Husqvarna Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

No fingernail polish is not affected by gas.....the big plug covers the low (idle)and intermediate orifises (on either side of the throttle plate when closed) which is most likely where you problem lies. The little one covers the high speed orifice. If you need plugs PM me I have a bunch left over from many, many carb rebuilds where they were not used. I can send you a set or two if you want (free of course)but mail won't go out until moday... If I can help let me know.

 

[briantutt]

Carb issues

Pulled the welch plugs and inspected every bore with a microscope. There is nothing clogging the ports, very clean. The welch plug was inverted (center lower than the edges) formt the way I pressed it in. Do you think the center of the plug could have been limiting flow path to the small hole right on top of throttle plate? Seems unlikely to me since there is pleanty of room under the plig for those tiny holes.

I guess maybe the plug was leaking a little?

 

[Cantdog]

Hey Brian; The plugs went in the mail this afternoon. If you can't find any cloggage under the plugs or other passages then I would guess perhaps your metering lever needs adjusting....should be flush with the carb bottom...or perhaps a vac leak in or around fuel line or fittings. Perhaps there is a misalignment of the gaskets in the impulse corridor...or cloggage at the cyl base gasket. Did you use sealer on this? If so, were you very careful as to not use to much especially around your impulse pick up? Don't mean to be confusing...just throwing out possible problem areas/ideas.

If nothing you do helps...are you certain about your timing setting? Perhaps not advanced quite enough?? Points set correctly??? Points dwell affects timing as well. Usually one degree of point dwell equals one degree of ign. timing so a little bit here and little bit there adds up. When there is not enough advance they will start and idle fine but not spool up very good at all. Again just thinking out loud (virtually!!)

 

[briantutt]

Hey Brian; The plugs went in the mail this afternoon. If you can't find any cloggage under the plugs or other passages then I would guess perhaps your metering lever needs adjusting....should be flush with the carb bottom...or perhaps a vac leak in or around fuel line or fittings. Perhaps there is a misalignment of the gaskets in the impulse corridor...or cloggage at the cyl base gasket. Did you use sealer on this? If so, were you very careful as to not use to much especially around your impulse pick up? Don't mean to be confusing...just throwing out possible problem areas/ideas.

If nothing you do helps...are you certain about your timing setting? Perhaps not advanced quite enough?? Points set correctly??? Points dwell affects timing as well. Usually one degree of point dwell equals one degree of ign. timing so a little bit here and little bit there adds up. When there is not enough advance they will start and idle fine but not spool up very good at all. Again just thinking out loud (virtually!!)

Thank You Robin for the plugs. I really appreciate it.

I used the old metering lever because whenever I try to use a new one I seem to goof it up. I didn't use any sealer on the carb gasket so it shouldn't be a pulse port issue. The timing thing is a very distinct possibility. I took the ignition plate off before marking the location (Mark told/showed me how to do this but I have already had it off so I only had witness marks in the slotted holes to time it). I didn't touch the points themselves, didn't even take off the plastic cover because everything looked so clean behind the sealed flywheel.

I will put the new welch plugs in and try again and if not luck then I guess I am headed for the timing...I am sure you and Mark will get me straightened out on this one eventually...

 

[Cantdog]

Your welcome Brian...that's why I save them...(well..and being really, really to cheap to throw anything new away!!)

This new info is good to have. You haven't serviced the points....on a complete tear down and build back??? This may well be part of the reason the saw went unused in the first place!! Some of us old guys are very comfortable with points igns...younger folks....not so much!! Just a matter of timing LOLOL!! you might say!!

I would, regardless of any other work, pull those points, inspect them closely. you will see that there are two distinct layers of metal on both contacts. The outer layer is fairly hard, the inner one very soft. You need to be able to carefully file/grind both contacts flat and even, so they match each other without going through the hard layer. If that is not possible... replace or replace anyway, if you can. But usually they can be filed and put back in service. They must be matched, flat to flat, not tipped or missaligned. Set them to 0.016" on the high side of the cam. This should be done anytime you do this much work to a saw that has a points ign. just (if nothing more) to eliminate potential problems. Good luck.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Brian, Robin just gave you a ton of good info!

The points servicing is standard procedure when ever you have one that far apart!

 

[briantutt]

Mark and Robin

to the masters!

At least I know how to get the flywheel off now!

 

[Cantdog]

I don't know about masters (well..for me atleast) but knowing how to deal with points simply comes from growing up in a time before there were any forms in "electronic" igns. If I couldn't get that dual point Barracuda running decent...I would NOT get to go out and get in trouble and chase women (well...perhaps girls is more like it back then!!) anyway you get my drift......that's why I called it a "timing issue"LOLOL!!!

Of course this may not be your problem at all...but it is something that Mark and I both agree on...this is something that you always do when going completely through a saw.

 

[briantutt]

Points

I have only messed with points on old Scorpion snowmobiles. My dad used to race for their factory racing team and had enough engine parts to repair as many sleds as I could get my hands on (for much the same reason, no car, places to be!). He showed me how sand and set the points on those but that was over 20 years ago. When I get into the points on the 65 I will certainly be consulting him on technique. I do have an extra set from a parts saw so hopefully one will be good.

 

[Cantdog]

Good enough!! Points is points as they say. If you know the ins and outs they are the same. Between the two you may have at least one good set. But if they are burnt and pitted sanding won't be enough...you will have to file/grind the pitts out and match the contacts. Go slow and pay close attention to how much you've taken and how much there is left. The more left when your done the longer the life of that set.

 

[briantutt]

:bang: STUPID CARB :bang:

I replaced the welch plugs. Now the stupid thing idles with the low speed idle screw all the way in.:angry2:

 

[briantutt]

Thread is stalled

I am stalled out on the "Green Machine" so I am gonna dig for the points tonight on the Husqvarna 65 try to get that one "off" the bench. uttahere2:

Heat wave here tonight at 27F!

 

[briantutt]

Here goes nothin...

I would, regardless of any other work, pull those points, inspect them closely. you will see that there are two distinct layers of metal on both contacts. The outer layer is fairly hard, the inner one very soft. You need to be able to carefully file/grind both contacts flat and even, so they match each other without going through the hard layer. If that is not possible... replace or replace anyway, if you can. But usually they can be filed and put back in service. They must be matched, flat to flat, not tipped or missaligned. Set them to 0.016" on the high side of the cam. This should be done anytime you do this much work to a saw that has a points ign. just (if nothing more) to eliminate potential problems. Good luck.

Alright I'm back in with the points exposed. Both sides a very flat to flat but maybe a little dirty. My father said I just fold over a piece of fine wet/dry, close the points and pull out the sandpaper to clean them up sound good? Once this is done am I setting the .016" gap as the "furthest open" with a feeler guage correct? That fixes the timing right?

 

[briantutt]

I realize I am posting in a vacuum but nonetheless...

How far do I sand the points? I am using 400 grit wet/dry. They are pretty shiny now but I can still see a couple small spots on each side that sort of look dull. Should I keep going until the whole surface is shiny?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Brian they should be like you say, flat and clean. If theres a pit in them theres nothing really you can do with that, don't try to sand them down to remove the pit.

Run a clean piece of paper through them when your done to clean them.

Yes you set the points at the lowest part of the lobe on the crank. That sets the points, the timing on that saw is the rotation of the whole point assy which is something else.

Just clean them and set them for now.

 

[briantutt]

Brian they should be like you say, flat and clean. If theres a pit in them theres nothing really you can do with that, don't try to sand them down to remove the pit.

Run a clean piece of paper through them when your done to clean them.

Yes you set the points at the lowest part of the lobe on the crank. That sets the points, the timing on that saw is the rotation of the whole point assy which is something else.

Just clean them and set them for now.

Is the .016 gap what I am shooting for? After sanding the max gap is .010" I can't even get a .011 feeler in without forcing it. Should I just loosen the screw on top and set it at .016? Seems like it should be wider than .016 before I move anything if I just sanded material away. I suppose it could just be that far off???

 

[Cantdog]

Yes Brian...turn the crank so that the points are riding on the highest point of the cam (points open max)...loosen the adjusting screw slightly (you may or may not have a spot purposely made to put a flat blade screwdriver) and pry the points open and set at 0'016" and tighten the screw back up. Turn over a couple revolutions, bring it back on the high spot and recheck. You should be good to go.
If you have a felt cam wiper put one or two (no more) drops of 3-in-1 or similar light oil on it. Do not over do it....one or two drops.

 

[Cantdog]

Sorry I didn't address your question about how the points are set now.
They are to close and that by itself will advance your ign timing one degree for every 0'001" out from what your measurement is supposed to be. The term is points dwell. On most motors you must get the proper points dwell BEFORE you can set your ign. timing or you are just chasing your tail. Swedish saws use a more mechanical method rather than a timing light to set the ign. timing, but the results are the same if you dwell is off your time will be as well.

 

[briantutt]

Going outside right now with it! Will report back shortly.

 

[briantutt]

Yes!

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Thanks again Mark and Robin for the patience! It might not be perfectly tuned but I kept fiddling with the needles and it revs up and cuts now! It's got Vanguard chain on it freshly sharped on the grinder 20" bar...