How To Become A Chainsaw Guru?

[Ambull01]

great 1st. post..made me laugh..
you'll get along just fine here....

i see your 1st. post was over two hours ago..
do you have a ported pro saw yet ???? lol.

Dude, I would so port it if I had a clue what it does and how to do it.

 

[Ambull01]

Personaly I recomend for average homeowner firewood cutter a 40 & 60cc combo. With that you can takle most jobs!

@Philbert,
Thanks for the link! As usual reliable like a swiss watch!

7

True. I guess I have to go with the CS 590. Or I could get the 5020AV and the CS 590 TW then use my Homelite as my guinea pig/chainsaw repair patient.

 

[7sleeper]

Dude, I would so port it if I had a clue what it does and how to do it.

Just send it to randy and save your money instead of getting a new saw....



7

 

[Ambull01]

Just send it to randy and save your money instead of getting a new saw....



7

Wait a minute, are you talking about porting the crappy Homelite? Wouldn't that be like putting a huge muffler on a four cylinder Honda Civic?

 

[Ambull01]

Great.

Just started reading the material on the BC website. I'll probably never cut down another tree again. Reading about all the potential dangers just sole my courage/motivation. Guess I'll stick to things already on the ground and less than 8" in diameter.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Wait a minute, are you talking about porting the crappy Homelite? Wouldn't that be like putting a huge muffler on a four cylinder Honda Civic?

Supercharger on a Borgward.

 

[Mastermind]

Don't be afraid.......just start small and work up.

 

[MCW]

The best bit of information about this site that I can give you is this

 

[Ambull01]

Supercharger on a Borgward.

Is that a good thing or not so good thing? Or is it similar to a big muffler on a Civic?

Don't be afraid.......just start small and work up.

That sounds reasonable.

 

[zogger]

Oh, another thing about that Homelite. I don't really remember exactly when I bought it. Probably somewhere between '08-'10. Had no idea you're supposed to drain the fuel when storing for a long period of time, never heard of the damage ethanol can do, used car motor oil instead of bar oil, etc. That thing is still kicking! Only issue I had is the fuel line and filter somehow broke off in the gas tank. I bought a cheap replacement from a hardware store and fixed it. That started the whole obsession with chainsaws and maintenance/repair.

Just keep plugging away and practice. Do easy trees first, then you can start doing the more difficult ones. I was a one small saw guy for decades, but since joining here I have upped my fleet (Ha!), plus learned a TON from the discussions on technique, then going out and practicing. I am a much better sawyer today.

Philbert has provided a lot of links, pay attention to them, all good.

If you got the scratch, the cs590 is pro built, split magnesium case, etc. The echo 620 is an even better built design in that same size/family, but you pay for it. The cs600 was their original one, so they stuck a cheaper one on one side, price point sawm, then a more advanced one on the other side. So you have three choices there, think of it like the options on a new ride...

The poulan is stratocharged (good modern design as regards fuel usage/economy/clean burning) and a decent saw as well, especially for two hundred out the door, but the echo is more power for a similar size package and weight. Once you got some cords under your belt, you will get a "Tim the Toolman" outlook on that.....

Biggest thing on chains is, do both sides the same, and no wiggling, nice even straight strokes with your file. Quality over quantity with file strokes. If you have a brand new chain to look at as you resharpen a used chain, that can help.

And then, with your wood cut, it needs splittin..mosey on over to firewood, and get in on the action there, the friendly discussions on axes and splitters..heheheheheheh

And the biggest thing on this site is..pics or it didn't happen!

 

[Ambull01]

Just keep plugging away and practice. Do easy trees first, then you can start doing the more difficult ones. I was a one small saw guy for decades, but since joining here I have upped my fleet (Ha!), plus learned a TON from the discussions on technique, then going out and practicing. I am a much better sawyer today.

Philbert has provided a lot of links, pay attention to them, all good.

If you got the scratch, the cs590 is pro built, split magnesium case, etc. The echo 620 is an even better built design in that same size/family, but you pay for it. The cs600 was their original one, so they stuck a cheaper one on one side, price point sawm, then a more advanced one on the other side. So you have three choices there, think of it like the options on a new ride...

The poulan is stratocharged (good modern design as regards fuel usage/economy/clean burning) and a decent saw as well, especially for two hundred out the door, but the echo is more power for a similar size package and weight. Once you got some cords under your belt, you will get a "Tim the Toolman" outlook on that.....

Biggest thing on chains is, do both sides the same, and no wiggling, nice even straight strokes with your file. Quality over quantity with file strokes. If you have a brand new chain to look at as you resharpen a used chain, that can help.

And then, with your wood cut, it needs splittin..mosey on over to firewood, and get in on the action there, the friendly discussions on axes and splitters..heheheheheheh

And the biggest thing on this site is..pics or it didn't happen!

To be honest, I may not have much of a chance to practice felling trees. I'm going to be a firewood scrounger so I assume most of wood I come across will already be on the ground. I'll just have to perfect my bucking and limbing technique.

Yeah I heard a lot of good stuff about the 590. I don't think I'll buy the more expensive Echo models, no real need for it. I don't really care if it takes me x amount of seconds longer to get through a log. It's strictly a hobby/winter fuel.

Probably shouldn't admit it here but I actually threw chains away once they were dull lol. Didn't trust myself sharpening them and for the price to get them professionally done I figured I'd just buy new ones.

I've been reading stuff there too. Also on the Homeowner Helper Forum. Great advice everywhere. This has to be one of the best sites I've ever come across. For splitting, I'm going to use the Fiskars X27 or whatever its called. My father in-law has a 22 ton splitter that I could use if I really needed it. I always enjoyed manual splitting though so I'll just do it the old fashioned way.

I've been searching Craigslist for some free wood. Found a lady about an hour away from me with supposedly oak that was cut down by a power company. Been lying in her yard since June I believe. They were supposed to return to get it but never did. Anyway, she says there's a lot of logs around 22" in diameter. I think my trusty little crappy Homelite could do it but it would be a workout. I used it to cut some big poplar, a oak, and an assortment of other trees but a row of hardwoods may be a bit too much. Plus I don't have a truck just an old '96 conversion van to haul it with. Could use my in-laws single axle trailer but I have National Guard training this weekend. AAhhhh! You ever get nervous about losing your potential free wood? Man I hope that lady holds it for me. May take multiple trips to get it all. Actually I'm not even sure if it's worth it to drive an hour for wood that will potentially take 2-3 years to fully season.

 

[treeslayer2003]

hi neighbor lol. where ya at on the shore? PM me if ya want.

 

[bayard]

if you are droping trees learn to put a rope on them.not hard or expensive a throw line and a 100 foot 1/2 inch bull rope and a truck or winch. safety first and practice..

 

[Ambull01]

hi neighbor lol. where ya at on the shore? PM me if ya want.

What's up chicken necker! Or are you a bona fide local? I'm in Queen Anne County. You?

if you are droping trees learn to put a rope on them.not hard or expensive a throw line and a 100 foot 1/2 inch bull rope and a truck or winch. safety first and practice..

Oh yeah, a winch sounds like a great idea! Although I'll have to read about how to operate the winch while I'm concentrating on cutting the tree. The average IQ of a logger must be insanely high. Trying to figure this stuff out makes me feel like a dumb@$$

 

[LegDeLimber]

I'm waiting to hear about you got your boot toes lowered.
Were you standing in the middle of a slash pile or something and couldn't get away in time?
Just curious.

 

[c5rulz]

Cut down one tree where the trunk actually fell straight down onto my toes! Luckily I was wearing some cheap Kmart steel toe boots and it just bent the plate vice crush my precious little piggies. Am I the definition of "stupid hurts?" I also had to us a handsaw to get my bar out of a Magnolia limb I was trying to cut up on a ladder (actually I was sitting in the tree). The limb pinched my bar and I couldn't get that sucker out no matter how much I pulled and yanked it. In hindsight, I can't believe I'm alive and still have all my arms and legs.

Oh my!

Well I am sure you have figured it out, but:
Never cut from a ladder
Never cut while in a tree, (unless you are an arborists and really know what you are doing)


Make friends with someone who is experienced and go with them a few times rather than blazing forth on your own.

 

[treeslayer2003]

What's up chicken necker! Or are you a bona fide local? I'm in Queen Anne County. You?



Oh yeah, a winch sounds like a great idea! Although I'll have to read about how to operate the winch while I'm concentrating on cutting the tree. The average IQ of a logger must be insanely high. Trying to figure this stuff out makes me feel like a dumb@$$

northern Dorchester born and raised..........also been a logger for 25 years here.

 

[zogger]

To be honest, I may not have much of a chance to practice felling trees. I'm going to be a firewood scrounger so I assume most of wood I come across will already be on the ground. I'll just have to perfect my bucking and limbing technique.

Yeah I heard a lot of good stuff about the 590. I don't think I'll buy the more expensive Echo models, no real need for it. I don't really care if it takes me x amount of seconds longer to get through a log. It's strictly a hobby/winter fuel.

Probably shouldn't admit it here but I actually threw chains away once they were dull lol. Didn't trust myself sharpening them and for the price to get them professionally done I figured I'd just buy new ones.

I've been reading stuff there too. Also on the Homeowner Helper Forum. Great advice everywhere. This has to be one of the best sites I've ever come across. For splitting, I'm going to use the Fiskars X27 or whatever its called. My father in-law has a 22 ton splitter that I could use if I really needed it. I always enjoyed manual splitting though so I'll just do it the old fashioned way.

I've been searching Craigslist for some free wood. Found a lady about an hour away from me with supposedly oak that was cut down by a power company. Been lying in her yard since June I believe. They were supposed to return to get it but never did. Anyway, she says there's a lot of logs around 22" in diameter. I think my trusty little crappy Homelite could do it but it would be a workout. I used it to cut some big poplar, a oak, and an assortment of other trees but a row of hardwoods may be a bit too much. Plus I don't have a truck just an old '96 conversion van to haul it with. Could use my in-laws single axle trailer but I have National Guard training this weekend. AAhhhh! You ever get nervous about losing your potential free wood? Man I hope that lady holds it for me. May take multiple trips to get it all. Actually I'm not even sure if it's worth it to drive an hour for wood that will potentially take 2-3 years to fully season.

I think you'll get it and do fine.
As for the hour;'s drive..only with a trailer, make the trips count. "Noodle" the bigger pieces to make lifting easier. Noodling is, cut piece laying on the ground, cut long ways right down with the grain. You get loooonggg chips then called noodles. Should be easy with a cs590 and a 20 inch bar on normal 16 inch blocked up wood. Also noodle nasty crotches and knots when hand splitting, no sense wearing yourself out and getting frustrated hand splitting when you have a saw. The fiskars flies in good clean straight wood..not so much with crotches and knots, use the saw. the fiskars also comes pre coated with teflon, but it eventually wears off, what I do is lightly spray the axe edge and sides with teflon spray, I get it at home despot, but you can order online as well, makers a big difference in not getting it stuck in a round and aids splitting. Well worth the 4 bucks a can. You can use the same on any axe or maul, helps a bunch, and keep it sharp.

Oh, split inside a tire! And use a low chopping block if possible.

OK, you grok "body armor" it's a good idea, with chainsawing, chaps or cutting pants, helmet, ear muffs, cutting boots..cheapest insurance you can buy, and the best insurance you can get is experience and keeping "situational awareness" as you cut. Biggest thing to remember is wood is always heavy and gravity *always* works, this helps you to read pinch points, etc. Just think, as you look at logs and trees, gravity is working, what happens when you remove wood-chips from cutting- from x location?

Grab some plastic felling wedges, you can use them blocking up big logs, slip them in the cut, the kerf, once past half way through or thereabouts, give em tap, helps to keep the bar from getting stuck.

Happy cutting and burning man, wood heat is the bestus! Try to get at least two years ahead, seasoning wood is like money in the bank accruing interest.

 

[treeslayer2003]

you need to learn to file, its not that hard and it will make the day go by so much nicer. we will help you with it if you get stuck.

 

[Ambull01]

I'm waiting to hear about you got your boot toes lowered.
Were you standing in the middle of a slash pile or something and couldn't get away in time?
Just curious.

It was back in '10 or '11 I believe. Anyway, here's how it went. No $hit there I was .... lol No seriously, I was cutting the tree from a knee. I had no idea about face notches, back cut, etc. Guess I saw you're supposed to cut out a chunk from where you want the tree to go so I did that. Then I started to cut the tree from the other side, still in the kneeling position. The tree had a lean toward my house (lets call it east) but a lot of the branches were toward the west. Tree was right along the fence of my yard, neighbor's shed and in ground pool was nearby as well. Never heard of a hinge so I kept cutting until I reached the notch. Trunk slide off the stump and landed directly on my foot. Top part of tree fell to the west and landed on the neighbor's pool fence. No damage, except my steel toe boots. Praise Jesus I wore the steel toes that day, usually didn't.

Oh my!

Well I am sure you have figured it out, but:
Never cut from a ladder
Never cut while in a tree, (unless you are an arborists and really know what you are doing)


Make friends with someone who is experienced and go with them a few times rather than blazing forth on your own.

Yep, if I only knew then what I know now I may still have those trusty $20 steel toe boots.

northern Dorchester born and raised..........also been a logger for 25 years here.

There's logging operations on the eastern shore? Sooo, ummm, you guys ever have firewood grade stuff you need to get rid of?