McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
ecc - Actually the filter element is removable, you pull the fuel line fitting out of the fuel tank first, then you can pull the filter out. Good idea to have a small supply of those snap in O-ring fittings on hand if you are going to work on the Mini Macs since pulling on it with pliers and slipping will result in a broken nipple for the fuel line.

Mark

Interesting. I knew that was the case with the older mini-mac and Mac6 type saws. The tank on my saw was white plastic and appeared to have the nipple (which was also white plastic IIRC) and fiber filter glued in place when the tank was manufactured. I do recall pulling that nipple out. Seemed like I had to 'break' it loose. That was 15+ years ago though. The whole thing was gummed with about 1/4" of solid varnish on the floor of the tank as well. I tossed the tank and carb after the solvent ruined both...:bang:
 
heimannm running his 550.


<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/keHNlD0uh0g?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/keHNlD0uh0g?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
 
heimannm also allowed me to run his 797 on Friday. That is a real saw LOL

<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/b5rNO7AzpaM?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/b5rNO7AzpaM?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

I think Mark was trying to tell me something after my cut was done, but the echo of that monster made it impossible to communicate.
 
Mitch,

Would you mind posting the links for those videos? My browser doesn't work with embedded videos on this site (but does for some other sites........wierd). Thanks.:cheers:


Mark,

Is that the 550 we're trading, or your other one? Haven't seen the video yet so I can't look for the 'taped' grip and handle that would tip me off to "my" 550.:cheers:
 
Titan
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/YTu_iWwJx3M?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/YTu_iWwJx3M?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTu_iWwJx3M
 
Agreed. It's taken me about 15 years to get over my frustration with the damn thing enough to actualy think about working on it someday...

Lay down, after ingesting 3-4 fingers of your favorite hard liquor, and the feeling hopefully will pass.
 
Lay down, after ingesting 3-4 fingers of your favorite hard liquor, and the feeling hopefully will pass.

More than a few gallons of hard liquor have passed down the chute since I last worked on that saw. Only time has dulled that anger. However, it is indeed time to delve into the good stuff. I'm sittin' here reeking of stale gasoline (despite scrubbin and scrubbin). The better half won't let me near her tonite anyways...:D

It's time for a shot anyway.

Yes it is. Three fingers plus of my favorite brown whiskey is chillin on ice in front of me as I type. Mmmmmmmmm.....that was good!:cheers:


Hey Randy...........My 790 lives!!! While taking a break from cursing the long deceased engineers who designed that 77, I decided to see if the 790 would speak. Flushed the foul syrup out of the bottom of the tank, refilled with fresh mix, spritzed a bit down the chute, then gave 'er a pull. Fired right off on the prime then shut down. Repeated a couple more times, and it ran on its own!

Had a bit of a scramble though. Seems that some former owner tinkered with the throttle linkage and the governor bits. Once the HL started drawing fuel on its own, the saw tried to rev towards destruction. Pushed the choke and fogged the 'skeeters to slow it down until I could get my finger on the throttle arm and bring it back to sanity. Revs and idles fine. Great sound. Even Rachel (the little one) likes it. Says the 77 is too loud though...

Pulled the fan shoud off (was held on with one screw) and discovered that somebody took a pair of dykes and cut the governor arm off! I thought the throttle linkage didn't feel "right" compared to your 790. It seemed to function fine however. Once she started, the linkage just rattled all apart. The trigger return spring seems to have died too.

Looks like that saw originaly had a flatback (the 'spit catcher' pad thingee is there, even though the HL19E tilly doesn't have a nipple for the line) and somebody swapped in a tilly from an older governor equipped mac. When they did the swap they did something wrong with the linkage. Gonna swap over the throttle arm, link, and trigger spring from your 200 to make things right.

That McCulloch 77 is amazing. You have to disassemble and remove the tank assembly just to get near the carb 'system'. It has the fuel pump section of the carb system within the tank. It pumps the fuel through about a FOOT of passages (over, down, and around) to the metering section of the carb system (which is over four inches below the pump section). Fuel is then fed back up from the metering section to the high and low speed venturies in the 'throttle gate' section of the carb. That section is part of the extremely intricate crankcase/chassis/handle casting.

The idle mixture needle is within the metering section. The main mixture needle is about four inches long, threads into the throttle gate/venturi section, has an 'arrowhead' shaped point (actualy it's rather 'male'), and is adjustable on the fly by a complex multi-piece spring loaded lever with your thumb. Crazy stuff. And I thought I was eccentric. R.P. McCulloch has me beat by a country mile!

Finaly got it all apart (well I still have to take apart the handle/throttle gate/venturi stuff) and the diaphragms are now soaking in the lemon juice/hot water bath. All kinds of foul-smelling stuff is floating to the surface. Hope the diaphragms are salvageable. Doubt there's any NOS pieces left. The pump diaphragm looks pretty good already. The metering diaphragm is extremely dried out and 'crackles' like a dead leaf...:bang:


I'll swap that bar over to your 790 and see if it will speak soon. It looks and smells better than mine did/does, so hopefuly it will roar to life.


Time for another sip...
 
Last edited:
That is good news Aaron!
If you need to put the best muffler parts on your 790, I'll send along a hockey puck for mine. Time to search for bars, I'm thinking 36" to 42", Cannons would be nice.
 
ProMac 610 for Parts

Piston looks good through exhaust port, turns over freely and has good compression. Has strong spark. Except for the missing side covers, the saw is complete. Asking US $45.00 obo for the unit plus shipping. PM for more details or discussion. Goball
 
That is good news Aaron!
If you need to put the best muffler parts on your 790, I'll send along a hockey puck for mine. Time to search for bars, I'm thinking 36" to 42", Cannons would be nice.

I'm liking your thinking my friend. Cannon bars just have "that look" about them, especially once the 'bluing' has worn off a bit.. Dead Sexy...:D

I also need to run a spark arrestor muffler on this saw. Send that hockey puck for yer 790.

I did some parts matching too. The 200 fan shrowd won't work on the 790, but the starter from it will bolt to the 790 shrowd without issue. The 790 shrowd has the bosses for a LH-start saw cast into it. I just need to drill three holes. I'll need a clutch cover (with adjuster) and a starter screen, as the 200 doesn't have one...

Are you wanting to repaint your 790? I'm leaning that way with mine.....but I also like the "authentic" look of an old warhorse. Maybe I'll just repaint the upper tank....(as that's just about all bare magnesium) and keep the rest of the paint. I'm sure I'll change my mind a few more times. I'll do your saw up however you want.:cheers:

I wrote down the numbers from our saws:
.
Your 790 has "790" to the left of the big round 'post' on the crankcase, and ""0310" to the right of said 'post'.

The top of the round 'post' is blank. It has a yellow tank top, black AF cover (although that could have been switched), a yellow kill switch button, an intact, connected 'spitback recovery system', a primer flatback, an intact air-vane governor, and a yellow painted alloy guard (such as on an older Mac like the chrome one on my 77) riveted over the black plastic fan showd grill.

My 790 has 1 76 81(with "81" below "76", and a horizontal "1" through "81") to the left of the 'post'.

The 'post' has "790" stamped (and overstamped) on top of it.

To the right of the post is "4322" with all four numbers overstamped with a horizontal "1". Below that number is 0277 (yes much larger than the other numbers) stamped 90degrees to the it (giving a "T" shape). The "0277" is overstamped.

This saw has a yellow tank top, a Tillotson HL19E (without a nipple for the 'spitback' system), the original 'spitback' pad and can (although not hooked up), a black kill switch button, a butchered air-vane governor, and no guard over the black plastic fan grill.
 
Last edited:
I got this little pro mac 55 a few days ago,it runs good.;)

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php
 
Mac ID plate question

On a SP 125 (according to the IPL's) is 600076
What does the D designate at the end of mine.
I believe I have a SP 125 C, as the model number is 600076D
Kinda wondering what the D stands for?


She needs some work, but it is a good runner that I want to strip down and really clean up! This one will be bugging you guys about quit a bit!!
 
Mac ID plate question

On a SP 125 (according to the IPL's) is 600076
What does the D designate at the end of mine.
I believe I have a SP 125 C, as the model number is 600076D
Kinda wondering what the D stands for?


She needs some work, but it is a good runner that I want to strip down and really clean up! This one will be bugging you guys about quit a bit!!

attachment.php
 

Latest posts

Back
Top