McCulloch Chain Saws

[Eccentric]

eccentric, I have been messing with the 550 a little bit this week, I found the check valve in the primer was stuck, took care of that and now the primer works fine and the saw normally starts in one or two pulls. I hope to take it to mweba's tomorrow and do a little cutting to make sure everythings is working properly. After that its just a matter of draining the fluids, removing the bar and chain for shipping, and getting it packed and ready to go.

I have a 1-70 as a basis for a project for JJ that needs to get boxed up as well, hopefully I will have a little time in the next few days to try to get a few things caught up around here.

Mark

You're a busy man, between travel/work and McCulloch stuff (plus Family and Home stuff too I'm sure). I'm quite enthused about your McCulloch 550. I have all of the bits I need for the McCulloch 77. Randy gave me a bar clamp/adjuster assembly, and Brad M. sent me bumper spikes and bar studs.

Poured over the IPL and I'm ready to dive into the carb assemblies this weekend. If I can escape babysitttin' duty tomorrow, then I'll get into it in the AM. Jenn sez I'll be OK for some tinkerin' time. Good to have a kitchen pass...

The pump section of the carb system is actualy contained inside of the tank......a good four inches above the metering section. Crazy. Gotta remove the top half, then remove the pump cover and diaphragm to see what's inside.

The metering section of the carb system is below the tank. Gotta remove the tank to get to it and crack it open. The jets (called venturis in the IPL) are within the upper handle portion of the handle/chassis/throttle body casting. I may have to remove the rotary valve cover casting (which is under the flywheel) to get to them. Hopefuly I can blast the passages clean from above or below as I don't realy want to get that far into the saw before sending it off....

 

[rwoods]

Automatic oiler question PM800

The automatic oiler on one of my recently purchased PM800s does not work. Manual oiler does. I took the cover off and discovered two (2) oil cap retaining springs under the oiler. I don't have a real understanding of how the oiler works, but I am wondering if these retaining springs could interfere with it functioning. I really don't want to take the oiler out and apart. I have half a dozen or so 30 to 40 inch red oaks to fell this weekend for a friend so I'm anxious to run this particular saw. If I don't hear in time, I'm just going to put the cover back on and see if it begins to work. Thanks. Ron

 

[heimannm]

Briantutt - sometimes the fabric/polymer is used as a "back up" behind the thin rubber diaphragm, on other carburetors/applications it is not necessary. Look closely at the one you take apart to see how it was done, assuming it was done correctly by the last one to work on it. You should be able to find some information on line as well, just look the the manufacturers site.

Ron - if the saw has been setting for a while it is possible that the check valve in the pump is stuck. If running it a bit does not free it up you will likely have to take it all the way apart for a thorough cleaning and inspection. PM me with an e-mail address if you don't have an IPL you can refer to. By retaining springs I assume you mean the thin "clip" that holds the pump in place? I don't think doubling up on the spring would have any negative impact on the pump, it is simply holding the pump in position.

Did you get started on the big oaks today as planned?

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Mark, thanks for the offer; I have the IPL's. The spring clip I was referring to is the little bent spring wire that threads through the small chain on the oil cap. That wasn't the problem so I guess I'll take it apart. When I got some better light last night after my post, I discovered that this oiler doesn't have the flat two prong spring as shown in all the IPLs I have for these saws*. It has a flat spring that it attached with the adjuster bolt, so it should be fairly easy to remove and re-install. I had a hard time re-installing the spring on my 8200 (flat two prong type) and that is why I didn't want to tear into this one last night.

I cut ten or eleven oaks today. Most were about 30 to 34". I cut all but one with the 800 while manually oiling the 28" bar. After butchering the largest one (around 40") and tiring myself out, I gave it a rest with one tree left, and went to help out with our community firewood ministry. They were all worn out when I got there so there wasn't much for me to do, but one offered me his Husky with a 36" bar when I told him of my sorry workmanship. I accepted his kind offer and returned to cut the last tree which was a double trunk just below shoulder height with each about 32". It was nice to have a bar that when all the way through with an inch or so sticking out although the saw didn't cut quite as well nor did I feel real comfortable with it (probably just a mental thing and unfamilarity but it just seemed like the blade was constantly either in my arm or my face)**. Today just adds to my wondering of what I should do for a felling saw. There are so many large oaks dying around here I should have the opportunity to fell similar sized trees for several more years although not 10 at a time (more likely 1 or 2 max).*** I'm on my way to age 55. Cutting while on my knees to maximize the log wears me out, and I don't get enough practice to match cuts very well on trees bigger than my bar. Early in the morning, I was resolved that power is not really an issue just bar lenght. I was also doubting today that I could handle a SP125C at chest height. But I like Macs so I'll keep looking for a 32" bar and dreaming of a SP125C or a SP105 with a 36" bar.

Ron

*Except my IPL for the PM850 which doesn't show any type of spring or support for the oiler.

**The Husky was a 575XP. It had plenty of power but I think the rakers were too high as it wouldn't eat up the wood on it's own - you had to keep considerable pressure on it.

***These larger trees are my best source for sawing and for free wood because everybody and his brother around here has a chainsaw but most won't fool with trees of this size. I try to save any logs I can and use the rest for firewood.

PS I bought another PM800 today. I hope to find it in good shape when it gets here.

 

[boda65]

PM 800 action

Finished up the large oak I've been working on. Got a chance to use my formerly NIB (aren't all saws formerly NIB?) Pro Mac 800. Took a few fuzzy videos, sorry, but it's the only movie recorder I have. Heres a picture of the 5th and final load. I don't have it all split and stacked yet, but it looks like a good 2 to 2 1/2 cords.

Here is a video of bucking the last piece, and one of noodling a big round.

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[rwoods]

Jim, they say Macs are too heavy. It looks like you have overloaded your truck by trying to carry two at once. They may be heavy but they'll sure cut some wood. Thanks for posting. Keep us advised of your use of your SP105, too. Ron

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Nice that some big wood there

 

[briantutt]

Mini MAC 110

THEY ARE MULTIPLYING!

 

[sachsmo]

Does that 110 use a 3/8 low profile chain?

I got a 110 recently and need a chain for it. There is no stamping on the bar, and script on it says 14". anyone know the drive link count and size chain for a mini Mac with 14" bar?

 

[RandyMac]

THEY ARE MULTIPLYING!

I have a box of crap for those little leg biters, if you need something, I will send the whole mess to you for shipping.

 

[8433jeff]

Do not set any two of them together, as they WILL multiply. Resist all temptation to pick them up, no matter how cheap, or good looking they are, they are Trouble. 14" bars are usually 49 DL for Macs in 3/8's LP.

 

[Deprime]

I'm not afraid to admit it. I love those little saws!

 

[boda65]

Jim, they say Macs are too heavy. It looks like you have overloaded your truck by trying to carry two at once. They may be heavy but they'll sure cut some wood. Thanks for posting. Keep us advised of your use of your SP105, too. Ron

Ron, I got a good chuckle out of that one. That poor old truck don't owe me anything. It was my main ride many years ago, now it is relegated to just sitting unless we need to haul something. Fortunately, this wood was only about 3 or 4 miles from my house.
Other than cutting off a large silver maple stump, the SP105 may not see action for awhile. I've got about 3 yrs worth of wood just by word of mouth. Some a little junky like catulpa and silver maple, but mostly oak, ash, hickory, mulberry, and a little black walnut. Gonna have to give some away, or stop cutting.
The oak was in a friend's yard. The only direction it could be felled was across his cement driveway, so he had a tree service take it down in pieces. The tree was part way hollow and had a huge honeybee colony. The HO is allergic to bee stings. He got stung 7 times and nearly ended up in ER. He is a doctor and had things on hand to deal with it, but still almost needed additional medical care.
Here is one of the biggest sections of the hive. When I took the pic, it had already been dug out of the wood by a racoon or some other critter.

Here is their front door

Some of the bees, including the queen apparently, survived 4 assaults by Orkin and were busy trying to save the colony. They started building a new comb hanging right under a branch on a neighboring tree. It's a little larger than a football

Jim

 

[rwoods]

Enjoyed the bee post. Hope you saw the ugly tree post.

 

[boda65]

Yes I did, those were some ugly trees. Those always make me nervous. I have a catulpa like that to take down at my dad's house. It's hollow and the trunk is not round, it kind of has 3 "lobes" to it. It is out in the open, so the only damage I can do is to my saws or myself. I'll probably do that this winter.
Jim

 

[briantutt]

Do not set any two of them together, as they WILL multiply. Resist all temptation to pick them up, no matter how cheap, or good looking they are, they are Trouble. 14" bars are usually 49 DL for Macs in 3/8's LP.

one, then two, now three...I am afraid to look in my trunk again:biggrinbounce2:

 

[Eccentric]

one, then two, now three...I am afraid to look in my trunk again:biggrinbounce2:

You have "junk" in yer trunk eh?:biggrinbounce2:


I have one of those little bastards too. Think it's a 120. Can't remember for sure. It was given to me years ago (in a case) in almost brand new condition. Chain still sharp. All the paint still on the bar, etc. P/C look brand new through the exhaust port.

The brother-in-law of my friend had let it set on the shelf for something like 10 years with gas in it. Tank and carb were hopelessly clogged with the most solid varnish I've ever seen in OPE. Couldn't get it out of the tank or carb without ruining both. The tank on those bastards is plastic, and has a non-removable fiber filter built into it. The carb body is largely plastic. Chemicals strong enough to remove the varnish killed the plastic tank and carb bits. One of these days I'll pick up a burned out saw offa CL, or from the recycling center and will canabalize the tank and carb from it for my saw. Until then, my little Mac will sit burried in a box deep within the bowels of my garage.....

 

[boda65]

Until then, my little Mac will sit burried in a box deep within the bowels of my garage.....

That's where they belong, deep within bowels.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Eccentric]

That's where they belong, deep within bowels.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Agreed. It's taken me about 15 years to get over my frustration with the damn thing enough to actualy think about working on it someday...

 

[heimannm]

ecc - Actually the filter element is removable, you pull the fuel line fitting out of the fuel tank first, then you can pull the filter out. Good idea to have a small supply of those snap in O-ring fittings on hand if you are going to work on the Mini Macs since pulling on it with pliers and slipping will result in a broken nipple for the fuel line.

Mark