G70 good saw to keep an eye out for.A couple updates...
Now that my summer work and general busy schedule is winding down, I have decided that it's finally time to reassemble that Super Pro 81 that I lucked out on and got for $30 about a year ago.
Of course, there's just a tiny problem with that...
You see, I got this back when I was still quite new to obtaining and working on oldschool chainsaws. I remember when I got the SP81 that is was in a very questionable condition. The compression was very good, but it had no spark, a good amount of exterior mag rot, and many of the screws and bolts had been replaced with threaded rod and nuts with washers. Because of all that, I got the idea in my mind to simply disassemble the entire thing so that I could find anything that was wrong with it, right down to assessing the condition inside the cylinder.
In hindsight, I probably didn't need to go quite that far, but that's beside the point. My issue now is simple: I can't remember off the top of my head where everything goes.
Again a product of my inexperience back then, but I tore the saw down on my old workbench, which also was(and still is) sharing space with a partially disassembled seized Homelite 700D. Parts and pieces were neatly sorted out into trays and bins, but they weren't labeled, and things have a tendency to get mixed together after a year. That's bad enough as-is, but then you have to remember that the saw didn't even come with all of its original fasteners.
What I'm getting at is this: I may be asking some really dumb questions in the near future if I can't figure out from the IPL which screw or bolt is supposed to go where.
Anyway, since the saw is completely torn apart, I want to make sure I rebuild this SP81 the right way, so that it'll hopefully be running strong years from now.
What should I do while I have the cylinder separated? The only thing I had really done back then was clean the piston. I know I should check the ring gap, but what else should I do?
Also, when I go to put it back together, I'll need a tube of some sort of sealant like Yamabond, right?
Second, here's something that is a bit more exciting. I was talking with some people lately, and as it turns out I may have just learned about an old timer in the area who, at least at one point in time, had a barn stuffed with approximately 200ish saws that he got from the old local logging camps and dealers as they closed down or changed brands. Supposedly mostly 60's era McCullochs but with some older and newer stuff mixed in of other brands from around the same time.
I'm trying to work out a way to get in contact with this person and see if he's interested at all in having someone come to look around and buy some stuff, if said saws still even exist.
Here's my question regarding all of that though: If there actually is an untapped treasure trove of old saws that I get to look through, is there anything specific like exceptionally rare models that I should keep an eye out for? I know about stuff like the BP-1 and LeSabre, but are there any others?
This mythical hoard probably doesn't exist, but it's fun to imagine that it does.
Can you lace a rubber band around the throttle and choke linkage?, thats basically what the rubber factory peice is.I came up with this to keep the choke locked in for starting my 2-10. It works but I might try to come up with something better.
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As long as its not missing chrome it should be good to go.The replacement piston for my DE80 arrived last week, it’s an “A” as advertised. The cylinder’s stamped “A” too, so should be a fit.
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So now to get it apart and check that cylinder. It doesn’t look great through the exhaust port…
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I didn't think of that, would be less scratchy than a piece of wire. I don't have any rubber bands though.Can you lace a rubber band around the throttle and choke linkage?, thats basically what the rubber factory peice is.
I came up with this to keep the choke locked in for starting my 2-10. It works but I might try to come up with something better.
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I came up with this to keep the choke locked in for starting my 2-10. It works but I might try to come up with something better.
Is your 2-10 with the push choke not equipped with the “push and turn” choke button? Push in and 1/8 turn CCW to lock?I came up with this to keep the choke locked in for starting my 2-10. It works but I might try to come up with something better.
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Whaaaaaaat? I didn't know about this!Is your 2-10 with the push choke not equipped with the “push and turn” choke button? Push in and 1/8 turn CCW to lock?
I cannot make it out fully in your photo but the detent/slot appears to be there. If not present you could replace it with that version of the button or cut the slot very easily yourself with the button removed.
Just throwing that out there for ya.
cheers
I've been reluctant to post this...,
They probably also show the McCulloch carbs.Both the IPLs I have say it should have a primer.
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