How To Become A Chainsaw Guru?

[RandyMac]

go 6 cubes

 

[Ambull01]

Here is one way to do the bucking cuts with compression at the cut points. I take one of the stout limbs, say 3-6 inches diameter, and make a square cut, then 16 inch down a long diagonal, then another square cut at another 16 in. I have two pieces to scarf later, not the best, but burnable. Now, those two pieces you have are wooden wedges. Figure out where a couple of bucking cuts will be on the log (using your fancy tape maybe...), and sledge hammer/ back of the maul them dudes in right slap under the cut. This will lift the log and relieve compression pressure. cut right down into them, chances are real good, zero binding, nice clean cuts. Then just retrieve the wedges and proceed down the log.

Really hammering in wedges in the kerf will lift a log as well, but I have found the wooden wedge underneath more sure and easy enough to do, given reasonably solid ground underneath.

When felling, I will lay some handy local smaller logs under the fall zone, so the trunk will eventually be suspended (if it looks necessary, judgement call, tree to tree).

I also cut down small, and fill my stacks with not only split wood, but small rounds. Lotta nice fun trigger time with a dinky saw, and some guys start with a pole saw to reach branches. You get a lot more wood out of the trees when you cut down small.

Oh that's a great idea. What the hell is a kerf? Googled it and it just says a small incision in a piece of wood.

Laying down logs under the fall zone is ingenious. I always like to cut logs when they're a bit off the ground. Makes it so much easier.

Yeah I'm going to use as much of the trees as possible.

So when the compression point is on top of the log, would you drive the wedges in from the bottom? Wait, that doesn't sound like it would work. Maybe use a plastic wedge up top in the back of the bar to keep the log from pinching. Never mind, I need to read more instead of guessing.

 

[Ambull01]

One reason for 2-saw plan: bigger (heavier) saw for felling and bucking the larger wood; smaller saw for limbing, where most of the work is for a firewooder. Having a GOOD (not a fake Homie) limbing saw reduces fatigue-factor, improving safety. No matter how you try, you will pinch the occasional bar. See where the second one comes in here?

Do take a serious look at the 42 cc and 50 cc Dolmar saws. Great saws, great prices, on Pro Quality saws, making stihl look bad.

Chain-sharpening is critical, as mentioned earlier. Safety-booster too, can greatly reduce reactive forces. No matter what, touch up a chain until it''s for-real sharp at least once per two fill-ups.

Chainsaws are very dangerous. (So is driving on the BQE.) Median injury: 125 stitches. Can hurt you really bad, if you allow it.

OTOH, trees are deadly. They can crush you in an instant, and are wildly unpredictable. Always be ready to move instantly, and LOOK UP! Never let yourself get complacent or "pose for animal-crackers".

Winch, chains and high-tensile tow-straps are a big plus. Big thumbs up for lots of 5" & 8" wedges.

Good attitude and open mind is what I'm seeing here. Best Wishes.

Oh I see. So it's just my craplite that doesn't make sense in the two saw plan. So ideally I would want something considerable lighter then the CS 590/bucking and felling saw. Makes sense.

Keep hearing about Dolmar. I'll have to research them. I've only heard about Husq, Stihl, Homelite, Echo, etc.

I've started to get into the practice of touching up my chain every tank full.

Pose for animal crackers? lmao. No idea what that means but that term is awesome!

 

[Ambull01]

Heck, I have 400 and don't even burn wood. I already had a dozen when I found this site so I can't entirely blame these guys.

Think I looked at a Studebaker truck up your way a few years ago.

What! Where do you keep them all? Are you a chainsaw hoarder? Damn, you must have had to build a special chainsaw storage building.

 

[Ambull01]

Oh hell no, I'm not buying a Dolmar. Those chainsaws cost more than my fireplace insert.

 

[CTYank]

Oh I see. So it's just my craplite that doesn't make sense in the two saw plan. So ideally I would want something considerable lighter then the CS 590/bucking and felling saw. Makes sense.

Keep hearing about Dolmar. I'll have to research them. I've only heard about Husq, Stihl, Homelite, Echo, etc.

I've started to get into the practice of touching up my chain every tank full.

Pose for animal crackers? lmao. No idea what that means but that term is awesome!

I was thinking of the ones who're obsessed with "selfies" where they might want to focus on not getting their butts killed. Poseurs.

Your insert must be a real cheapie. You know about low value with that pseudo-Homie POS.

Back in April, after hearing good stories here, I got a Dolmar PS-6100. It's taking a while to break in, a very good sign to me. It's a silky beast, and Dolmar's rating lf 4.5 hp seems realistic vice stihl's typical fiction. It handles a 24" bar nicely noodling sugar maple. For a pro-quality saw at $550 it makes a "comparable" stihl look like a rip-off. (Much better access for service, too. Much better.)

While picking up the 6100, at a GTG upstate NY, I tried out a Dolmar PS-421. Typically around $325. Very, very nice saw. Very powerjul, excellent A/V. Pro quality at the price of a stihl 250/251. Gimme a break! Too bad I have a 40 cc RedMax that I love.

I've not run Dolmar's PS-5105 yet. Check out the excellent reviews, for a $440 saw.

From saws I've auditioned under load, my bet is that you'd be delighted with a Dolmar PS-421 and an Ech0 CS-600. With proper care and exercise, they should outlast you. But do whatever it takes to be able to KEEP a chain razor-sharp. Best advice you've gotten.

 

[Ambull01]

I was thinking of the ones who're obsessed with "selfies" where they might want to focus on not getting their butts killed. Poseurs.

Your insert must be a real cheapie. You know about low value with that pseudo-Homie POS.

Back in April, after hearing good stories here, I got a Dolmar PS-6100. It's taking a while to break in, a very good sign to me. It's a silky beast, and Dolmar's rating lf 4.5 hp seems realistic vice stihl's typical fiction. It handles a 24" bar nicely noodling sugar maple. For a pro-quality saw at $550 it makes a "comparable" stihl look like a rip-off. (Much better access for service, too. Much better.)

While picking up the 6100, at a GTG upstate NY, I tried out a Dolmar PS-421. Typically around $325. Very, very nice saw. Very powerjul, excellent A/V. Pro quality at the price of a stihl 250/251. Gimme a break! Too bad I have a 40 cc RedMax that I love.

I've not run Dolmar's PS-5105 yet. Check out the excellent reviews, for a $440 saw.

From saws I've auditioned under load, my bet is that you'd be delighted with a Dolmar PS-421 and an Ech0 CS-600. With proper care and exercise, they should outlast you. But do whatever it takes to be able to KEEP a chain razor-sharp. Best advice you've gotten.

I have to admit, those Dolmars are freaking pretty saws! They look like they belong behind a glass case or something. I may be afraid to get one dirty.

Yeah it is pretty cheap I guess. It was free to me though. In-laws bought it for us as a house warming gift. No better house warming gift than a way to heat said house!

The Dolmar PS-421 sounds like it would be a good compliment to the Echo. The PS-5105 sounds nice too but it's more than the CS 590 with 10cc less.

Damn you guys have me thinking about just going all in and getting a 70cc saw already. Get a big @ss bar so there's no chance I get the the tip of the bar buried and/or a kickback.

 

[Philbert]

The Echo CS400 is also a nice saw for $300.

(See how easy it is to accumulate saws?)

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

The Echo CS400 is also a nice saw for $300.

(See how easy it is to accumulate saws?)

Philbert

lol, true. The smaller Dolmar would be too close in size to another limbing saw though. Will be hard to justify two smaller saws to the wife.

You guys must all be divorced with your 400 saws

 

[CTYank]

I have to admit, those Dolmars are freaking pretty saws! They look like they belong behind a glass case or something. I may be afraid to get one dirty.

Yeah it is pretty cheap I guess. It was free to me though. In-laws bought it for us as a house warming gift. No better house warming gift than a way to heat said house!

The Dolmar PS-421 sounds like it would be a good compliment to the Echo. The PS-5105 sounds nice too but it's more than the CS 590 with 10cc less.

Damn you guys have me thinking about just going all in and getting a 70cc saw already. Get a big @ss bar so there's no chance I get the the tip of the bar buried and/or a kickback.

Actually, it works the other way.

If a kerf is closing, threatening to pinch a bar, you pull it straight back, something you take into account in your stance, and the longer it is, the more likely it'll get pinched.

When a kickback occurs (and it's only a matter of when) the longer the bar the more torque (turning effort) it applies to the saw. Which you have to counteract.

The longer the bar, the more likely you'll be unable to monitor all of it, getting into trouble digging ditches.

I'd suggest that you use as short a bar as possible for those reasons & more. Less chain to file, too.

(For $20 more for the PS-421, I'd pass on the CS-400, all day, every day.)

 

[Ambull01]

Actually, it works the other way.

If a kerf is closing, threatening to pinch a bar, you pull it straight back, something you take into account in your stance, and the longer it is, the more likely it'll get pinched.

When a kickback occurs (and it's only a matter of when) the longer the bar the more torque (turning effort) it applies to the saw. Which you have to counteract.

The longer the bar, the more likely you'll be unable to monitor all of it, getting into trouble digging ditches.

I'd suggest that you use as short a bar as possible for those reasons & more. Less chain to file, too.

(For $20 more for the PS-421, I'd pass on the CS-400, all day, every day.)

Well that just shot down my big cc/bar idea. So I guess 16-20" will the the sweet spot for me.

Just noticed you have a 5020 as well. Not considering the quality of parts, looks, etc how does the 5020 stack up to the 6100? I realize the 6100 has 10 more cc and cost a whopping $340 more but just curious. If you were a 4 cord a year firewood cutter, would the 6100 be worth it? Assuming they're both reliable, is the aesthetic appeal more that much more for the 6100?

 

[Philbert]

You can't go just by the specs. YOU have to see how it feels to YOU for the type of cutting YOU will do. (See a pattern there?). Personal preference and comfort go a long way toward satisfaction.

Some people just like certain saws more.

Philbert

 

[cgraham1]

Damn you guys have me thinking about just going all in and getting a 70cc saw already.

I can't believe it took 4 pages to convince the OP he needs a 70cc.

Might as well bump it up to 79cc... 7900.

 

[stihlx8]

You are making this all too hard. Keep reading AS and buy some saws. Maybe 15-20 per year to start with. Then you won't have time to cut wood and all this felling and bucking nonsense won't matter. CAD at it's best.

 

[7sleeper]

lol, true. The smaller Dolmar would be too close in size to another limbing saw though. Will be hard to justify two smaller saws to the wife.

You guys must all be divorced with your 400 saws

That is the reason I tried to point you in the direction of a 60cc saw. You already have a small saw and eve though it is a cheapie, with proper maintenance (sharp chain, correct carb settings, etc.) you will have the lower field already covered.
You will be intimidated by a 60cc saw at first! But don't worry, most of your cuts will be lifting the saw onto the trunk and simply pulling the trigger. The main weight is resting on the trunk!
Further if the trunk is to big / crotched / gnarly to be split by hand, this is noodling.

http://www.google.at/url?q=http://m...twIwAw&usg=AFQjCNGW9JGX-OdvvgBU8s29s0XC72O3Xg

And above you asked how a winch and tree cutting can be performed all at the same time. I just use a come along and tension the tree into the diretion I want it to fall. With proper wedging technique you seldom really need it.

7

 

[Whiskers]

Better check out the fiskars x27 if you're splitting by hand. The "how I dropped a tree on my foot" story was a classic by the way. Still laughing imagining the scene.

 

[Guido Salvage]

You guys must all be divorced with your 400 saws

Nope, been married to the same woman for over 20 years. All saws are funded by the "Guido Salvage" account so money is never an issue.

 

[farmer steve]

welcome to the site ambull01. i guess by now you have figured out this crowd is great. keep them questions coming it's great reading.

 

[Ambull01]

You can't go just by the specs. YOU have to see how it feels to YOU for the type of cutting YOU will do. (See a pattern there?). Personal preference and comfort go a long way toward satisfaction.

Some people just like certain saws more.

Philbert

Okay, so it's very much like buying a car then. Specs and what not can give you an idea but actually test driving one is a whole different story. A beautiful Dolmar would look pretty good in my hands though lol. Although, I may be tempted to pose for animal crackers with a Dolmar.

 

[Ambull01]

I can't believe it took 4 pages to convince the OP he needs a 70cc.

Might as well bump it up to 79cc... 7900.
View attachment 376705

Nice saw. That's a monster. Wicked looking spike thingies. Is that black curved thing by the rear handle meant to protect you from a chain whip or whatever you call it?