McCulloch Chain Saws

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Yes I have Zach. That's why I'm converting my "790" Saw of Mystery over to LH start. It has RH start and a Tilly HL with a choke. For now, the drill is as follows:

1)Place right knee on tank cover just behind handlebar.

2)Place heel of right hand on top of the rear grip (but backwards from 'normal').

3)Squeeze throttle with middle, ring, or pinky finger of right hand.

4)Press choke button down with thumb of right hand.

5)Pull rope with left hand, and pray she lights soon so you can get the hell out of that awkward possition.

That saw's actualy not that bad as far as starting is concerned, thank God. If the RH starter assembly on it wasn't so beat up, I might actualy leave it as is. Since I have all the LH start stuff available however, I'm just gonna make me a "790L" instead...:cheers:

Just put a 36" or longer bar on it. Then you can rest the bar on a stump or a log and hold the rear handle with your left hand and squeeze the choke and throttle. Then pull with your right. You won't need to go to the gym anymore if you start the big right hand McCullochs that way.

Gary
 
Ha!!! One more added to The Rolls. Look at 'em. He can't even let go of the saw...:ices_rofl:



Yes I have Zach. That's why I'm converting my "790" Saw of Mystery over to LH start. It has RH start and a Tilly HL with a choke. For now, the drill is as follows:

1)Place right knee on tank cover just behind handlebar.

2)Place heel of right hand on top of the rear grip (but backwards from 'normal').

3)Squeeze throttle with middle, ring, or pinky finger of right hand.

4)Press choke button down with thumb of right hand.

5)Pull rope with left hand, and pray she lights soon so you can get the hell out of that awkward possition.

Thats quite an operation for you to get it started.
I find it much easier to put left hand on rear handle
with big finger on throttle, thumb on choke and pull
rope with right hand. Very simple.


Lee
 
Just put a 36" or longer bar on it. Then you can rest the bar on a stump or a log and hold the rear handle with your left hand and squeeze the choke and throttle. Then pull with your right. You won't need to go to the gym anymore if you start the big right hand McCullochs that way.

Gary

Well Gary, send me a 36" or longer bar for that saw and I will do so!:ices_rofl:

Thats quite an operation for you to get it started.
I find it much easier to put left hand on rear handle
with big finger on throttle, thumb on choke and pull
rope with right hand. Very simple.


Lee

That saw currently has a little 19" bar on it (with no chain). Gary hasn't sent me any big bars yet, and I haven't yet been lucky with feebay. If I pulled that sucker over with my right hand while only holding the saw at the rear handle with my left, the saw would 'wheelie' and bash me in the head (and more importantly, slam back on the deck afterwards). That saw doesn't have a comp release, and the P/C are pretty healthy. That big 'ol 7.3ci 77 jumps up and twists even with a 26" bar and a loop of 5/8" chain on it. NO comp release on that one either. Gotta hold that sucker down when pulling...:dizzy:
 
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That saw currently has a little 19" bar on it (with no chain). Gary hasn't sent me any big bars yet, and I haven't yet been lucky with feebay. If I pulled that sucker over with my right hand while only holding the saw at the rear handle with my left, the saw would 'wheelie' and bash me in the head (and more importantly, slam back on the deck afterwards). That saw doesn't have a comp release, and the P/C are pretty healthy. That big 'ol 7.3ci 77 jumps up and twists even with a 26" bar and a loop of 5/8" chain on it. NO comp release on that one either. Gotta hold that sucker down when pulling...:dizzy:

Glad you explained it. For a while I thought you were playing a new version of Twister. I enjoy watching Sawking start the old MACs on his shop talk videos. If he is outside he always crams the dog into the wood before giving it a rip. If he is inside it always fires on the first pull which I take to mean it has recently been started and is still warm. Ron
 
Glad you explained it. For a while I thought you were playing a new version of Twister. I enjoy watching Sawking start the old MACs on his shop talk videos. If he is outside he always crams the dog into the wood before giving it a rip. If he is inside it always fires on the first pull which I take to mean it has recently been started and is still warm. Ron

Feels like 'Twister', especialy when starting that big old 77. Believe me fellows, I tried just grabbing the hanlde with my left and pulling with my right (and many other variations). This was the 'most comfortable' way I could get these saws lit. I'm spoiled by my XL12's and all the 'modern' saws I've started over the years. Set high-idle lock, pull out choke, flip kill switch up, left hand on front handle, pulll with right hand...:cheers:
 
Sooooo... I gave the 250 to my buddy Matt tonight. He was totally shocked when I dropped it off...

Yellow Fever has been spread... Here he is... proud of his prize. He's hooked... Mu-ah hahahahahah!

His wife told me I'm an enabler... :laugh:

Gary

Way to hook up a friend!!!! Bet he cant wait to get out and cut with it.:clap:
And hope you at least taught the kid a lesson.
 
Yes I have Zach. That's why I'm converting my "790" Saw of Mystery over to LH start. It has RH start and a Tilly HL with a choke. For now, the drill is as follows:

1)Place right knee on tank cover just behind handlebar.

2)Place heel of right hand on top of the rear grip (but backwards from 'normal').

3)Squeeze throttle with middle, ring, or pinky finger of right hand.

4)Press choke button down with thumb of right hand.

5)Pull rope with left hand, and pray she lights soon so you can get the hell out of that awkward possition.

That saw's actualy not that bad as far as starting is concerned, thank God. If the RH starter assembly on it wasn't so beat up, I might actualy leave it as is. Since I have all the LH start stuff available however, I'm just gonna make me a "790L" instead...:cheers:

McCullochs that have the "push and hold" sliding cup choke button directly above the centerline of the rear handle are much harder to do "the drill" with than the D44/1-70/600/700/800/etc family saws (which have the cool pivoted oiler and choke/primer buttons). It's easiest just to be a wuss and have somebody hold the trigger in and push the choke button forward while you pull the rope. You're probably better off just using a spray bottle and spritzing some mix down the throat when cold-starting, unless the saw is wearing a big bar and you can rest the bar on a log.

The Choke setup used on the 250-type saws is MUCH better. I really like the push button with the "bolt action" locking setup. Best of both worlds IME. You can lock the choke on for cold starting, yet it's still useable as a 'momentary on' push button deal if you need to richen things up for a sec on the fly (or fog out some skeeters). Just gotta make sure the linkage is bent correctly so that the choke is fully locked when you engage the 'bolt action' button lock. I just wish McCulloch had put trigger high-idle locks on the saws. That would have freed up both hands, so you could hold the handlebar with one hand and pull with the other. For some damn reason, all of my C-series Homelites are missing the lock hardware, so I've had to start 'em Mac-Style until I eventualy install those bits. My XP1020 is the first saw of that family that actualy had all the lock hardware when I got the saw...

My McCulloch 77 is MUCH worse in the starting ergonomics department than any other Mac I've dealt with. It has a primer, so you don't have to hold the choke on (at least). However, you must hold the throttle open to get it lit. With the shape of the saw (tank is really tall), getting into "the possition" is terribly uncomfortable. The last time I cold started it, I drafted my 9 year old daughter into service. "Hold this trigger in until I tell you let go honey"....:D

Lee so far has been the closest to the proper way to start them.
1. Grab said say with left hand.
2. Slightly crack throttle open while simultaneously pushing the choke button.
3. Grab pull cord and take up any slack.
4. Pull it hard, Like a Man!!!

These simple steps should get ya started:hmm3grin2orange::ices_rofl: I am only running my mouth because I soon will get to figure out how to start one comfortably.:cheers:
 
Lee so far has been the closest to the proper way to start them.
1. Grab said say with left hand.
2. Slightly crack throttle open while simultaneously pushing the choke button.
3. Grab pull cord and take up any slack.
4. Pull it hard, Like a Man!!!

These simple steps should get ya started:hmm3grin2orange::ices_rofl: I am only running my mouth because I soon will get to figure out how to start one comfortably.:cheers:

Once Mark has my 77, I want to see you head up to his place and start that saw using the method you describe. You don't even need to choke it. Shoot video please!!!:ices_rofl:
 
Starting the RH saws is not such a task, but it does help to have a work bench or log to rest the saw on. Left hand on the throttle and choke, right hand on the starter, pull with authority.

My 1-85 still snatches the pull rope from me on regular occasions, others behave better.

The 840 has a good working primer so starting that one is a little easier, but still with the right hand pulling and left hand on the throttle.

Actually, I find using my left hand to start a saw to be a bit ackward nowdays. Glad I don't have too many of those odd ball saws with the starter on the left.

Mark
 
All this starting talk... I have a video primer on how to do it coming tonight...

I had fun baking cookies is all I'm sayin' for now.
 
Righthand starts.
Grasp the pistolgrip with left hand, open throttle, close choke, extend left arm forward while pulling back on rope, you may need to stand on something tall if using long bars.
They want to be started that way, the starter rope was meant to be pulled straight back, hence the roller. Check that angle, report back.
I prefer a more straight back pull, I rotated the starter on the 1-43 and on my beater 250.

mac1-43-1.jpg
 
You guy have got me feeling like a puss. Tomorrow I'm gonna find a log or a stump to hang that 1-70 across and pull the darn thing like a man. Even if it kills me. :(
 
Ahh may favorite part of working on a Mac. 100,000 flat head screws that if they dont strip the screw driver slips and you stab something, sometimes yourself. Havnt had to deal with the wick yet, thats next though.

Go to a place that sells guns and get a set of screwdrivers for guns. I bought a cheap set for 20$ and the work good for the large screws, not so good for the small ones. Tom
 
Starting the RH saws is not such a task, but it does help to have a work bench or log to rest the saw on. Left hand on the throttle and choke, right hand on the starter, pull with authority.

My 1-85 still snatches the pull rope from me on regular occasions, others behave better.

The 840 has a good working primer so starting that one is a little easier, but still with the right hand pulling and left hand on the throttle.

Actually, I find using my left hand to start a saw to be a bit ackward nowdays. Glad I don't have too many of those odd ball saws with the starter on the left.

Mark

Speaking of oddball saws, hows that 47 I sent to live east of the river. Feeble minds want to know.
 
Currently on display in the museum, about #10 on the list waiting for attention.

Soon, very soon I will get serious about searching out some parts that may be needed when I delve into the really old ones.

Mark

Give a shout out when she's running. Need a field trip.

Jerry
 
Darn youtube appears to have dined on my 1st video... 45 degree cold start of the Super 797...

Mad as I am, here's the 2nd vid. The 1st and 3rd may have to wait upon tomorrow...

Starter rules still apply.

1-82 with 9/16 full comp followed by Super 797 with .404 skip in borer killed ash trunk. Struggled to get the 1-82 loaded up off the governor, guess I need bigger wood (or governor bypass). For those of you with a kick@$$ sound system, turn it up to 11 then pretend you can feel it...

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