Homelite Chainsaws

[ChainLightning]

Ok I will go look up some of these and see what I can remember.

Ok so I looked around on the web and I am pretty sure it was a C-51. Now maybe some day I will have the extra cash to buy one, kind of for nostalgia's sake more than anything else.

The one day that I randomly get on Craigslist and a guy has a C-5 and a Remington Super 754 on there with most of the paint left on them each for $10 a piece. I called him as soon as I could only to be told that they were just sold 5 minutes ago

 

[8433jeff]

AAARRRRRRRR

You did'nt brake the you Suck O meter you own it. :msp_biggrin:
Now just send that 797 to me if you have'nt already.




Lee

And to save the springs on the chero I will take one of the other two. You decide. HINT >>>>>>>>>>>>

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Anyone have any experience adding the manual oiler to a Super XL Auto? The saw I just got going has the block off plug but has a single copper line that runs from the oiler to the bottom of the manual oiler cavity. My parts saw had a manual only oiler setup and was wondering is it as simple as pull the plug and pop the plunger assembly in to get a manual add on? I know they were a dealer add on like the bucking spike thus it couldn't have been a bunch of work. I would think that you need two lines, a supply and then a pressure, but maybe I'm wrong. Any one of you that have been around these more than care to shed some light on this?

 

[ChainLightning]

Anyone have any experience adding the manual oiler to a Super XL Auto? The saw I just got going has the block off plug but has a single copper line that runs from the oiler to the bottom of the manual oiler cavity. My parts saw had a manual only oiler setup and was wondering is it as simple as pull the plug and pop the plunger assembly in to get a manual add on? I know they were a dealer add on like the bucking spike thus it couldn't have been a bunch of work. I would think that you need two lines, a supply and then a pressure, but maybe I'm wrong. Any one of you that have been around these more than care to shed some light on this?

I am assuming that yours is one of the blue ones because I have seen a ton of those blocked off with a screw. You said it already has a copper line running to it so you should only need the plunger in there. I have never did this but I doubt it is as simple as just sticking a new plunger in without getting your hands dirty, unless that plunger assembly threads in where the screw was. Never had to piss with the Homelite manual oilers out of the many I have dealt with, they have all worked. If it does not thread in, take off the carb box/trigger handle and look it over good. You might need to take something apart to slip in the plunger. I am sure someone that has done this will help you out soon.

 

[diggers_dad]

Vintage Homelite Stuff

Gentlemen,

I have a few parts some of you may be interested in. Nothing spectacular, but maybe it's something you need to finish that project. I received this at very low cost so just need shipping and a couple of bucks to cover my costs. I ran across an older gentleman who tended to keep most of the spare parts he accumulated and he was a die hard Homelite guy. I have no idea if any of this stuff is rare, common, good, bad or otherwise. I'm pretty sure it's all Homelite. If you see something you're interested in let me know and we'll work something out. I'm not trying to make a profit here, just sharing some old saw parts to someone who will appreciate them.

There were too many pieces to do individually, so I took a couple of pictures in groups. I have the stuff laid out as seen in the photos in my basement. If you need measurements, better photos, etc let me know. I stay busy so PM me and give me a little while to respond.

 

[ChainLightning]

Gentlemen,

I have a few parts some of you may be interested in. Nothing spectacular, but maybe it's something you need to finish that project. I received this at very low cost so just need shipping and a couple of bucks to cover my costs. I ran across an older gentleman who tended to keep most of the spare parts he accumulated and he was a die hard Homelite guy. I have no idea if any of this stuff is rare, common, good, bad or otherwise. I'm pretty sure it's all Homelite. If you see something you're interested in let me know and we'll work something out. I'm not trying to make a profit here, just sharing some old saw parts to someone who will appreciate them.

There were too many pieces to do individually, so I took a couple of pictures in groups. I have the stuff laid out as seen in the photos in my basement. If you need measurements, better photos, etc let me know. I stay busy so PM me and give me a little while to respond.

Those cranks look like XL-12 cranks and the rest of the stuff looks like it belongs to mainly SEZ autos and the SXLs and XL-12s scattered witha few Super 2/XL parts. Do those pistons happen to be 41cc SEZ auto pistons? I can't really tell from that pic. Probably SXL slugs.

 

[diggers_dad]

Those cranks look like XL-12 cranks and the rest of the stuff looks like it belongs to mainly SEZ autos and the SXLs and XL-12s scattered witha few Super 2/XL parts. Do those pistons happen to be 41cc SEZ auto pistons? I can't really tell from that pic. Probably SXL slugs.

Sorry about that. The larger pistons measure 51 mm by my cheap calipers and the smaller one is 30 mm.

I wouldn't have even included the trimmer P/C and crank in the second photo, but it was complete and looked good from the exhaust port.

dd

 

[8433jeff]

Thinking the pistons are from C-5 series, and the clutches along the bottom middle are three shoe from those and the XL-900 and their ancestors.
Homelite kept using what they could, it seems to me. And didn't change the part number 16 times, like them yellow saw peoples did more than once.
Although they liked to change/update the model designation.

 

[ChainLightning]

Sorry about that. The larger pistons measure 51 mm by my cheap calipers and the smaller one is 30 mm.

I wouldn't have even included the trimmer P/C and crank in the second photo, but it was complete and looked good from the exhaust port.

dd

Yea I was gonna say that other piston and crank did not look like it belonged in there . Thanks anyways

 

[67L36Driver]

I see two Remington Bantam type clutchs front center(ish) and Bantam sprocket (has a hub a seal rides on. Another Remy sprocket/drum right front corner.

Is the crank-rod-piston assembly a Super 2? 1.4375" bore.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Sorry about that. The larger pistons measure 51 mm by my cheap calipers and the smaller one is 30 mm.

I wouldn't have even included the trimmer P/C and crank in the second photo, but it was complete and looked good from the exhaust port.

dd

Just to jump in a moment Digger I just sent you a PM I have noooo Idea what the heck happened ,ha ha ha sorry about the jump.Jeff

 

[sawnami]

Picked this one up today. Never had the bucking spike bolted on. Bought it from the original owner. All I need now is a 550 to complete the series.:smile2:

 

[metalspec]

Picked this one up today. Never had the bucking spike bolted on. Bought it from the original owner. All I need now is a 550 to complete the series.:smile2:

Beautiful 450! Nice saw! Looks new! I only need a 650...

 

[Eccentric]

Now I remember why I don't like XL2/Super2 saws....

Just got back in after going through an early mag-cased, two-trigger XL2 today. It's so old that it has a Walbro HDC carburetor and no UT# or Lot # (just a serial #). Belongs to a 'work buddy' of a good friend of mine. I don't like working on these saws, but agreed to fix this one as a favor to my friend. He was persistent.................and put it in my pickup bed TWICE one day when we were out cutting. I'd put it back in his trailer after the first time...

The damn thing was FILTHY. Working on these saws (for those that don't know) means pulling the engine out of the case, and cleaning all the saw cake (that builds up around the carb and everything else) out while it's apart. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel tank vent check valve, oiler lines, and oil tank check valve. Got it all cleaned up and back together. Fired it up............and it smokes like a bug fogger (and acts like it has an air leak). That means that the auto oiler pump diaphragm is shot. Crap....

Gotta find a diaphragm (should be some on feebay....seen 'em before), get it shipped here, and then tear the damn saw apart again so I can swap it in. These saws are NOT fun to work on. Not as bad as a mini-mac, but still a PITA. I've told my friend that I will NOT work on that guy's saws anymore unless he blows the damn things out with an air compressor from time to time...

After disassembly, cleanup, and carb rebuild. Putting in new lines and check valves (duckbills). Cleaned about 1/4" of melted fuel line good from the bottom of the fuel tank.

Old chewing gum lines, munged up fuel filter, and dead carb diaphragms/gaskets.

Going back together.

All together. Air clearing out after smoking up the shop. Now to find an oiler diapragm...

Edit:

Anybody here know whether the 69242 diaphragm/plunger (# in the IPL for this early XL2) is the same as the later 12356 (and 12356A, 12356B, 12356C) diaphragm/plunger? I've only been able to find the 12356 variants on the bay (and sheesh.......they're expensive)...

 

[67L36Driver]

Aaron: Can you just skip the diaphram plunger (metering?) pump and plumb him like an XL?

Plug the passage under the pump cover.

 

[diggers_dad]

Bumping this up in case someone missed it. A couple of things are spoken for, but most still available.

dd

Gentlemen,

I have a few parts some of you may be interested in. Nothing spectacular, but maybe it's something you need to finish that project. I received this at very low cost so just need shipping and a couple of bucks to cover my costs. I ran across an older gentleman who tended to keep most of the spare parts he accumulated and he was a die hard Homelite guy. I have no idea if any of this stuff is rare, common, good, bad or otherwise. I'm pretty sure it's all Homelite. If you see something you're interested in let me know and we'll work something out. I'm not trying to make a profit here, just sharing some old saw parts to someone who will appreciate them.

There were too many pieces to do individually, so I took a couple of pictures in groups. I have the stuff laid out as seen in the photos in my basement. If you need measurements, better photos, etc let me know. I stay busy so PM me and give me a little while to respond.

 

[Eccentric]

Aaron: Can you just skip the diaphram plunger (metering?) pump and plumb him like an XL?

Plug the passage under the pump cover.

I was thinking that myself. Will see what the owner wants to do. I could run a longer oil supply line (which was plumbed to the diaphragm pump) over to the bar pad (which was fed from the diaphragm pump), and use a setscrew or similar to plug the impulse passage from the crankcase to the diaphragm chamber. Should work fine. Otherwise it'll be another $15-$20 for the diaphragm/plunger. Either way, the saw's gotta come apart again....

 

[Warped5]

Replacing the molded fuel line in an XL-870 today. The grommet used to seal the line against the side of the tank is giving me fits; it just doesn't want to go in there. I am pulling on the end in the end in an attempt to 'stretch out' the grommet to slide into place. Also using the blunt end of a toothbrush at the same time to try to persuade the grommet into place, no dice.

 

[Eccentric]

Replacing the molded fuel line in an XL-870 today. The grommet used to seal the line against the side of the tank is giving me fits; it just doesn't want to go in there. I am pulling on the end in the end in an attempt to 'stretch out' the grommet to slide into place. Also using the blunt end of a toothbrush at the same time to try to persuade the grommet into place, no dice.

Didja smear some 2-stroke oil around the outside of the grommet? Also, carefully heating them a bit (say with a hair dryer) can make them more cooperative....

 

[Warped5]

Didja smear some 2-stroke oil around the outside of the grommet? Also, carefully heating them a bit (say with a hair dryer) can make them more cooperative....

That thing is so oily, it's like a fresh eel .....