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My carb looks just like yours, I think I have everything right under the cover plate. The check valve only allows fuel on direction and doesn't allow air or fuel to return. I ned to fiddle with the screen to get it in right, very hard to see. Thanks a bunch
Here is another example of a fixed jet sdc . The jet feeds the check valve and the vavle screw into the port.
 

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Have any pics Rick? Is it a rear-handle saw with an air filter cover at the top/rear of the saw? If it's the saw I'm thinking of, then it's a VI (Vibration Isolation.....Homelite's term for AV) version of an E-Z or Super E-Z. Some had chainbrakes. A fellow posted pics of a sweet one here a couple of pages back. They're a little saw (2.1 or 2.5ci, 34.4 or 41cc) with a lot of 'attitude'. They run like they think they're much bigger. They take the same bars as the mid-size Husqvarnas. Look for a bar that's spec'd for a 257 or a 262 Husky.

If it instead is a tiny little 'clamshell-cased' top-handle saw with a little foam air filter in the front, then it's of the XL2/Super2 family. 30-ish cc saws. Some guys love 'em. I'm not real enthused. They are pretty dang reliable. I have a friend who calls 'em "bics" after the cheap but reliable cig lighters and pens.
I picked one up at a yard sale last summer for $10. Serial number 23322172 and it just says model E-Z. Going through cleanup now. Has good spark so now I just need to remove old fuel and try to fire it up. Any suggestions to get her going?
 

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I picked one up at a yard sale last summer for $10. Serial number 23322172 and it just says model E-Z. Going through cleanup now. Has good spark so now I just need to remove old fuel and try to fire it up. Any suggestions to get her going?
It was built between 1969-1974, yours looks like a 1972 model, 34.4 cc. Replace fuel lines with modern tygon or equivalent, new fuel filter and install a new carb kit. New spark plug Champion DJ-6J. Make sure it has a good rim sprocket or hub on it, no deep intentions It should have the Tillotson HL104A carb on it which takes the RK-88HL repair kit available on eBay. If it has a Walbro carb it probably takes the K10-HDC kit. If you get to remove the muffler and clean the carbon out, you might want to check the condition of the piston rings, and cylinder. A compression test will tell you the most, must be over 90 psi to run preferably over 110 psi. You should be good
 
It was built between 1969-1974, yours looks like a 1972 model, 34.4 cc. Replace fuel lines with modern tygon or equivalent, new fuel filter and install a new carb kit. New spark plug Champion DJ-6J. Make sure it has a good rim sprocket or hub on it, no deep intentions It should have the Tillotson HL104A carb on it which takes the RK-88HL repair kit available on eBay. If it has a Walbro carb it probably takes the K10-HDC kit. If you get to remove the muffler and clean the carbon out, you might want to check the condition of the piston rings, and cylinder. A compression test will tell you the most, must be over 90 psi to run preferably over 110 psi. You should be good
I just replaced the fuel in the tank and put fresh in it and it fired right up. Wow what a surprise for a $10 saw. Chain, bar and sprocket look fine. I will cut some wood with it this weekend to see how it holds up but it did fire up and run fine and it did idle so we will see how it handles a load this weekend. Thanks so much for your response oologahan. Fingers crossed.
 
It was built between 1969-1974, yours looks like a 1972 model, 34.4 cc. Replace fuel lines with modern tygon or equivalent, new fuel filter and install a new carb kit. New spark plug Champion DJ-6J. Make sure it has a good rim sprocket or hub on it, no deep intentions It should have the Tillotson HL104A carb on it which takes the RK-88HL repair kit available on eBay. If it has a Walbro carb it probably takes the K10-HDC kit. If you get to remove the muffler and clean the carbon out, you might want to check the condition of the piston rings, and cylinder. A compression test will tell you the most, must be over 90 psi to run preferably over 110 psi. You should be good
I'm very sure those do not have HL series Tillotson carbs in them, more likely an HS.
 
I just replaced the fuel in the tank and put fresh in it and it fired right up. Wow what a surprise for a $10 saw. Chain, bar and sprocket look fine. I will cut some wood with it this weekend to see how it holds up but it did fire up and run fine and it did idle so we will see how it handles a load this weekend. Thanks so much for your response oologahan. Fingers crossed.
It doesn't look like it was used much or hard. Those aren't very common, most I see are red EZ or EZ Automatics. Good luck
 
I'm very sure those do not have HL series Tillotson carbs in them, more likely an HS.
I got the info from Mike Acres site and it did give me a moment to wonder, but I think you're right, it can't be the the HL series, they were generally used on the much larger saws. It would be hard to figure a HL carb on a 34.4cc saw. Mike may have been confused with late 50s EZ saw. All the parts manuals show the carb on the EZ and EZ auto was actually the Walbro HDC-4 which takes the K10-HDC kit.
 
What solution do you guys think is best for cleaning a carb and do you blow it out?
depends on how bad the carb is..... sometimes I just use brake cleaner to spray out all the passages, other times they get dipped in "carb cleaner" which is a truly nasty chemical, but it works really well.

I used to blow out carbs with compressed air, but I learned that some have check valves in them that can be damaged by that, so I tend to not blow directly on them anymore.
 
I'm an ultra sonic cleaner guy. Usually just use Blue Dawn and a splash of Pine-Sol for a few heated cycles then rinse in clean water and gently blow dry with the compressor. A little WD40 on the springs, shafts, and plate screws, (along with a new kit) = new carb (in most cases).
 
I'm debating replacing this flywheel due to two broken fins, they are at 10 and 2 o'clock positions what do you guys think?
 

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