teatersroad
What's a henway?
try swap meet thread for a new clutch, good first stop
Husqvarna 266se
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almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sure would like to see a picture of the mounting area of your chainsaw bar &/or provide the numbers/letters stamped on the bar to make sure you have the correct bar for your saw. Are the mounting threads inside the clutch coarse or fine?
:chainsawguy:
I see. So I need also a new clutch. I am kida doubting the worm is broken though as I pulled it off and it seems sound.
after reading this last post I barely loosened the clutch and indeed it does now spin freely.
the crank is course thread
after reading this last post I barely loosened the clutch and indeed it does now spin freely.
the crank is course thread
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almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I see. So I need also a new clutch. I am kida doubting the worm is broken though as I pulled it off and it seems sound.
after reading this last post I barely loosened the clutch and indeed it does now spin freely.
Worm wheel needs to be square on the 4 shoulders that contact the clutch drum. If not, the wheel could slip and no oil to the bar as a result. Nice pic by the way but need to see the end with the mounting holes of the bar that is closest to the clutch once mounted.:rockn:
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I see. So I need also a new clutch. I am kida doubting the worm is broken though as I pulled it off and it seems sound.
after reading this last post I barely loosened the clutch and indeed it does now spin freely.
the crank is course thread
Excuse my mixed up wording. Please add a picture of the mounting holes in the carlton bar.:chainsawguy:
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bar mount looks great. Blow out the small oiler holes on the bar so oil flows easily. :chainsawguy:
Well it seems that the course thread clutches are very rare, as in they dont make them or aftermarket ones from what I can tell.
Would this one work though ???
http://store.chainsawr.com/products...clutch-sprocket-assembly-type-2-coarse-thread
seems lke it would
Would this one work though ???
http://store.chainsawr.com/products...clutch-sprocket-assembly-type-2-coarse-thread
seems lke it would
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Yes it will, but do yourself a favor and buy a new rim to go with it. You have a new chain and bar and you should have a brand new rim to go with them so it's ALL new and the worn part is not prematurely wearing out the rest of the new stuff.
Got the clutch and another drum today. The chain problem seems to be fixed.
Now my new question/problem is when I had it running today trying to tune it quite a bit of oil was being forced out of the muffler, right where the two halves join together. ALSO after letting it run a while I revved it up some and then it never would slow down. No matter how far you adjust the idle screw it still kept the chain turning. I am guessing an air leak for the racing but before it seemed to run ok and earlier today it did also. guess I need to do a vacuum test now.
What would make the oil run out the muffler though? I run 40:1 and the other saws seem to like it.
THANKS FOR PICKING UP ON MY CLUTCH ISSUE BECAUSE I NEVER WOULD HAVE...:hmm3grin2orange:
Now my new question/problem is when I had it running today trying to tune it quite a bit of oil was being forced out of the muffler, right where the two halves join together. ALSO after letting it run a while I revved it up some and then it never would slow down. No matter how far you adjust the idle screw it still kept the chain turning. I am guessing an air leak for the racing but before it seemed to run ok and earlier today it did also. guess I need to do a vacuum test now.
What would make the oil run out the muffler though? I run 40:1 and the other saws seem to like it.
THANKS FOR PICKING UP ON MY CLUTCH ISSUE BECAUSE I NEVER WOULD HAVE...:hmm3grin2orange:
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yes!
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good place to start is the carb. Have you removed the carb for a thorough cleaning? Carb can create a lot of issues that could mimic air leaks. Carb may need a rebuild kit. Check for stiffness in the carb gaskets. Hopefully you haven't worked the H and L screws to much as they may start to leak air if too loose in the carb body. You'll be looking for a carb next if not careful. Excess oil may be due to carb as well.
:chainsawguy:
SawTroll
Information Collector
I wouldn't want to run 40:1, but that is not the reason for the oil coming out of the muffler - do you know if it is bar oil?
Regardless what other problems are present, there probably is an air leak somewhere, and maybe a leak from the oil tank into the cylinder.
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Beg to differ troll, 40:1 is a good mix for the old saws. The vintage saws have wear to the piston/cylinder and the heavier mix will keep that saw running a lot longer than 50:1 mix will. No disrespect intended. Looking back at your picture of the bar I notice now that you are missing the bolt that retains the right lower front antivibe mount and the plastic or aluminum chain catch is missing as well.
:chainsawguy:
:chainsawguy:
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SawTroll
Information Collector
More oil in the gas will also make the saws run leaner at the same carb settings - but do as you want to!
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I prefer 40:1 mix. I set the H and L screws on my carbs and don't have any issues with leaning the system out. Pretty sure owners manual for the old Husky 266 recommended 40:1 mix as well. Simple problem, simple solution.
:chainsawguy:
SawTroll
Information Collector
Older statements about oil to fuel ratio are irrelevant, because the oils have improved a lot!
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Older statements about oil to fuel ratio are irrelevant, because the oils have improved a lot!
You're a hard sell troll. Gotta do what makes you feel good!
:chainsawguy:
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"Free Saw!!"
I would clean the carb thoughly and install a new kit. Oil coming from the muffler is generally caused by an extreamly rich condition. Probably your needle valve is sticking open a bit and supplying to much fuel. The # is RK-23HS for the kit but one thing to remember...you may not be able to use the gasket that goes between the carb and the isolation block that is supplied. It's outside area may not be large enough to cover the impulse corridor and you will have an air leak plus your carb and fuel pump won't function properly. Either reuse the old one if it's in good shape or go to a Husky/Jonsered dealer and get the correct one, or simply use the supplied one as a pattern and make a new one but with more outside area around the impulse corridor. You will see what I mean. It may work fine as is but something to be aware of. Also make sure your fuel line is not touching the throttle linkage on the right hand side and causing the linkage to hang up and giving you a high idle situation.
If none of this works you may have a leaking crank seal. In all the posts and pics in this thread I haven't seen or heard mentioned the dust/debris shield that goes between the clutch drum and oil pump housing. If this saw has been run without this, dust, dirt and chips have been flying around your oil pump and your crank seal is right in the oil pump housing and has probably worn itself out. These are about the easiest crank seals to replace as you can remove the oil pump housing and do the seal right out on the bench. If you have trouble reinstalling the housing with the new seal without the seal trying to flip itself inside out when it catches on the lip on the crank, take your clutch bearing and very carefully slip it into the seal out on the bench. Then reinstall the housing. This will expand the seal and the seal will ride the bearing to the lip and slide right onto the shaft. Also you will find a large O-ring that seals the housing to the case. Make sure to replace that as well because that is another possible place for an air/vac leak to occur on these saws. Don't forget to get a new dust shield if you in fact don't have one.
Good luck with your "free" saw LOLOL!!!! (not laughing at you, just with you!! I have a bunch of these "free" saws!!) But seriously....once you get this all straightened out you will have a real good saw.
I would clean the carb thoughly and install a new kit. Oil coming from the muffler is generally caused by an extreamly rich condition. Probably your needle valve is sticking open a bit and supplying to much fuel. The # is RK-23HS for the kit but one thing to remember...you may not be able to use the gasket that goes between the carb and the isolation block that is supplied. It's outside area may not be large enough to cover the impulse corridor and you will have an air leak plus your carb and fuel pump won't function properly. Either reuse the old one if it's in good shape or go to a Husky/Jonsered dealer and get the correct one, or simply use the supplied one as a pattern and make a new one but with more outside area around the impulse corridor. You will see what I mean. It may work fine as is but something to be aware of. Also make sure your fuel line is not touching the throttle linkage on the right hand side and causing the linkage to hang up and giving you a high idle situation.
If none of this works you may have a leaking crank seal. In all the posts and pics in this thread I haven't seen or heard mentioned the dust/debris shield that goes between the clutch drum and oil pump housing. If this saw has been run without this, dust, dirt and chips have been flying around your oil pump and your crank seal is right in the oil pump housing and has probably worn itself out. These are about the easiest crank seals to replace as you can remove the oil pump housing and do the seal right out on the bench. If you have trouble reinstalling the housing with the new seal without the seal trying to flip itself inside out when it catches on the lip on the crank, take your clutch bearing and very carefully slip it into the seal out on the bench. Then reinstall the housing. This will expand the seal and the seal will ride the bearing to the lip and slide right onto the shaft. Also you will find a large O-ring that seals the housing to the case. Make sure to replace that as well because that is another possible place for an air/vac leak to occur on these saws. Don't forget to get a new dust shield if you in fact don't have one.
Good luck with your "free" saw LOLOL!!!! (not laughing at you, just with you!! I have a bunch of these "free" saws!!) But seriously....once you get this all straightened out you will have a real good saw.
