Just cleaned out this oak 2 weeks ago. comments?

[treeseer]

he is stretched out with the construction

so the tree owner is building near the tree but cannot spend anything on it...that makes no sense whatsoever--the line of credit for the building is long so the money is there, but not the intelligence.

if it was hit by lightning maybe it's time for an ins claim.

Boy o boy this thread was hot and heavy...now dead? Sorry about that.

 

[ropensaddle]

so the tree owner is building near the tree but cannot spend anything on it...that makes no sense whatsoever--the line of credit for the building is long so the money is there, but not the intelligence.

if it was hit by lightning maybe it's time for an ins claim.

Boy o boy this thread was hot and heavy...now dead? Sorry about that.

Not doing the construction on credit at least I don't think.

 

[Marty B]

Live Oaks

Why do live Oaks keep their leaves? The branches are subject to burn with direct sun light. If the tree is in decline and the crown starts dying back you have to try to do something. The water sprouts are there for some good reasons. One, providing shade to it's limbs and two, provide carbs to the limb so it develops good limb taper. I get on my climbers about breaking/cutting water sprouts. Live Oaks are not an easy tree to clean up. It's good to have a groundie with a good eye to let you know if you start getting too carried away.

 

[BC WetCoast]

In reading the thread it appears that some don't understand why lion's tailing is bad for the tree. Trees add increment to branches or the main stem (conifers) primarily in the crown area. This is most evident in comparing open grown conifers with those growing in a closed canopy. In the open grown situation, where the foliage goes to the ground you have the same increment growth at the top and bottom of the tree, hence giving a tapered stem.

In a closed canopy tree, the increment in the canopy is more than the bottom, so you end up with a tree with less taper.

Lion's tailing gives the same effect on the branches. You end up with branches that have less taper over the length of the branch and hence more susceptible to breakage.

I can't really comment on this particular tree because I don't think the camera gives a proper perspective.

Someone made a comment that this was a diseased tree. What disease? I can't see any indicators, but probably don't know what to look for.

Finally, one of the reasons given to remove the branch to the left was a cavity. How large was the cavity? How much shell wood? What were the targets should the branch fail? I'm pretty sure I could see live foliage on it, so it was not a deadwooding exercise.

 

[asthesun]

In reading the thread it appears that some don't understand why lion's tailing is bad for the tree. Trees add increment to branches or the main stem (conifers) primarily in the crown area. This is most evident in comparing open grown conifers with those growing in a closed canopy. In the open grown situation, where the foliage goes to the ground you have the same increment growth at the top and bottom of the tree, hence giving a tapered stem.

In a closed canopy tree, the increment in the canopy is more than the bottom, so you end up with a tree with less taper.

Lion's tailing gives the same effect on the branches. You end up with branches that have less taper over the length of the branch and hence more susceptible to breakage.

I can't really comment on this particular tree because I don't think the camera gives a proper perspective.

Someone made a comment that this was a diseased tree. What disease? I can't see any indicators, but probably don't know what to look for.

Finally, one of the reasons given to remove the branch to the left was a cavity. How large was the cavity? How much shell wood? What were the targets should the branch fail? I'm pretty sure I could see live foliage on it, so it was not a deadwooding exercise.

so how do you trim your canadian liveoaks...?

 

[M.D. Vaden]

Have barely read replies, but it looks decent.

Not sure whether you took too much out or not. But I see what looks like a lot of dead twig. I know that light to moderate thinning of some oaks can make them look quite open sometimes.

Hard to tell from pics sometimes.

 

[tomtrees58]

It looks way over thinned!

What is the reasoning behind stripping the entire center of trees like that?

thats good for thear:jawdrop: i am in st pete beach topping is the norm here tom trees

 

[treeseer]

thats good for thear:jawdrop: i am in st pete beach topping is the norm here tom trees

many untopped and unliontailed trees in pinellas county--but not enough i agree.

there are pecies with similar growth habit to live oak in bc as i recall; not virginiana maybe but lobata, ?

lots of other work to be done besides stripping sprouts:

BACKGROUND AND HISTORY
Client has owned property 3 years. 2 limbs have been removed entirely to gain extra clearance to palms and street. Landscape service has maintained edges of flowerbeds by trenching, and applying Blade herbicide monthly. A fiberoptic line was bored under the tree 2 years ago.
Last year a local tree service removed lower and interior growth in an effort to “stormproof” the tree. No cuts were made at the ends of the branches. Another tree service looked at a red mushroom on the tree and recommended removal.

ASSIGNMENT
On June 27 2009 the owner asked me to assess the tree’s condition and list management options.

OBSERVATIONS
I excavated decayed wood around the infection. I removed >2” extra soil that had been added around the trunk, and clipped away some circling roots. The infection measured approximately 11 inches wide, 6 inches high and 2 inches deep before I encountered living or solid tree tissue. Live oak wood is known to be decay resistant. The tree has sent out 2-3’ sprouts where last year’s “stormproofing” (lion-tailing) cuts were made. The top branches of the tree are sparsely foliated; dead twigs are in the sunlight. Spanish moss is shading out lower foliage. Wound response where branches were removed is poor; very little callus (scar) tissue is visible. The tree is declining, but the decline does not appear irreversible.

MANAGEMENT OPTIONS
1. Remove no more green leaves until the top of the tree has more leaves and wounds have more callus growth. After that, train some of the lower sprouts to become branches.
2. Orient sprinkler heads so the trunk is not splashed.
3. Mulch flowerbeds, and maintain edges without cutting tree roots (contact herbicide?)
4. Stop using Blade or any other broadleaf herbicide until dosage and frequency are verified tree-friendly.
5. Remove excess moss to get sunlight to leaves.
6. Late this summer, have an arborist inspect the ends of the limbs and remove dead branches, inspecting foliage for size, color and health, and inspecting limbs for canker and cracking.
7. Inoculate rootzone with compost applied in 1’deep, 2” wide holes 2’ apart in the turf area.
8. Mulch tree ring 4” deep with shredded hardwood, leaving the trunk clear.
9. Monitor semiannually, documenting above conditions.
11. Leave the tree alone.
12. Remove the tree.

This concludes my report. I can clarify any portions of it upon request.

 

[tomtrees58]

many untopped and unliontailed trees in pinellas county--but not enough i agree.

there are pecies with similar growth habit to live oak in bc as i recall; not virginiana maybe but lobata, ?

lots of other work to be done besides stripping sprouts:

BACKGROUND AND HISTORY
Client has owned property 3 years. 2 limbs have been removed entirely to gain extra clearance to palms and street. Landscape service has maintained edges of flowerbeds by trenching, and applying Blade herbicide monthly. A fiberoptic line was bored under the tree 2 years ago.
Last year a local tree service removed lower and interior growth in an effort to “stormproof” the tree. No cuts were made at the ends of the branches. Another tree service looked at a red mushroom on the tree and recommended removal.

ASSIGNMENT
On June 27 2009 the owner asked me to assess the tree’s condition and list management options.

OBSERVATIONS
I excavated decayed wood around the infection. I removed >2” extra soil that had been added around the trunk, and clipped away some circling roots. The infection measured approximately 11 inches wide, 6 inches high and 2 inches deep before I encountered living or solid tree tissue. Live oak wood is known to be decay resistant. The tree has sent out 2-3’ sprouts where last year’s “stormproofing” (lion-tailing) cuts were made. The top branches of the tree are sparsely foliated; dead twigs are in the sunlight. Spanish moss is shading out lower foliage. Wound response where branches were removed is poor; very little callus (scar) tissue is visible. The tree is declining, but the decline does not appear irreversible.

MANAGEMENT OPTIONS
1. Remove no more green leaves until the top of the tree has more leaves and wounds have more callus growth. After that, train some of the lower sprouts to become branches.
2. Orient sprinkler heads so the trunk is not splashed.
3. Mulch flowerbeds, and maintain edges without cutting tree roots (contact herbicide?)
4. Stop using Blade or any other broadleaf herbicide until dosage and frequency are verified tree-friendly.
5. Remove excess moss to get sunlight to leaves.
6. Late this summer, have an arborist inspect the ends of the limbs and remove dead branches, inspecting foliage for size, color and health, and inspecting limbs for canker and cracking.
7. Inoculate rootzone with compost applied in 1’deep, 2” wide holes 2’ apart in the turf area.
8. Mulch tree ring 4” deep with shredded hardwood, leaving the trunk clear.
9. Monitor semiannually, documenting above conditions.
11. Leave the tree alone.
12. Remove the tree.
thining here in nassau county L I othertree guys lion-tail its makes nuts tom trees

 

[tomtrees58]

wen i am in st pete trimming or fishing you can find me here at lunch tom trees

 

[ropensaddle]

wen i am in st pete trimming or fishing you can find me here at lunch tom trees

Well you sure have posted that several times must be a good burger or cute waitress lol

 

[ropensaddle]

many untopped and unliontailed trees in pinellas county--but not enough i agree.

there are pecies with similar growth habit to live oak in bc as i recall; not virginiana maybe but lobata, ?

lots of other work to be done besides stripping sprouts:

BACKGROUND AND HISTORY
Client has owned property 3 years. 2 limbs have been removed entirely to gain extra clearance to palms and street. Landscape service has maintained edges of flowerbeds by trenching, and applying Blade herbicide monthly. A fiberoptic line was bored under the tree 2 years ago.
Last year a local tree service removed lower and interior growth in an effort to “stormproof” the tree. No cuts were made at the ends of the branches. Another tree service looked at a red mushroom on the tree and recommended removal.

ASSIGNMENT
On June 27 2009 the owner asked me to assess the tree’s condition and list management options.

OBSERVATIONS
I excavated decayed wood around the infection. I removed >2” extra soil that had been added around the trunk, and clipped away some circling roots. The infection measured approximately 11 inches wide, 6 inches high and 2 inches deep before I encountered living or solid tree tissue. Live oak wood is known to be decay resistant. The tree has sent out 2-3’ sprouts where last year’s “stormproofing” (lion-tailing) cuts were made. The top branches of the tree are sparsely foliated; dead twigs are in the sunlight. Spanish moss is shading out lower foliage. Wound response where branches were removed is poor; very little callus (scar) tissue is visible. The tree is declining, but the decline does not appear irreversible.

MANAGEMENT OPTIONS
1. Remove no more green leaves until the top of the tree has more leaves and wounds have more callus growth. After that, train some of the lower sprouts to become branches.
2. Orient sprinkler heads so the trunk is not splashed.
3. Mulch flowerbeds, and maintain edges without cutting tree roots (contact herbicide?)
4. Stop using Blade or any other broadleaf herbicide until dosage and frequency are verified tree-friendly.
5. Remove excess moss to get sunlight to leaves.
6. Late this summer, have an arborist inspect the ends of the limbs and remove dead branches, inspecting foliage for size, color and health, and inspecting limbs for canker and cracking.
7. Inoculate rootzone with compost applied in 1’deep, 2” wide holes 2’ apart in the turf area.
8. Mulch tree ring 4” deep with shredded hardwood, leaving the trunk clear.
9. Monitor semiannually, documenting above conditions.
11. Leave the tree alone.
12. Remove the tree.

This concludes my report. I can clarify any portions of it upon request.

So was it 1 through 9 or 11 or 12 and what happened to 10?

 

[tomtrees58]

Well you sure have posted that several times must be a good burger or cute waitress lol

yup the waitress and the burgers are the best in town tom trees

 

[ropensaddle]

yup the waitress and the burgers are the best in town tom trees

Lol red hair?

 

[tomtrees58]

Lol red hair?

1 red head 6 blonds tom trees

 

[ropensaddle]

1 red head 6 blonds tom trees

to burger joints

 

[tomtrees58]

this wear i am tom trees

 

[ropensaddle]

this wear i am tom trees

I am a chicken of the sea lol sunami,shaaaks and stone fish,stingrays ole ropen feels like a cat around the ocean

 

[tomtrees58]

I am a chicken of the sea lol sunami,shaaaks and stone fish,stingrays ole ropen feels like a cat around the ocean

o man we go shark fishing my frend got a 3000 lbs w shark tom trees

 

[ropensaddle]

o man we go shark fishing my frend got a 3000 lbs w shark tom trees

Ole ropen might fish in the ocean but big boat.