Thanks Poge.When I do a search it usually comes up nothing,or something completely different than what I'm looking for.Anyway,I pulled the check valve out ofg the tank & got the screw out,being careful not to launch that little spring.Nothing came out,it must be stuck in place.I got aa automatic oiler cleaned up & installed.The impuls hole was already open,no drilling required.I then filled the tank with oil & pumped the manual oiler & had oil shooting out at the bar pad in a few pumps.I'll be working on the rest of the saw tomorrow - engine/cylinder shield,points cleaning,installing a coil,installing tank handle,& rustling up a carb.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I finally got 10-10 #2 running today!It turned out after I pulled the carb & couldn't find anything wrong with it & put back on the saw that it was running just fine intermittently.This told me it wasn't fuel related at all,but ignition related.I pulled off the recoil & found the wire going from the chip to the coil was broken off at the coil.The little tab that's there to plug the wire onto was half broken off & the chip/points wire was barely touching that tab.I ended up switching out the coil & putting it back together a couple different times only because it was a real bugger to get the screw holes lined up right.I had a helluva time getting the saw to idle down to an acceptable level.I had to adjust the screw on the trigger & turn out the lo screw to get it down.There was no idle screw on the carb.
Hey Mark, thank you for the reply!
Ran the saw without any bar on, and the automatic oiler is definitely working (comes out of the small hole circled in the picture below).
I included pictures of the bar that I'm using and the protector plates that came with the saw...
Any feedback or suggestions are much appreciated!
-Brady
Ran the saw without any bar on, and the automatic oiler is definitely working (comes out of the small hole circled in the picture below).
I included pictures of the bar that I'm using and the protector plates that came with the saw...
Any feedback or suggestions are much appreciated!
-Brady
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That all looks quite correct Vizsla. Not sure I have any additional ideas without putting my hand and eyes on the saw.
Mark
Mark
Ed - quite a few of the SDC carburetors have an "internal" idle speed adjuster that is built right into the carburetor. Others of course utilize an external screw with a tapered end bear on the throttle lever to adjust the idle speed. If your saw had an "internal" adjuster carburetor and you replaced with with and "external" adjuster carburetor you won't have any way to set the idle speed unless you can bend the throttle rod just so...
Mark
Mark
Mark,I'm quite familiar with the idle screw on the SDC carbs & this was a first for me not seeing one on a SDC2.The tank handle had the screw on the trigger,so I was able to adjust it some there & the rest on the lo screw on the carb.I was afraid it'd be too rich,but not blowing out any excess smoke,none at all to be truthful about it.I don't think I cvould bend the throttle rod & have it ever work right again,Lol.
The screw on the trigger works in conjunction with the throttle latch to provide the part throttle needed when starting. In theory, unless you are using the throttle latch the screw on the trigger shouldn't have any impact on the throttle position or idle speed.
Mark
Mark
Thinking about Vizsala's non-oiling problem.Could the oil holes on the bar be plugged?Take a bar plate & run it down the entire length of the bar's chain slot.You might be surprised how much crud can accumulate in there in just a short time.And I found the bar plate fits in the chain slot perfectly for cleaning it
Brady,
Take the chain off and using a few washers over the studs to make up for the missing clutch cover, put the bar on with the inner bar plate, washers over the studs and put the nuts on.
Make sure you lift the bar and tighten the nuts.
Start the saw and check to see where the oil is going.
It should be flowing out of the hole that aligns with the oil channel in the saw case.
If it does, block the hole and see if it travels up into the driver slot in the bar.
Watch your fingers around the spinning clutch.
Nice job Jason! I just found out last night that the saw I thought was a D44 is a 1-70,too bad it's seized tighter than a drum.
I picked up this saw on Feebay the other day.The seller had it listed as a 10-10S because the air filter cover had been switched & he didn't know much about saws.I realized after I bought it that it was a PM 10-10,but in pretty good shape.I got the saw today & it took a little more work than I had expected (as usual).The muffler was hanging on by only one bolt.Fortunately I had a couple more complete muffler assemblies on hand,so I borrowed a few parts from them.I pretty much had to make new lock tabs on the lock plate,not an easy job.Then the coil was off the saw & the mountoing bolts were missing,so I borrowed them from another saw.I think the PO gave up on the saw because he couldn''t get any spark because it was missing the ground wire on the coil.He had put a chip in it & I was wondering if it was any good.I went to put the recoil on & that damn thing fought me tooth & nail,I ended up getting another recoil off the saw I borrowed the coil mounting bolts from.Finally I got the recoil on & checked for spark,it had spark.Now it was time for the test - I put a shot of fuel in the carb & it fired.Now I had to check the fuel filter - what fuel filter?It didn't have one,so I put a new one on & filled it up with fuel.I pulled 15 times & no go,that's my limit,then I prime.I primed it & it fired & kept running.I went to throttle up & got nothing,the throttle rod was unhooked at the trigger.OK,rehooked the throttle rod & it throttled up,but started cutting out,ignition problem.I'll have to replace the coil wire,it was shorting out where it runs through the opening on the rear of the saw,I always run the coil wire on the outside after I had the problem with my first 10-10A shorting out between the fins..I put a 20 in.Oregon bar & chain on this one because it has great compression.This saw wasn't used much at all.I'll be looking for a chain brake for it,it came with a clutch cover from a non-brake saw.
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Two thoughts: 1) If the saw is leaking bar oil when off, then you need to adjust the oiler for less flow otherwise it will pool oil and leak where you indicated when not running.
2) If 1 doesn't apply, then check your sealing surfaces. Your third picture looks to have a less than perfect seal between the outer plate and the clutch cover. You may need to give attention to all 8 surfaces to make sure they are flat and seal against each other when the bar is tightened.
Ron
I bought a PM310 a few days ago on Feebay for $15 as a parts saw.I have several of the 300 series saws,but just can't seem to get one to run.Such a PITA to work on.Anyway,I got the PM310 today & I thought just for the heck of it I'd see if it'd run.First I put a shot of fuel in the carb & it fired,so I knew the ignition was good.Next I put fuel in the tank & gave a few pulls,it wanted to run,but kept dying on me.I changed the fuel filter & that made a big difference,but the next thing I knew there was a big puddle of fuel on the driveway.I pulled the side cover off & saw that the plastic tank had a crack in it.Could I use an epoxy on the tank to seal the leak?I've used DevCon in the past & have had real good results with it.I need to replace the chain brake/side cover as it's all busted up.The seller said he found the saw in a scrap yard.The other thing with the saw was the recoil was a bit frazzled.The rope was hanging out a bit,so I took the recoil off & was going to put more tension on it,but noticed that when I pulled the rope out it didn't want to retract quite right.It acted like there was a bulge in the rope.I ended up putting 2 winds of tension on it & I pulled the rope out as far as I could,then it straightened out & now it retracts perfectly.This saw is unbelievably clean for being in a scrap yard.It looks as if this was a new saw & was never used to cut any wood at all.There's no sawdust or oil anywhere.I'll get some pics on here tomorrow to show how clean it is.I only fiddled with it for about 15-20 min.after I finished up on the PM10-10.
North East Tennessee MAC Report
Our firewood season is about to begin and already I am going to miss a couple of Saturdays. Nonetheless, I thought I would show those who don't know where most of the wood Brian and I cut goes. I took this picture last Saturday of the woodlot. There were four folks from the local cross-fit expanding their training to include running a wood splitter. The building is packed with split wood. It was a former practice bomb manufacturing plant. Fitting that the Deere skidsteer is a DOD armored veteran on loan from the Sheriff Department.
If history repeats itself most of the wood will be gone by Thanksgiving.
Ron
Our firewood season is about to begin and already I am going to miss a couple of Saturdays. Nonetheless, I thought I would show those who don't know where most of the wood Brian and I cut goes. I took this picture last Saturday of the woodlot. There were four folks from the local cross-fit expanding their training to include running a wood splitter. The building is packed with split wood. It was a former practice bomb manufacturing plant. Fitting that the Deere skidsteer is a DOD armored veteran on loan from the Sheriff Department.
If history repeats itself most of the wood will be gone by Thanksgiving.
Ron
I've never looked in a scrap yard. Not above it I just wouldn't know where to start. Who to call and things like that.
My older brother got an almost new Stihl MS311 out of a scrap yard only because his daughter's BF works there & saw it come in.It was seized,but he got it freed up & it runs great.He asked me if I'd be interested in any saws that might come in & I said sure - old Macs & old Homelites.I guess in the last 2 yrs.no saws ever came in,or he just couldn't be bothered.More of the latter I think.
Ed those 1-70s have a cart engine in them that have quite the following.
I bought this Wildcat on Feebay a few days ago & got it today.The seller said he could only get it to run for a few seconds then it'd die.I figured it was a plugged fuel filter & the price was cheap enough - $32.50.I changed out the fuel filter first thing,then fueled it up & it ran & ran & ran.It's missing the chain brake flag,but I think I have one here from a PM310 that'll fit.
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