McCulloch Algebra

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I think I would go to the trouble to get the manual oiler working. Might need some extra oil on that long bar.

I tend to agree. Math provides the elegant scenarios in either direction. Manual = 8/48, Auto Only = 9/36.
 
I tend to agree. Math provides the elegant scenarios in either direction. Manual = 8/48, Auto Only = 9/36.

Sorry to ask questions in your rebuild thread but i dont understand what the math proves... can you briefly explain? thanks
 
If your afraid of drilling the block,
Then i would put it together and
back out the auto oiler screw and
see if it is enough. If not then you
know what to do.
The good is the tank is easy to remove.



Lee
 
Lee best drill the block for the pushrod i did on my 101 into an SP125 cause that way you can prime the oil system.

I found that the difference between the various 101's and the SP125'S is not that great so i have pursued the route of the SP125c too another level with great results

McBob.
 
Sorry to ask questions in your rebuild thread but i dont understand what the math proves... can you briefly explain? thanks

Ask away, heck I'm no expert either. Was going to use an 8 pin behind the 48 or a 9 behind a 36, but...

Lee best drill the block for the pushrod i did on my 101 into an SP125 cause that way you can prime the oil system.

I found that the difference between the various 101's and the SP125'S is not that great so i have pursued the route of the SP125c too another level with great results

McBob.

Bob says drill, so I'm drillin'!
 
v4c_452x339.jpg


v4d_454x339.jpg


bdc_11a.jpg


v4f_448x338.jpg


v4b.jpg



And when the aircleaner cover goes back on no-ones the wiser

v4001.jpg


v4003.jpg


v4002.jpg




McBob
 
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As i mentioned i have gone another level above the origional SP125c using the chrome bore to my advantage as it's better performance with it but you not getting to see the inside just yet i have a few bums to kick yet.
 
Lee best use the origional 125 stuffer as the kart ones are too thick on the base and you loose the stroke of the pump on the manual oiler

Heres how the saw performed at the 2008 Australian Nationals watch the saw on the left


 
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I have the V4, but it's going to take a lot of tank mods to get in there. I don't have the welder or skills to do it. The yellow one is going topless with a big ole carb. The donor 1-72 is waiting for that one on a shelf.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm more of a saw assembler than a builder right now. I didn't do the bottom end of the motor on this one and the ported one was built by a race shop here in Detroit.

No welding on mine either and it runs a V4 and the Mac BDC 35 mm carb

This saw is visually standard must appear stock from the outside
 
To get them going that hard the intake must at least be the V4 the rest are too restrictive and the V4 along with the BDC 35mm carb is the biggest you can shovel in there and still look stock
 
No welding on mine either and it runs a V4 and the Mac BDC 35 mm carb

This saw is visually standard must appear stock from the outside

Very nice. I assume there's an elbow or is that a sloper intake?

I weighed the options of doing this in a 125 or a hard-tail. I'm still happy with my choice, but you've got me thinking, which is good and I'm just as thankful for.
 
Well thanks, BOB :hmm3grin2orange:.

Between you showing me that 125 and the "opportunity" I was presented with today, I believe that this build just became 2...
 
Perhaps one day when I grow up and become responsible, I can lay my hands on a 101 as well.

Until then I will just have to find some time to play with these old clunkers...

Mark

I feel so sorry for you Mark!!!!! suscribing BTW

LOLOL!!!! Just kidding!!!!
 
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The Algebra has become Calculus...

I have been really disappointed in how restricted the reed passage was and seeing Leeha's 895 build confirmed that this thing would just be choked to death. It was my #1 concern in this build from go. Bob's Stock Appearing 125 really showed me what I wanted out of this build.

So, at the "fork in the road" for this build, I'm taking both paths and cutting everything in the middle down.

The 101 is going to move over to my SP-125 project frame with the fuel setup like Bob's 125. It'll make the 101 too hot to work, strictly a GTG special because it will overheat pretty quickly huffing through the BDC. I'll go down to a 36" bar or maybe a 32" if I can find one and run at least a 9-pin behind it. I dub this side of the fork SR-101.

So, what to do with the 790 carcass, 48890b carb, and MC-49E reeds? Turns out a guy was looking to get away from his MC-91s and concentrate on his 101s...

Yep.

This side of the fork is now known as the 791R and will inherit the 48" bar and 8-pin.
 
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