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So for future reference, what should be protocol for blasting cases? Bolted together with old bearings and seals in? No seals? What a about mateing surface of the two cases when doin the inside?
maybe Mike (glock37) will chime in here but he asked me to leave the bearings and seals in from now on, I think the case edge is already basically clean and having them split doesn't pose a problem.
 
maybe Mike (glock37) will chime in here but he asked me to leave the bearings and seals in from now on, I think the case edge is already basically clean and having them split doesn't pose a problem.
I sent Mike a link to the thread and asked him to chime in. He's out to dinner so maybe later he will. I know he bolts the case halves together and he has bearings that he cut and he slides them in to protect that area and then plugs the center of the flywheel side.
 
At first when we started doing cases we didn't relizes that the bearing bores would erode enough for the bearing to be loose

so after some thinking I use old bearing split them and knock out the innnererds and use the outer races to block off the bores to blasting and Powdering

also the seal bores gets a Silicone stopper pressed into to do the same

we also bolt them together to blast the outside together to keep the mating surface erosion down to a minamin

after the outside is done we unbolt and as fast as we can get the crackcase and other areas we cant get too bolted together blasted

I'm under the belief that when removeing cranks and bearing heat should be used to keep the metal to metal friction down when separating cases

to keep the bearing bores from being enlarged

Mike
 
dd5a1f393427250515273903e34dfc71.jpg


This what it looks like when we blast


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How do ya break a wrap from regular use? I could see if ya throw it every time your done cuttin but....
Look at the way it is built vs an oem,the oem has a plastic elbow to absorb vibrations and also allow flex,flexing a solid part and also the vibes could crack the aftermarket faster.the sftermarket full wrap should hold up better due to less flex over the 3/4 type
 
Look at the way it is built vs an oem,the oem has a plastic elbow to absorb vibrations and also allow flex,flexing a solid part and also the vibes could crack the aftermarket faster.the sftermarket full wrap should hold up better due to less flex over the 3/4 type

Madsens are in high demand with the PSP union local 3..i wish i would have bought them all..i could have tripled my money...i dont care for how they feel..i like the OEM joints mo betta.

I admire your wisdom sir.
 
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