Homelite Chainsaws

[excess650]

You're referring to the 'deflector' on the XL-923? It's just a 'spitback collector' (catches some of the fuel spit back out of the carb of reed valve saws......to be sucked back in) and isn't really needed. It just keeps the carb box a little cleaner/dryer.

I was referring to the C-52, but if it isn't needed, I won't worry about it.

I strongly suggest you rebuild the carbs and replace the fuel lines and filters on both saws. I have lines and filter on order for the 923. I'll have to get carb kits for both. Am I correct in thinking that I'll have to pull the fuel tank apart ont heC-52 to replace the lines?



As far as the 7/8 tooth question........what pitch chain are you going to run? I was thinking that I wanted to run a short, fat .404 on the C-52. It had been converted to 3/8, and had a red clutch cover and bar like the XL923. Both your C-52 and XL-923 will easily pull 3/8-8 on 20-24" bars. I would NOT recommend that you run .404-8 on either of them (stick with 7 tooth with .404). A 3/8-8 rim is about the same diameter as a .404-7 rim BTW.I fully intended to run 3/8 on the 923, but wondered about 7 vs 8. It sounds like 8 will work, so now to decide what length bar to get.

Strangely enough, I believe the three shoe clutch on the XL-700/800/900 series saws is the HD unit. My SXL-925 IPL states that the 3 shoe clutch was used on the SXL-925W (the "Western" version, with the full wrap handlebar......and intended for the PNW market where longer bars were usually used). My Western is so equipped. hmmmmm



The 77/82cc XL700/800/900 series saws used both 3 and 6 shoe clutches. They are completely different clutch setups (the 3 and the 6), with different clutch hubs, shoes, and drums.I knew the 3 shoe took a different drum than the 6 shoe, but had read a reference "somewhere" that the 6 shoe was the HD upgrade..

The C-series and Zip series used a different clutch setup than the XL700-900 series. Those large frame Homelites can also be found with 3 and 6 shoe clutches. However, with these large frame saws, they simply omitted every other clutch shoe to make a 3 shoe clutch (using the same clutch hub, shoes, and drum). This seems to only be on the C-5/51/52 and probably the Zip. It looks really weird (like something's missing), but that's the way they did it.

I believe the larger C-series saws (C-7/71/72 and C-9/91) had all six shoes installed from the factory. Same with the XP-Series saws (which are a continuation of the C-Series) The C-Series IPL's I've seen also state that C-5/51/52 saws outfitted with the gear drive conversion clutch cover should be equipped with all six shoes...

The six shoe on the gear drive would make sense in that it would put more clutch in contact with the drum to prevent slippage. That seems counterintuitive to the 3 shoe on the 9xxW...

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Am I correct in thinking that I'll have to pull the fuel tank apart ont heC-52 to replace the lines?

...

not necessarily.
you could try mounting the new line without pulling the cover by using a wire through the line to pull it on the inside nipple. i've done that on saws where the tank can't be split and it is a pita. not to mention that you never know how much of the line is actually on the nipple.
pulling the front cover has several advantages. it allows you to clean the junk out of the tank, allows you to inspect the tank for pinholes and corrosion, and allows you to EASILY replace the in-tank line and filter. when putting the cover back on you don't need a gasket (per the homelite shop manual). just use some gas resistant gasket maker such as permatex motoseal. mine has not sprung any leaks for the 6 months i've had it back together. just got to make sure the surfaces are squeaky clean

 

[cbfarmall]

not necessarily.
you could try mounting the new line without pulling the cover by using a wire through the line to pull it on the inside nipple. i've done that on saws where the tank can't be split and it is a pita. not to mention that you never know how much of the line is actually on the nipple.
pulling the front cover has several advantages. it allows you to clean the junk out of the tank, allows you to inspect the tank for pinholes and corrosion, and allows you to EASILY replace the in-tank line and filter. when putting the cover back on you don't need a gasket (per the homelite shop manual). just use some gas resistant gasket maker such as permatex motoseal. mine has not sprung any leaks for the 6 months i've had it back together. just got to make sure the surfaces are squeaky clean

Why not unbolt the fuel tank assembly and unscrew the fuel line fitting from the backside? Pretty to install a new tank line that way.

Of course, if you want to clean the tank you'll need to split it.

Chris B.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Why not unbolt the fuel tank assembly and unscrew the fuel line fitting from the backside? Pretty to install a new tank line that way.

Of course, if you want to clean the tank you'll need to split it.

Chris B.

maybe you've had better results than me but i always end up with rounded off corners when i try with a socket.

 

[Eccentric]

The six shoe on the gear drive would make sense in that it would put more clutch in contact with the drum to prevent slippage. That seems counterintuitive to the 3 shoe on the 9xxW...

The three shoe clutch on the XL-900 series saw has basically the same amount of contact area on the drum as the six shoe clutch. The shoes on the three setup are roughly twice as wide (contacting twice the circumference of the inner surface of the drum) as the shoes in the six setup.

On the C-Series clutches (three and six shoe configurations), the clutch hub/spider and shoes are the same parts used in both configurations. The three shoe setup simply omits every other shoe. There are three 'shoe sized' gaps where nothing is contacting the surface of the drum. This means that the C-series three shoe setup has 1/2 the contact area that the six shoe configuration has. I wish I had pics to show you. If you still have trouble grasping what I'm saying, I'll pull the clutch covers on a couple of my saws and shoot some pics for you.

Jerry and Chris have answered your C-series line replacement question. I'll add my $.02 based on my experience. The tank fitting sometimes will easily unscrew. When that happens, you're in luck as you can just put the new line and filter on the fitting and thread it back inside the tank. I like to mark the 'down' side of the fitting as it's in the tank (before unscrewing it) with a sharpie. This way, I can put the line on the fitting in such a way that the 'natural curve' of the line (from being in a roll) goes down to the bottom of the tank.

Other times, the fitting is pretty well locked into the tank by corrosion, and it just plain don't wanna come out. Then you have to either remove the cover (dealing with those fragile little screws) or use a piece of wire or fishing line to guide the tubing onto the fitting from the inside of the tank. A hemostat can help push the line onto the fitting.

I use 3/16" ID automotive fuel line from the tank fitting to the carb. The OD of this line seals well against the pass through hole in the carb box........keep dust from being sucked in through there.

 

[WillBrayJr]

Just scored me a Super-2 for $40.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

maybe you've had better results than me but i always end up with rounded off corners when i try with a socket.

You need to use a 6 point socket.

 

[cbfarmall]

You need to use a 6 point socket.

On a 3/8" ratchet with a long handle. 1/4" drive wouldn't cut it on mine.

Chris B.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

You need to use a 6 point socket.

yep. tried that.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

...pulling the front cover has several advantages. it allows you to clean the junk out of the tank, allows you to inspect the tank for pinholes and corrosion, and allows you to EASILY replace the in-tank line and filter. when putting the cover back on you don't need a gasket (per the homelite shop manual). just use some gas resistant gasket maker such as permatex motoseal. mine has not sprung any leaks for the 6 months i've had it back together. just got to make sure the surfaces are squeaky clean

meant to also say that you should use some kroil on those little screws before twisting on them. i've also had to drill em out too.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

I bought a set of these fitting wrenches years ago and they never fail.

SnapOn 5 Piece Flare Nut Double End Line Fitting Wrenche Set RXFS605B | eBay

 

[lesorubcheek]

You need to use a 6 point socket.

:msp_thumbup: Agreed. I have good luck with a deep well 6 point socket. Also found it helps to heat the area before starting. Got a Milwaukee variable temp heat a while back and use it all the time on stuck threads. Of course since its a fuel tank, make sure its washed out well and either the cap is removed or the tank has been split so no hospital visits are in the future.

Dan

 

[ChainLightning]

Thanks Aaron. Without you on here probably more than half of this stuff would not get fixed right :msp_biggrin:

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks Aaron. Without you on here probably more than half of this stuff would not get fixed right :msp_biggrin:

Thanks. You give me too much credit. I help when I can. Many other guys here do the same.

 

[ChainLightning]

Thanks. You give me too much credit. I help when I can. Many other guys here do the same.

A lot of others on here do a lot too. I started collecting in what 2011? And I probably know about 10 years worth of knowledge just from hanging around on these Homelite and McCulloch threads.

 

[fossil]

Thanks. You give me too much credit.

I don't think so.

 

[8433jeff]

You guys keep it up, and the bears head isn't going to fit in the scout any more.

 

[67L36Driver]

You guys keep it up, and the bears head isn't going to fit in the scout any more.

Don't feed the bears............................................................................

 

[Warped5]

Resist ...... reeee-sist ...................

 

[8433jeff]

He does have these saws down. Tractors, not so much.