McCulloch Chain Saws

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One of my 610's has around 175psi compression and pulls a 16" really well. I have another that's got a 20" on it, but I haven't run it in wood yet and I haven't checked compression. They are heavy for the displacement and power. My uncle runs 24" full comp on his. I think that's probably really pushing the limits, and skip chain is probably a better choice if you've got more than 20" of bar on one.
 
There's an unwritten understanding on the 610's depending on the year and series they can run up to a 32 inch bar. Reason for this is the confusing badgeing of the 610. At one point it became an almost generic designation. Sears and a slew of other companies got in on their own version. And later it became the Beaver which in reality was a slightly smaller displacement 610 block. I've had about 4 over the years and the one that blew up before my latest would run a 24 inch no issue. And I know it would run a 32 because I bent a bar in the woods one day and the guy I was with had an extra 32 for his Mac which we assumed was either an 850 or similar because it didn't have numbers on it. But the 610 did pull the bar just bogged down alil in bigger wood.

On another thought I have a source for skipped tooth chain cheap. Picked up one for my 10-10 with a 20inch bar. Only charged 20 bucks for it. And believe me if you've never cut with a chain of this type try it once been looking for awile for one because IMO it just cuts better and lasts longer.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Payne-Power-Equipment/122505021141782
 
That is a very good price for one loop ... get more than that and these guys are better by a wide margin, because they can ship up to 6 chains for one price .... http://www.loggerchain.com/72JGX-Oregon-chain_c24.htm

The 610 does have its detractors; it was about 2# heavier than the competition at the time of introduction. It has a loyal following, however as it is versatile and dependable (besides that wonky oiler).
 
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That's where I get all my bars/chains from is the frawleys. I usaually have it in three days or less!.

Ok, now for a problem. My 6-10 everything but the cylinder and crank have been replaced. It doesn't have the throttle response I think this saw should have. it is very picky on the low adjustment and the idle has to be screwed in very far in order to idle reliably. it starts hot or cold just fine. it cuts just fine. if I open the throttle it revs to full throttle but no ware as fast as my 10-10. the 6-10 has the SDC-18 and the 10-10 has the SDC-2. do you think the venturi is too large for the 6-10 to idle properly as in it is way to rich at idle but since the venturi is big it needs to be over rich to accel properly? I have a spare SDC-2 I am thinking of rebuilding to test my theory buy was wondering if there is another thing I should look at first.
 
ODW - Discount Marine in Michigan did have some BP-1 rings, not sure if they still do. You could check with Bob Johnson as well...

Andy - Good stuff! Need a better shot of the fuel line/filter, looks like it could be a 10 Series or could be from one of the large frame top tank models. The diaphragms are certainly the metering diaphragms from the Walbro McCulloch flat back carburetors. Good find on those.

Dweeb - I have a few spares of the rubber plugs to fill the auto sharp hole. Send "conversation" if you are interested, I can do better than $11... The 300 and 600 Series saws were the tail end of the McCulloch era and those saws reflect the lack of direction at the time. Both are fairly reliable saws and were good value at the time, but neither were spectacular performers. For all the grief they get, the 600 saws will cut a lot of wood. I bought one that had been equipped with a 48" bar but I think that was pushing it way beyond a reasonable expectation.

6-10 - try another carburetor, the 6-10 is not a snappy as the 7-10 but should not be sluggish. I don't think the problem is that the SDC18 is too big since they used that one on some smaller saws like the CP55 and Super 2-10 as well. You may find that a good SDC2 works better than a haggard SDC18. Don't toss the SDC18 you may discover another home for it. Do you notice a lot of spit back when you run the saw without the AF installed? It could be just a case of the rings needing to seat in a bit.

Mark
 
I'm working on a Pro Mac 60 that has a completely destroyed oil tank.

Does this take a 10-10 oil tank, a 7-10a / 700 oil tank, or does it have one unique to it? I know the 70cc 10-series' have a larger bearing that necessitates a different oil tank than the 54cc's.
 
Mark, I rebuilt the saw in march and it has almost 20 tanks on it so far! it will hang on the rope forever so I don't think the rings need anymore seating! the SDC-18 is in perfect shape but may have an internal leak on the low circuit. I checked the needles on the best tune I could get and the low speed was only opened 1/4 turn and the high almost 1-1/2! I just installed a fresh SDC-2 I cleaned and kitted today while the kids where napping to see if its performance is better or worse. I haven't had a chance to even start and tune it yet. didn't want to wake the kids! I never get rid of my extras. made that mistake once and will hoard my mac parts forever.

Also, if I remember correctly was the SDC 18 used on some of the large frame macs?
 
I believe that felt's for the 33/35/39 series gear drives. The two narrower sections (far left and far right in the pic) were folded up 90 degrees when installed.
Thanks Aaron!

ODW, I looked for your rings, no luck (big shocker).

Mark, the same guy had a 3-25 diaphram as well, which was a good find...not a diaphram quite like those.

Bryan, you're a riot...unfortunately our driveway is concrete:laugh:

-Andy
 
I have to get a new wick for mine and haven't run across one yet at a good price. There is one on ebay now but I can't see paying 50 bucks for it. I may try to make something work myself or ill keep looking till I find one at a better deal. Id like to run that saw but can't at the moment unless I hold it level.

Anyway while we are on the subject of a 1-60 if anyone in here has a wick for one of these they wanna get rid of give me a holler I need one so I can cut with this gear grinder. I haven't been able to use it yet.

Nick

Nick, if you think you can make that wick that I picked up the other day work, let me know....

-Andy
 
I swapped from a fresh SDC-18 to a fresh SDC2 and the same results of a sluggish accel off idle and a very rich low adjustment with a high idle adjustment. the low screw is out almost 1.5 turns and the high out only 3/4ths turn. If I had an air leak would it idle high not low?
 
Normally an air leak would require turning the jets further open to compensate for the extra air. If the compression is good (sounds like you have that covered) you may need to look at ignition or perhaps the muffler is partially plugged?

What happens if you lean out the L setting a bit?

Mark
 
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Compression is great. The ignition is in good shape with the points set right at 26 degrees BTDC (set per the analog volt meter way) If I lean out the L on either carb it will stumble just like its too lean. I have found that with the SDC-18 the L needle id only open 1/4 turn for best accel and the SDC-2 has to be open almost 1-1/2 turns on the L. both carbs have the same accel when "tuned". I believe I have a welch plug leaking internally on the low circuit in the SDC-18 due to the L needle position.

Another ideal just popped into my head. The 6-10 has a "heavy" flywheel compared to the 10-10 flywheel. Do you think that could be a slow accel problem?

And another on the muffler. It has the reed style cover. do the louverd style have "better" engine performance. I guess I could piss off the neighbors and take the reed out and retune and see:laugh:
 
Howdy fella's......this question may have been answered before but I would like to know what the logic is behind the model names and figures of the Mac Saws.

For ex : 1-63 : what does the 1 stand for, and what the 63. And what with 2-10, 5-10, 10-10 etc.
Same for box type saws like 200, 250, 550 etc.

I never have seen this debate before.
 
I'm working on a Pro Mac 60 that has a completely destroyed oil tank.

Does this take a 10-10 oil tank, a 7-10a / 700 oil tank, or does it have one unique to it? I know the 70cc 10-series' have a larger bearing that necessitates a different oil tank than the 54cc's.

Anyone got an answer to this?
 
Anyone got an answer to this?

I don't know. I have not had success interchanging PM800 cases which has let me to believe they are matched pairs. Anyway, if your saw is a PM60 not a SP60 and it is a saw you intend to keep, I have an NOS cylinder assembly that I will give you for Christmas. PM me if you are interested. I am a slow shipper; I still have a SP70 to box and ship to Aaron from months ago. Ron
 

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