Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Did u run it before the oiler was swapped out? If clutch is smokin sounds like motor has power and the clutch and or spacer and bearing isn't installed correct
Low compression on my new Stihl MS362
- Thread starter James Sawyer
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boltonranger
ArboristSite Guru
I have to ask.
Any possibility the clutch is oil contaminated?
Doesn’t mitigate the low compression, but I just wondered about it.
And yes, I’d be returning it now regardless the answer.
Any possibility the clutch is oil contaminated?
Doesn’t mitigate the low compression, but I just wondered about it.
And yes, I’d be returning it now regardless the answer.
AgTech4020
ArboristSite Operative
I’m really sorry to hear about how poorly your saw has performed for you. I have a MS362C that I am absolutely thrilled with. I Purchased mine as a very well used 2016 model year saw. It has 145 pounds of compression and is an absolute pleasure to run with a 20 inch Stihl light bar. I typically buy saws and flip them but this one is here to stay. It is quite honestly my go to felling saw. I hope your dealer will come through and get it straightened out for you.
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
No ...the clutch is NOT contaminated...I checked that last night when I cleaned up the saw pulled my bar and dwg. At this point I'm so discussed I really don't care what's wrong with the saw I just want out of this whole mess. The compression is so low, it doesn't have any power is my opinion. Yes I agree it has to have some power when the clutch slips but the saw just dogs down like your trying to run it with the brake on, it happens pretty fast before you can react almost every time. You can't even start a cut very well without it dogging down, you just have baby it into the cut. You have to keep the RPM high when you start and all the way thru the cut. I have to use a light hand listen to motor and lift up to keep it cutting... kind of shake out the saw and get the chain speed back up. That's why the RPM's are all over the place. It was a 15" Douglas Fir that been down for a year...my 034AV cuts thru this fine ...its not as fast but it doesn't stop and I don't have to baby it thru the cut using the same bar and chain. My 034 will cut that 15" round in 18-19sec. Best I can tell the 362 does it in 16-17 secs...it just hard to really gauge the time in the 362 cut because it stop so much and sometime it take a bit longer to get the chain going again. For the most part it stop 3-5 time in that 15" of wood. The log was cantilever over a big limb until I cut the last cookie so their was no bind on the rounds either on the 15" or the 23" log. The dang thing just bogs and stops...it doesn't bog like a fuel issue. It run running like rapped a ape then slows down bogs like the brake is on chain switch on...the chain totally stops. This saw would be fast if it would just run, its smooth, revs fast. I'm just done... I don't care what's wrong. I want this saw gone, I'm so discussed. I have lost all faith in Stihl's MS362 new design. After seeing another new saw off the shelf being at 110psi, I pretty much sure that how these new saws are. Especial all the kick back from the two shops I took this saw too. I don't need to run it any more, I've ran it enough now... its just flat terrible.
It's obvious something is wrong with your particular saw. I would not lump all MS 362's in the same performance level. It has nothing to do with a new design or 2nd gen engineering or any other lame excuses you have been told.....
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Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
Good money after bad while the saw is still under warranty? It would likely run $200 to get it done, bad idea.
I would pull the damn muffler!
Lol, not sure why the muffler hasn’t been pulled yet?
He is afraid they wont honor the warranty! But you see the problem! They don't care. I think he should reach out to other dealers. But I would pull the muffler and try to not leave marks.
Been yrs since I bought a new saw, and I’ve never spent a grand on one. You and I would just pull it down and re-ring it, then cut wood, not everyone is ready to do that. I actually enjoy the challenge of finding out what’s wrong and correcting the problem, been that way since my early teens!
What if it looks good in there? Then what ?
Check squish, put a Caber ring in it to try and bring the comp up, go from there. It’s not rocket science.
Did he say if it had a comp release? I think it didnt?
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Keep diggin then check squish, pull muffler, soap around decomp valve and spark plug, check impulse and fuel lines and carb.....this is all good on a used saw u spent 300 on but a new one u just drop it off at the dealer, leave it there like the turd it is and demand a credit or call corporate office
Lot of cash he spent!
TheStihlSlinger
ArboristSite Lurker
First post from a newbie here.
Love the site and all the great info.
I’ve been running a brand new 362 since mid January (Mtronic).
Can’t say enough good things about it.
Running a 25” bar in Canadian hardwood ( mostly sugar maple and hickory) even did a bit of milling with it. Lots of power and super reliable.
Love the site and all the great info.
I’ve been running a brand new 362 since mid January (Mtronic).
Can’t say enough good things about it.
Running a 25” bar in Canadian hardwood ( mostly sugar maple and hickory) even did a bit of milling with it. Lots of power and super reliable.
TheStihlSlinger
ArboristSite Lurker
Haven’t done a compression test but feels like lots on the pull cord.
Sugar Maple in your Avatar right?
Does it have the reg plug or the new smaller plug?
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