Lol nice!!!
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Hey guys.
Which of the newer Mac saws use the larger stud "D096" mount bars?
Which of the newer Mac saws use the larger stud "D096" mount bars?
I've seen that trick. Just wondering what saws came with the larger studs?
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Mark, how did you get the JB weld to flow so nice in that oil tank repair?
I used some but it was quite thick
I used some but it was quite thick
The large frame saws from the D-44 all the way through the SP125 including the later gear drive saws all had the 3/8" bar studs. The only 10 Series saws that used 3/8" studs from the factory were the gear drive models.
Walter - warm the piece before you apply the JB Weld and then warm it again once applied and it will flow out nicely. I have a heat gun but a hair dryer would work as well. Don't try to use the 5 minute stuff for this kind of repair as it will set up too quickly.
I cut and split a load on Saturday morning using my PM55 and 7-10, both saws are really a lot of fun to run.
Mark
Walter - warm the piece before you apply the JB Weld and then warm it again once applied and it will flow out nicely. I have a heat gun but a hair dryer would work as well. Don't try to use the 5 minute stuff for this kind of repair as it will set up too quickly.
I cut and split a load on Saturday morning using my PM55 and 7-10, both saws are really a lot of fun to run.
Mark
peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi All , Chasing a set of PISTON RINGS P/N 69305 for super 797 if any one can help me out please
Peter
Also AFTER THE IPL SUPER 797
Peter
Also AFTER THE IPL SUPER 797
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
@ ray benson
3-25 Update.....I acquired a good diaphragm and the saw starts and runs great at idle and wot - as long as it is setting level. If I tilt it, it floods out immediately but restarts after clearing with a few pulls. Maybe the diaphragm is set a little too high? I thought there might be some fuel pooled in the bottom end but it runs out fine at wot and I had it running probably 15 minutes. Also thought it could be crank seals but I never saw one quit this quickly from that.
Drptrch
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mite be getting these from an estate clean up
don’t really know condition except for photos. They were found in a box in storage
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Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Would anyone be able to do a desription of the 10 series Mcculloch saws? Hi lighting differences improvements etc performance comparisons as well. Esp the 70 and 80 cc units.
These saws I find most enjoyable and appealling haha. Means i need more of em right?
These saws I find most enjoyable and appealling haha. Means i need more of em right?
Final update - I dropped the diaphragm setting about 1/8" and it's much improved. As long as I keep the throttle open, it will run sideways. Still a little rich but it's OK for all I will ever use it. I may get back into it at some point. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. Special thanks to Mark.
All of these are my opinion and subject to significant error. Based on my limited experience with each:
54 cc
1-10, 2-10, 3-10 with the "bullfrog" carburetor, rather mediocre saws with balky acceleration
1-10 with cube carburetor, comparable to the other 54cc saws
CP55, with good anti-vibe one of the best in this size if you can deal with the slightly more bulky model
10-10 variants, I prefer the earlier models with the short clutch cover as I find the PM models a bit heavier and too bulky. I also have a 10-10 Super but I don't think there is any significant difference with the other 54cc models.
57cc
PM55, one of my favorites, but lack of anti-vibe means you may not want to run it all day
PM555, basically the PM55 with a long clutch cover, I prefer the short
PM570, anti-vibe version of the PM555, more comfortable to run but the extra bulk makes it less maneuverable
10-10S, I believe they all have the long clutch cover, slightly heavier and less maneuverable but overall very nice, peppy saws
60 cc
PM60, certainly better performance than the 54cc, less distinct advantage over the 57cc examples
SP60, with the anti-vibe these are saws you can run all day...with good hearing protection
70 cc
4-10 with the bullfrog, don't know yet as I don't have one operation at this time. I do have a NOS cylinder now so one day...
5-10, 6-10, nice 70 cc saws but lack of anti-vibe means you may have a buzz in the fingers when you are finished
7-10, I think this is the best of the 70cc rigid saws. I have run mine against a like new PM700 and the 7-10 was clearly faster
PM700, many people think these saws are really strong, but only if they haven't run a good 7-10
CP70, very nice saw with good anti-vibe, my guess is they can hold their own with the 7-10 but will be someone heavier and bulkier
SP70, again very nice saws with good anti-vibe. I have one with NOS cylinder and piston that runs very strong with a 24" bar, I don't think it is a quick as my 7-10 with a 20" bar
82cc
CP80DX, SP80, SP81, these are spectacular performers and amazing power to weight and very good anti-vibe
SP81E, with the electronic ignition these can run better than the 80 and 81
PM850, very possibly the best overall performer of the 82 cc saws, the long clutch cover does add to the bulk
PM805/800/850 Super, the oversize muffler really controls the noise. I don't find a major drop off in performance compared to the SP80/81/81E or PM850 but they do seem to work better with a longer bar and lack some of the quickness of the prior models
DE80, mine is not as fresh as some other 82cc models I have but it does seem somewhat anemic by comparison
PM8200, I think this one is quicker than the PM800 variants but doesn't like the longer bar as well. I have two and I find they have a substantial vibration at high RPM.
Mark
54 cc
1-10, 2-10, 3-10 with the "bullfrog" carburetor, rather mediocre saws with balky acceleration
1-10 with cube carburetor, comparable to the other 54cc saws
CP55, with good anti-vibe one of the best in this size if you can deal with the slightly more bulky model
10-10 variants, I prefer the earlier models with the short clutch cover as I find the PM models a bit heavier and too bulky. I also have a 10-10 Super but I don't think there is any significant difference with the other 54cc models.
57cc
PM55, one of my favorites, but lack of anti-vibe means you may not want to run it all day
PM555, basically the PM55 with a long clutch cover, I prefer the short
PM570, anti-vibe version of the PM555, more comfortable to run but the extra bulk makes it less maneuverable
10-10S, I believe they all have the long clutch cover, slightly heavier and less maneuverable but overall very nice, peppy saws
60 cc
PM60, certainly better performance than the 54cc, less distinct advantage over the 57cc examples
SP60, with the anti-vibe these are saws you can run all day...with good hearing protection
70 cc
4-10 with the bullfrog, don't know yet as I don't have one operation at this time. I do have a NOS cylinder now so one day...
5-10, 6-10, nice 70 cc saws but lack of anti-vibe means you may have a buzz in the fingers when you are finished
7-10, I think this is the best of the 70cc rigid saws. I have run mine against a like new PM700 and the 7-10 was clearly faster
PM700, many people think these saws are really strong, but only if they haven't run a good 7-10
CP70, very nice saw with good anti-vibe, my guess is they can hold their own with the 7-10 but will be someone heavier and bulkier
SP70, again very nice saws with good anti-vibe. I have one with NOS cylinder and piston that runs very strong with a 24" bar, I don't think it is a quick as my 7-10 with a 20" bar
82cc
CP80DX, SP80, SP81, these are spectacular performers and amazing power to weight and very good anti-vibe
SP81E, with the electronic ignition these can run better than the 80 and 81
PM850, very possibly the best overall performer of the 82 cc saws, the long clutch cover does add to the bulk
PM805/800/850 Super, the oversize muffler really controls the noise. I don't find a major drop off in performance compared to the SP80/81/81E or PM850 but they do seem to work better with a longer bar and lack some of the quickness of the prior models
DE80, mine is not as fresh as some other 82cc models I have but it does seem somewhat anemic by comparison
PM8200, I think this one is quicker than the PM800 variants but doesn't like the longer bar as well. I have two and I find they have a substantial vibration at high RPM.
Mark
Grumpster69
ArboristSite Lurker
Good evening and hello: This past weekend I was cutting some wood with my trio of saws. McCulloch Pro Mac 10/10, McCulloch 610 and Stihl 025. The problem popped up with the 610. It would start and run fine during idling. However, as soon as I started to pull the trigger, it would stall. This happened 3 times before I gave up.
Question please: Is it worth fixing? If I take it to a local chainsaw repair shop, I'm afraid the repair bill will exceed the value of the saw.
What would you do?
Thank you for any commentary and advice.
Question please: Is it worth fixing? If I take it to a local chainsaw repair shop, I'm afraid the repair bill will exceed the value of the saw.
What would you do?
Thank you for any commentary and advice.
Don’t have near the varied experience as Mark’s, but the performance jump from my PM700 (owned since new) to any 82cc MAC is much more than the simple increase in displacement would indicate.
Can’t really comment on the “old” versus “new” conventional intake 82cc MACs, but I can say the newer ones continue to surprise me with how well they run with a buried 33” bar. I don’t have much time with the DE80 but with the rpm governed at 10,000 rpms it leaves one with the impression that it is not as strong as the conventional intake saws. I suspect that they are just as strong in big wood with long bars but I don’t know.
Just from feel alone, I have not found a noticeable increase in performance with any of these mods: ceramic coated piston; 1/16” off the piston skirt on intake side; smoothing of ports; hole in carb shield; or replacing the new big muffler with the old small muffler. I have perceived a small increase with a slight timing advance (chipped crank key way allowed me to play with the timing), but could be in my head only. Based on my experience, the only thing that I will bet improves performance of the big muffler saws is either a hole in the muffler, a busted or removed screen, or a screen that is kept thoroughly clean. Once the screen is clean, the best way to keep it clean is to run synthetic mix oil and keep the bar oiler in good repair.
Ron
Can’t really comment on the “old” versus “new” conventional intake 82cc MACs, but I can say the newer ones continue to surprise me with how well they run with a buried 33” bar. I don’t have much time with the DE80 but with the rpm governed at 10,000 rpms it leaves one with the impression that it is not as strong as the conventional intake saws. I suspect that they are just as strong in big wood with long bars but I don’t know.
Just from feel alone, I have not found a noticeable increase in performance with any of these mods: ceramic coated piston; 1/16” off the piston skirt on intake side; smoothing of ports; hole in carb shield; or replacing the new big muffler with the old small muffler. I have perceived a small increase with a slight timing advance (chipped crank key way allowed me to play with the timing), but could be in my head only. Based on my experience, the only thing that I will bet improves performance of the big muffler saws is either a hole in the muffler, a busted or removed screen, or a screen that is kept thoroughly clean. Once the screen is clean, the best way to keep it clean is to run synthetic mix oil and keep the bar oiler in good repair.
Ron
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
I say fix it yourself. A shop has to bill you full shop rate and you likely get the apprentice. Best bet would be find a guy that loves old saws and either have him fix it or give it to him. All the best whatever you decide. Wished I lived close, would gladly sort it out
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you Mark for your descriptions of all those saws. I indeed prefer the anti vibe and happy to have a couple of those in the CP70L and soon SP80
Walter
Walter
It sounds like fuel related. These carbs are not as complicated as you would think. Get you a rebuild kit and a can of carb cleaner and have at it. I think on the Zama website it gives a good step by step on how to clean and rebuild this type of carb. And also youtube has several good videos on rebuilding these carbs. While I was doing it I would replace the fuel filter. Not a very hard job.
Brian
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