I found one! Almost..

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If he is going to tear the carb down he might as well have a carb kit with gaskets and change them to avoid doing it twice. Just my two cents.
My thought as well. As you can see in the previous post, I did pick up a carb kit.

I also just watched a video on replacing the impulse line..that looks a little tricky to get on and requires more tearing down. Someone suggested I replace that and I will probably attempt it..looks like a gasket to replace on there as well.
 
The impulse line is quite easy to replace. Get yourself a pair of hemostats,almost a must have these days for saw work, they are very thin and can make access into many cramped openings where ordinary needlenose pliers cannot get to. Fish the impulse line in through the airbox bulkhead where the carb nipple pushes into the hose/line, then attach it to the barb on the cylinder base, there is enough room to do this without dismantling the saw but I most often do take the saw down to clean out all the crud built up in under the crankcase and spline cavities.
 
You will get a few responses telling you the center electrode will drop out of that Bosch plug and get impaled into the cylinder head or piston crown.

I've never heard of a spark plug doing that..is this a real issue? I would think the Stihl dealer would not sell them if that was the case? What is the recommended plug replacement?
 
A few things arrived yesterday.. I probably have tools that would work, but any excuse to buy tools is good. Just bought some cheap stuff with good reviews. Wanted dedicated tools for the saw.

2 stroke carb adjustment kit and a super long T-27.

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This showed up a week early...but now I see I need some Block off plates? Can I make some out of aluminium? Or where can I buy them?

View attachment 1227249
Aluminum with a strip of rubber between the plate and engine works fine, I have a box of them custom made and fitted for most every saw made that I ever worked on. For the Stihls I often just use the occluders, basically a strip of flat rubber gasket, slip it in between the muffler and the carb, tighten them down and when vac or pressure is applied the intake boot is part of the test.
 
Block off plates make life easier, but you don't really need them. You can slip a piece of suitable rubber material between the engine and carb or muffler respectively. But then you have to find a way to connect the tube - air tight under pressure. The original Stihl block off plates have a fitting included for easy hookup. If you are lucky, one of the adapters in your kit fits into the spark plug hole.
 
I found this video and it helps explains things to my rookie self..



I ordered a few different tools to try. These are coming today..

Screenshot_20241222_114113_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20241222_114052_Chrome.jpg

This one will be here friday. It's same as the copy one above, but wanted to try both. Buddy that gave me the saw, said he has another one I can have if I can get this one going.
Screenshot_20241222_113955_Chrome.jpg
 
Your piston looks good, it least the top part. How does the lower part of the skirt look?

I would leave the muffler intact, at least for now. Get the saw running first before you change anything. The virus is strong in you, you will look for a second, bigger saw before you know it. And that makes a lot more sense than a big hole in your muffler.

The bearing looks OK. How does it feel? Is the clutch drum tight on the shaft or can you wiggle it?
 
Looks like I get to attempt a muffler mod as well.
View attachment 1228895

And should I replace this bearing or does it look OK?
View attachment 1228896
What size is the hole in your muffler,3/4 " works good for them. Wash up that drum bearing, clean it very well then check it for slop on the shaft and when the drum is slid on over rock the drum side to side, it looks good but only test fit will tell, Grease it with some light grease before locking up the E clip.
 

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