Jonsered Chainsaws

[briantutt]

I believe it is. From what I can tell, you can take out the 70E studs and replace them with the 2095 studs. Again, I have not tried this but it does look like it would be a direct swap without any modification.

Good info, finding the correct mount bar for the 70E wasn't to easy...

 

[SawTroll]

Good info, finding the correct mount bar for the 70E wasn't to easy...

Some times a "large Husky" (D009) bar will fit, but mostly you will have to widen the slot in the bar a little. The difference is not large, and the oil holes fit.

 

[Chris J.]

My 930 IPL also shows rubber AV mounts. Does anyone have an IPL that shows the spring mounts?

 

[PB]

My 930 IPL also shows rubber AV mounts. Does anyone have an IPL that shows the spring mounts?

Not for the 930, just the 830. Both IPL's are from 1986 and the 930 has rubber and the 830 has the spring.

 

[PB]

Some times a "large Husky" (D009) bar will fit, but mostly you will have to widen the slot in the bar a little. The difference is not large, and the oil holes fit.

Yes, but this did not work on my 910 for some reason. I think it had more to do with the chain and sprocket combo more than the bar. The bar would not line up with the oiler hole with the modified bar but worked fine with the 10mm mount. This is the only saw I have tried the modified bar on, and the only one I would like to switch over. That saw is a monster, but finding long 10mm mount bars is hard.

 

[briantutt]

Yes, but this did not work on my 910 for some reason. I think it had more to do with the chain and sprocket combo more than the bar. The bar would not line up with the oiler hole with the modified bar but worked fine with the 10mm mount. This is the only saw I have tried the modified bar on, and the only one I would like to switch over. That saw is a monster, but finding long 10mm mount bars is hard.

I was able to find a bar at Bailey's for mine that was correct but it took me quite awhile. It's a Carlton bar, solid sprocket tip.

 

[PB]

I was able to find a bar at Bailey's for mine that was correct but it took me quite awhile. It's a Carlton bar, solid sprocket tip.

I haven't been able to find anything over 28" for the older saws. Bailey's had some about a year ago (I think 34" or something like that) but missed out on them.

 

[huskydude]

Spike60 used a Western plow red paint that is almost identical. I need to find some for myself.

that stuff is expensive. one can cost more than what i paid for my saw!

 

[briantutt]

No thats not the right handle in that picture. Thats a 500 handle!

I think the mystery is finally solved, I received the handle brace you sent me. The Jonsered part number molded inside is the same but the one I have has a date stamp of "87" and the one you sent has "90". Push outs and gates are in the same place but they obviously made a revision change to the brace/handle combo you are used to. Now I know I just need the top handle that matches the one you gave me.

Thank You Mark

 

[Modifiedmark]

I think the mystery is finally solved, I received the handle brace you sent me. The Jonsered part number molded inside is the same but the one I have has a date stamp of "87" and the one you sent has "90". Push outs and gates are in the same place but they obviously made a revision change to the brace/handle combo you are used to. Now I know I just need the top handle that matches the one you gave me.

Thank You Mark

Interesting. I got the brace in a box of stuff, I never had it on a saw.

I will look at my saws tomorrow but I'm sure thats the same as the 5000 setup I put on my 500.

I'm sure that you just need a 5000 front handle.

 

[briantutt]

Interesting. I got the brace in a box of stuff, I never had it on a saw.

I will look at my saws tomorrow but I'm sure thats the same as the 5000 setup I put on my 500.

I'm sure that you just need a 5000 front handle.

:yourock:

 

[Cantdog]

Yes, but this did not work on my 910 for some reason. I think it had more to do with the chain and sprocket combo more than the bar. The bar would not line up with the oiler hole with the modified bar but worked fine with the 10mm mount. This is the only saw I have tried the modified bar on, and the only one I would like to switch over. That saw is a monster, but finding long 10mm mount bars is hard.

It matters little what bar is used on that 910 of yours it is by far the most powerful saw you brought down for us to play with. Near perfect blend of RPM and torque....went to full speed and didn't slow down in the cut hardly any in 20" hard maple. Way good rig and close to the top on my list of Jonsered saws to aquire. But you are right 10MM mount bars are not the current thing and hard to find.

 

[Modifiedmark]

:yourock:

I went and checked all my saws, that brace I sent is indeed the right one. You for sure need a front handle for a 5000.

Did you check with Poulan for the front mount and screw like I suggested?

 

[SawTroll]

Yes, but this did not work on my 910 for some reason. I think it had more to do with the chain and sprocket combo more than the bar. The bar would not line up with the oiler hole with the modified bar but worked fine with the 10mm mount. This is the only saw I have tried the modified bar on, and the only one I would like to switch over. That saw is a monster, but finding long 10mm mount bars is hard.

I have a reasonably new 16" D024 bar on my 621, and that took more than 6 months to get - and I have no idea what would have happened if I wanted a longer one.

 

[SawTroll]

Yes, but this did not work on my 910 for some reason. I think it had more to do with the chain and sprocket combo more than the bar. The bar would not line up with the oiler hole with the modified bar but worked fine with the 10mm mount. This is the only saw I have tried the modified bar on, and the only one I would like to switch over. That saw is a monster, but finding long 10mm mount bars is hard.

I have no idea how that could happen, unless you did all the filing at one side of the slot of a D009 bar - and even then it would be odd?

I don't believe you did though, so I am confused.

 

[briantutt]

Did you check with Poulan for the front mount and screw like I suggested?

I must have missed that comment...Poulan store you mean?

 

[briantutt]

briantutt: That manifold is attached to the crankcase with at least one screw. Did you take those out? If I remember right, there is only a rubber hose thing that attaches to the cylinder; no bolts attaching it to the cylinder.

I got the heat shield carb mount off the 590. I had all the bolts out it was just VERY stuck on the opening. Is this thing glued/sealed to the opening on the cylinder somehow? I really had to pull...

 

[PB]

I got the heat sheild carb mount off. I had all the bolts out it was just VERY stuck on the opening. Is this thing glued/sealed to the opening on the cylinder somehow? I really had to pull...

I don't think it is sealed with anything. It has probably never been taken off and after 20+ years of running it probably has welded itself to the cylinder. I am almost 100% positive there is no sealer used but I will have to check the workshop manual when I get to work in a few minutes.

 

[briantutt]

I don't think it is sealed with anything. It has probably never been taken off and after 20+ years of running it probably has welded itself to the cylinder. I am almost 100% positive there is no sealer used but I will have to check the workshop manual when I get to work in a few minutes.

That would be awesome, Thank You

 

[PB]

I have no idea how that could happen, unless you did all the filing at one side of the slot of a D009 bar - and even then it would be odd?

I don't believe you did though, so I am confused.

The oil holes correctly lined up on the plane; they were would have been over the oiler if the bar had more adjustment. The chain was initially too tight and the oil hole was behind the oiler opening (too close to the clutch). So I added a link then the damn chain was too long and when tensioned the oiler hole was on the other side (close to the muffler) still not oiling. Like I said, I think it has more to do with the chain, sprocket, bar combination than anything else. I don't know what it is about GB bars but it seems that I always have to add or subtract a link from the DL count of the bar.

It's probably just me.