Husqvarna 266se

[Trigger-Time]

Thanks TR. I think that the spline on the drum is shot.The chain would turn by hand,to a point but try to push the chain off the top of the bar as it exits the clutch cover. I am going to be ordering a new drum so I hope that will solve the problem....

Thanks for the help guys.

If you mean mail order.

I would have to go to my local dealer, if you have one around.

Am not ragging on you at all, but if we don't support our dealers.
Even more so in small towns we will one day wonder where they all went.
Just like wal-mart has run many small town bussiness out. So will
the internet with online sales.

Again this is not ragging on OP, even though it may seem that way.
I just give him a gold Nova

 

[272super]

Watch what happens from underneath(where you can see), when you tighten the clutch cover. Since that is when the bar has to tighten against the case, look to see what that does to the alignment of chain,drum and rim as you tighten it. Probably a bad drum as already stated. Also check that the clutch cover goes on flush and there is no area that does not fully merge with case.

You will like that saw, let us know how it turns out.

 

[Cantdog]

Yep...Definately time for a new rim AND clutch drum and bearing!! Pay close attention when you reassemble and be very certain that you are not getting any interference from your brake band. Also take a close look at the end of your crank when you have it all apart. Pull the saw over without the spark plug (but make sure the plug wire is grounded or the ign. switch is off) while watching the end of the crank. It should not wobble any if it does this will cause the drum to run out of round and encounter the brake band as well.

My hunch is the rim/spline/drum is toast and worn so out of round itself that you are hanging a driver up on tht top or edge of a spline causing a sudden "to short chain" problem. (especially with a brand new chain on a beat rim) Just my morning thoughts without quite enough coffee yet!! Good luck!!

 

[spike60]

Yep...Definately time for a new rim AND clutch drum and bearing!! Pay close attention when you reassemble and be very certain that you are not getting any interference from your brake band. Also take a close look at the end of your crank when you have it all apart. Pull the saw over without the spark plug (but make sure the plug wire is grounded or the ign. switch is off) while watching the end of the crank. It should not wobble any if it does this will cause the drum to run out of round and encounter the brake band as well.

My hunch is the rim/spline/drum is toast and worn so out of round itself that you are hanging a driver up on tht top or edge of a spline causing a sudden "to short chain" problem. (especially with a brand new chain on a beat rim) Just my morning thoughts without quite enough coffee yet!! Good luck!!

I agree!

And, have yourself another cup of coffee.

 

[Cantdog]

I agree!

And, have yourself another cup of coffee.

LOLOL!!!! Already there Bob!!

 

[teatersroad]

If you mean mail order.

I would have to go to my local dealer, if you have one around.

Am not ragging on you at all, but if we don't support our dealers.
Even more so in small towns we will one day wonder where they all went.
Just like wal-mart has run many small town bussiness out. So will
the internet with online sales.

Again this is not ragging on OP, even though it may seem that way.
I just give him a gold Nova

I'm down with that. I go online for some stuff, hard to beat the Carlton closeout bars at Bailey's right now, and dealers won't really mess with aftermarket (eg: Meteor). Otherwise local saw shop is my first stop for parts.

The difference in part number on the Drum -vs- IPL is likely that the Drum is an Oregon Powermate and has Oregon's part number.

 

[almondgt]

Your clutch is screwed. Don't change anything but the clutch. Make sure your bar is marked d009 as well. Feels good to be on here so early.:chainsawguy:

 

[teatersroad]

Your clutch is screwed. Don't change anything but the clutch.,

maybe. crichy, you can tell the condition of the needle bearing from way up there? you're good.

by clutch, do you mean the clutch drum, the clutch. or both? yeah, noted, the drum looks shot. what fixes the problem remains to be seen

 

[almondgt]

The clutch should not have an open hole on the end of it, it should be sealed with a small hole in it for greasing the sprocket/clutch,drum bearing. Clutch only.
:chainsawguy:

 

[teatersroad]

The clutch should not have an open hole on the end of it, it should be sealed with a small hole in it for greasing the sprocket/clutch,drum bearing. Clutch only.
:chainsawguy:

you just yanking chain here? I can't quite grock what you're talking about. Not saying it aint me, but, what?

The clutch looks fine to me, though I'm having a hard time gauging spring tension in the pics. Hole in the end of crank for lubing needle bearing, check. Cogs on clutch drum to drive oild pump, check. Hammered spline on drum, check

also,, looking back at pics, it sure looks like the plastic oil pump drive gear is broken.

Not pissing here, good neighbor to the North, explain better what you mean by 'hole in the clutch' to this hack.

edit> oh, now I think I get it. You might be used to some sort of 'cap' at the clutch thread boss. Not always the case. and not the case with my 266.

 

[SawTroll]

Your clutch is screwed. Don't change anything but the clutch. Make sure your bar is marked d009 as well. Feels good to be on here so early.:chainsawguy:

It is a Carlton bar, so I don't think it will be marked with the Oregon "large Husky" code, even if it is the right one.....

 

[almondgt]

The clutch in question was overtightned on the se saw. Husqvarna se has the old style clutch as pictured. Newer clutch used on the later xp models is a better design with the open end clutch. Oil pump gear looks like needs replace as mentioned.

<a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/?action=view&amp;current=clutch001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/clutch001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[teatersroad]

Husqvarna se has the old style clutch as pictured. Newer clutch used on the later xp models is a better design with the open end clutch. Oil pump gear looks like needs replace as mentioned.

<a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/?action=view&amp;current=clutch001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/clutch001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

copy, nice pic. My SE has clutch as shown prior by OP, can't see how it may be a problem unless the cap is also the 'shoulder' that keeps the clutch from setting hard against the drum. I did not read back to see if drum spun freely after install.

glad you're up early on that.

 

[almondgt]

Good morning...You are correct my good man on your comment, 'shoulder' that keeps the clutch from setting hard against the drum. If that damaged clutch is tightened the drum won't turn and could damage the oil pump gear
.:chainsawguy:

 

[Dawgfan52]

pump gear

You need a new rim and drum and pump gear. Drum kits are only $16-$20 here for the Oregon brand. I had a problem with the clutch locking to the drum on a 61 last week. The oil pump gear was worn and didn't engage the new drum correctly. The drum wouldn't go on far enough, and when the clutch was threaded on it would lock the drum. New gear, no more problem. They are plastic for a reason.

The rim sprocket does float on the drum and from your pics I could see the potential for sticking and binding the chain.

Wes

 

[teatersroad]

Good morning...You are correct my good man on your comment, 'shoulder' that keeps the clutch from setting hard against the drum. If that damaged clutch is tightened the drum won't turn and could damage the oil pump gear
.:chainsawguy:

well now I'm going to have to recon the nearly new to me '84 266se, 'cuz the clutch does not have that cap, but all works fine. I did not look at my drum splines, but the splines in the pic sure look like they've been used to drive chain. My thought was if the rim sprocket doesn't travel back and forth along the spline then it may bind hard against the case. Not that that jives with the chain bunching up on top of the sprocket.

he's probably out cutting wood with it already and we'll be solving his problem for the next six months.

 

[teatersroad]

closer look at the clutch in the pic I can see that the 'cap' is broken out, not just the wrong clutch. cheers, good eye.

 

[Trigger-Time]

closer look at the clutch in the pic I can see that the 'cap' is broken out, not just the wrong clutch. cheers, good eye.

Know that this has come up, I had 266, 261, 272 and few other
Husky part saws and did run into some troubles with cap and
non-cap clutches and washers, try to get a few of them going.


TT

 

[subhunter]

WELL I called around and found a drum,bearing etc for 25 bucks. It matches the old drum to the 'T'.

I am a bit confused about what you guys are saying about the clutch????

Although after I did tighten the clutch up I did run into the problem of the drum locking and not turning after about 1/4 turn. So what next?

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE REPLIES!!

 

[teatersroad]

as almondgt pointed out, look at your clutch and look at the pic of the clutch he posted. His has a Hex cover with a pinhole oiler port, on yours the cover is broken off. That cover acts as a depth stop to keep the clutch spaced off of the drum, allowing the drum to freewheel when the clutch is not engaged. Some clutches just seat against a shoulder on the crank, not in your case. When you cinch down your clutch it binds against the drum. A problem. Also it appears your oil drive gear is broken, can't really tell. It's the plastic gear seated in the pump gear.