oologahan
ArboristSite Operative
Good price, my collection is entirely Homelite auto oilers, it's the only way I've been able to curb my buying, lolSpotted locally, nice xl-12(?) for 55 worthless Canadian dollars.View attachment 804738
Good price, my collection is entirely Homelite auto oilers, it's the only way I've been able to curb my buying, lolSpotted locally, nice xl-12(?) for 55 worthless Canadian dollars.View attachment 804738
Here is another example of a fixed jet sdc . The jet feeds the check valve and the vavle screw into the port.My carb looks just like yours, I think I have everything right under the cover plate. The check valve only allows fuel on direction and doesn't allow air or fuel to return. I ned to fiddle with the screen to get it in right, very hard to see. Thanks a bunch
Thank youHere is another example of a fixed jet sdc . The jet feeds the check valve and the vavle screw into the port.
I picked one up at a yard sale last summer for $10. Serial number 23322172 and it just says model E-Z. Going through cleanup now. Has good spark so now I just need to remove old fuel and try to fire it up. Any suggestions to get her going?Have any pics Rick? Is it a rear-handle saw with an air filter cover at the top/rear of the saw? If it's the saw I'm thinking of, then it's a VI (Vibration Isolation.....Homelite's term for AV) version of an E-Z or Super E-Z. Some had chainbrakes. A fellow posted pics of a sweet one here a couple of pages back. They're a little saw (2.1 or 2.5ci, 34.4 or 41cc) with a lot of 'attitude'. They run like they think they're much bigger. They take the same bars as the mid-size Husqvarnas. Look for a bar that's spec'd for a 257 or a 262 Husky.
If it instead is a tiny little 'clamshell-cased' top-handle saw with a little foam air filter in the front, then it's of the XL2/Super2 family. 30-ish cc saws. Some guys love 'em. I'm not real enthused. They are pretty dang reliable. I have a friend who calls 'em "bics" after the cheap but reliable cig lighters and pens.
It was built between 1969-1974, yours looks like a 1972 model, 34.4 cc. Replace fuel lines with modern tygon or equivalent, new fuel filter and install a new carb kit. New spark plug Champion DJ-6J. Make sure it has a good rim sprocket or hub on it, no deep intentions It should have the Tillotson HL104A carb on it which takes the RK-88HL repair kit available on eBay. If it has a Walbro carb it probably takes the K10-HDC kit. If you get to remove the muffler and clean the carbon out, you might want to check the condition of the piston rings, and cylinder. A compression test will tell you the most, must be over 90 psi to run preferably over 110 psi. You should be goodI picked one up at a yard sale last summer for $10. Serial number 23322172 and it just says model E-Z. Going through cleanup now. Has good spark so now I just need to remove old fuel and try to fire it up. Any suggestions to get her going?
I just replaced the fuel in the tank and put fresh in it and it fired right up. Wow what a surprise for a $10 saw. Chain, bar and sprocket look fine. I will cut some wood with it this weekend to see how it holds up but it did fire up and run fine and it did idle so we will see how it handles a load this weekend. Thanks so much for your response oologahan. Fingers crossed.It was built between 1969-1974, yours looks like a 1972 model, 34.4 cc. Replace fuel lines with modern tygon or equivalent, new fuel filter and install a new carb kit. New spark plug Champion DJ-6J. Make sure it has a good rim sprocket or hub on it, no deep intentions It should have the Tillotson HL104A carb on it which takes the RK-88HL repair kit available on eBay. If it has a Walbro carb it probably takes the K10-HDC kit. If you get to remove the muffler and clean the carbon out, you might want to check the condition of the piston rings, and cylinder. A compression test will tell you the most, must be over 90 psi to run preferably over 110 psi. You should be good
I'm very sure those do not have HL series Tillotson carbs in them, more likely an HS.It was built between 1969-1974, yours looks like a 1972 model, 34.4 cc. Replace fuel lines with modern tygon or equivalent, new fuel filter and install a new carb kit. New spark plug Champion DJ-6J. Make sure it has a good rim sprocket or hub on it, no deep intentions It should have the Tillotson HL104A carb on it which takes the RK-88HL repair kit available on eBay. If it has a Walbro carb it probably takes the K10-HDC kit. If you get to remove the muffler and clean the carbon out, you might want to check the condition of the piston rings, and cylinder. A compression test will tell you the most, must be over 90 psi to run preferably over 110 psi. You should be good
It doesn't look like it was used much or hard. Those aren't very common, most I see are red EZ or EZ Automatics. Good luckI just replaced the fuel in the tank and put fresh in it and it fired right up. Wow what a surprise for a $10 saw. Chain, bar and sprocket look fine. I will cut some wood with it this weekend to see how it holds up but it did fire up and run fine and it did idle so we will see how it handles a load this weekend. Thanks so much for your response oologahan. Fingers crossed.
I got the info from Mike Acres site and it did give me a moment to wonder, but I think you're right, it can't be the the HL series, they were generally used on the much larger saws. It would be hard to figure a HL carb on a 34.4cc saw. Mike may have been confused with late 50s EZ saw. All the parts manuals show the carb on the EZ and EZ auto was actually the Walbro HDC-4 which takes the K10-HDC kit.I'm very sure those do not have HL series Tillotson carbs in them, more likely an HS.
Sorry only old blue metal ones.Hi fellas anyone have a good clean XL12 air filter cover with nut? The black plastic cover
Thanks in advance
New ones are 42 dollars on eBay, this used plastic one is 20 bucks, you can use a metal one too I believe.Hi fellas anyone have a good clean XL12 air filter cover with nut? The black plastic cover
Thanks in advance
depends on how bad the carb is..... sometimes I just use brake cleaner to spray out all the passages, other times they get dipped in "carb cleaner" which is a truly nasty chemical, but it works really well.What solution do you guys think is best for cleaning a carb and do you blow it out?
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