them in the wrong order (I have) when the brain goes on autopilot. With the carb body upside down, the right order is metering gasket, metering diaphragm, metering plate, pump gasket, pump diaphragm, then pump plate. If the pump diaphragm is put on before pump gasket (as is done with 'cube' carbs), then it'll run but the carb won't pump fuel for ####.
C5 Fight.
Saw has new filter element (big felt sleve type), new fuel lines and kit in the carb. This is the C5 I put new rings in. Kitted the carb. but, needs the gasket/diaphram order checked again. H jet is out 1 1/4 turns. Fuel is puddeling in the carb. box but maybe the strainer cover drips a tad. I can see plenty of fuel in the tank to carb. line. Cap vent is a small hole that spits fuel while running.
Thing is, the book (Clymer and Homelite manuals) calls for 1/2-3/4 turns open. Yikes!
It's got to be a carb. problem. Sluggish metering needle?
Saw has new filter element (big felt sleve type), new fuel lines and kit in the carb. This is the C5 I put new rings in. Kitted the carb. but, needs the gasket/diaphram order checked again. H jet is out 1 1/4 turns. Fuel is puddeling in the carb. box but maybe the strainer cover drips a tad. I can see plenty of fuel in the tank to carb. line. Cap vent is a small hole that spits fuel while running.
Thing is, the book (Clymer and Homelite manuals) calls for 1/2-3/4 turns open. Yikes!
It's got to be a carb. problem. Sluggish metering needle?
mentioned last week i was looking at an SXLAO at a pawn shop for $40 (what?????). went back the next day with some mix and a round. pulled the muff and there were some mini scores that looked like carbon caused. showed that to the counterman and took it outside for a trial. added mix. it started on 4th pull. dayum! it literally attacked that round in the back of my truck. took it back in, explained about the awful scoring and how i'd have to rebuild it, and asked what their lowest price would be. he said $35 out the door. didn't even quibble, just handed him $35 and left. used the saw saturday on some white oak alongside my 375 and while its not near as fast as the 375 it ain't no slouch.
was i surprised at the asking price? yep.
could i have bargained for a lower price? maybe.
am i very pleased? yep.
now, here for your viewing pleasure.
was i surprised at the asking price? yep.
could i have bargained for a lower price? maybe.
am i very pleased? yep.
now, here for your viewing pleasure.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The only Homelites that I've seen the recomended H needle setting be that closed are the XL900 series when equipped with the 'semi fixed jet' Tillotson HS carbs. NEVER for any of the Tillotson HL carburetors. Which Homelite manual did you see that recomendation in Carl? I'm off to go read through my 3rd Ed Homelite SM. If the book does say to do that.........then the book's wrong. Plain an simple. Tune the H side per what's in my sig line below...
BRB....
Your problem could also be from a metering lever that's set too low. Should be flush with the curved floor of the metering chamber where the curve 'crosses' the cut that the metering lever lives in.
Edit:
Just checked the 3rd, 4th, and 5th Dd Homelite SM's. They do indeed instruct you to set both the L and H needles at 1/2 to 3/4 turns open from seated for initial adjustments. That's just wrong. Must've been a misprint in the 3rd (or even earlier) books and was just reused in later editions (and in the Clymer book). In the Zip/Wiz/Etc upright cylinder saw section, they instruct you to set the Tillotson HL's for those saws at 3/4 turn out for the L speed and 1-1/4 turn out for the H side. Those are basically the same carbs as what's on the C/XP series saws............so initial settings should be the same. McCulloch specs initial settings for HL equipped saws at 1 turn out for both H and L sides IIRC. The settings recomended for the C/XP series saws in the Homelite and Clymer books are WAY too lean and could cause engine damage...
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C5 Fight.
Pump diaphram and gasket on in wrong order.
He do run much better now.
I must have been asleep at the wheel putting that Tilly HL together.
I better look at my other C5...................................................................:msp_ohmy:
Pump diaphram and gasket on in wrong order.
He do run much better now.
I must have been asleep at the wheel putting that Tilly HL together.
I better look at my other C5...................................................................:msp_ohmy:
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
Zip Cookie Cut
[video=youtube;EtOmgc9eIlY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtOmgc9eIlY[/video]
Cutting with my new (to me) ZIP.
[video=youtube;EtOmgc9eIlY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtOmgc9eIlY[/video]
Cutting with my new (to me) ZIP.
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ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
Got this one a few weeks ago, thought I would show you guys.
It was a freebie, just been parked for along time over a bad friction shoe.
Cleaned it up, fixed the starter and sealed up the fuel tank leak and its a good runner now.
You say "fixed the starter". I have a C-7 that runs great. Just the last few times I went to fire her up, the starter would engage into the flywheel, but it would take 2 minutes for the rope to engage all the way back into the starter. So I took off the starter and it still took to minutes to go all the way back in. Sprayed some PB Blaster down in there and work it in. Recoil does what it is suppose to now but for some reason the paws will not engage on that wheel. Not sure whats wrong here.
The friction washers do not want any lubricant on them. Take it plumb apart, clean everything and only a dab of Lubriplate on the spindle. Recoil springs like to be clean and dry or they will trap sawdust and get wonky. File the engagement end of the 'shoe' at 45 deg. sharp edge. Do not make them shorter or bend them.
Put together properly, the dogs will engage with only a quarter turn of the pulley.
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huck01955
ArboristSite Guru
Very nice saw :msp_thumbup:
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
If you are talking about that blue C-5, that would be Mark's saw. My C-7 is this red one. View attachment 268276
