McCulloch Chain Saws

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Which diaphram Brian.
If the fuel pump diaphram and gasket are reversed
then it wouldn't pump any fuel. If the metering diaphram
and gasket are reversed then it would flood.



Lee
 
It would have been the metering diaphragm. When looking through the IPL I realized that I had them the wrong way. The others should be right. It may have been flooding, it would pop like it wanted to run but would die out like the low was too rich.
 
Tinkered with the freebie 1-53 this weekend. She runs, but only on what gets dumped down the carb. So a rebuild and new fuel lines are in order. But a question on the carb. It's a Tilly HL63E, does the same rebuild kit for the HL63D (RK-88 I think) work for this one?

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A question on the bar that came on the saw too. It is the bar on top in the first pic and on the right in the second pic. It is wider at the tip but narrower on the slotted end than the bar that came on my 250. It has a "McCulloch Fortafied Tip" logo with the flying geese. (Can't get a good picture of the logo, sorry) The bar has 004091 for a part number. What series of saw did this bar orgnally come on?

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I been looking for some info on setting the points properly on the 1-70. Acres excellent site says "just breaking with timing pin installed". Could someone please tell me what this means? I'm new to the Macs and ain't too shy to let you guys know when I need some guidance. Help please. :cheers:
 
EBAY 2-10 Rebuild

Some of you may know that I bid on a 2-10 on ebay a week or so ago. Not my best moment, but you know how it is when you get caught up in bidding.
It arrived today and I took some pictures. I plan on getting it running come heck or high water. It did pop when I put fuel in the carb. Otherwise its a mess, any advice would be appreciated.

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I been looking for some info on setting the points properly on the 1-70. Acres excellent site says "just breaking with timing pin installed". Could someone please tell me what this means? I'm new to the Macs and ain't too shy to let you guys know when I need some guidance. Help please. :cheers:


I remembered seeing this, and was able to find it. If this doesnt help hopefully somebody can elaborate.

Hi,

To check the timing on the D44, you insert a 1/4" 'timing pin' through the crankcase cover and rotate the flywheel until the pin enters the timing hole in the flywheel. At this point the breaker points should be just starting to open, and adjust accordingly. After making this adjustment, remove the timing pin and rotate the flywheel until the points are at their maximum gap. check that the gap is approx 0.018".

Good luck with that 73.

Regards,

Chris.
 
I had a 50/50 shot at getting it right the first time LOL. Apparently I need better odds.

Sit down and listen.
You're married and no ones told you about the 50/50/90 rule yet? If you have equal odds in making a choice involving women, theres a 90% chance you will make the wrong one. Sometimes, I'm not saying they aren't manly saws or that it doesn't take a man to run one, Macs are lot like women in that it takes a lot of prep to get them to put out, know of what I speak, Grasshopper?
 
I remembered seeing this, and was able to find it. If this doesnt help hopefully somebody can elaborate.


Originally Posted by CM76 View Post
Hi,

To check the timing on the D44, you insert a 1/4" 'timing pin' through the crankcase cover and rotate the flywheel until the pin enters the timing hole in the flywheel. At this point the breaker points should be just starting to open, and adjust accordingly. After making this adjustment, remove the timing pin and rotate the flywheel until the points are at their maximum gap. check that the gap is approx 0.018".

Good luck with that 73.

Regards,

Chris.


Thanks Brian, I'm thinking that will clear up things for me. :cheers:
 
Tinkered with the freebie 1-53 this weekend. She runs, but only on what gets dumped down the carb. So a rebuild and new fuel lines are in order. But a question on the carb. It's a Tilly HL63E, does the same rebuild kit for the HL63D (RK-88 I think) work for this one?

Yep. RK88-HL for a full kit, and DG5-HL for a gasket/diaphragm only kit.

A question on the bar that came on the saw too. It is the bar on top in the first pic and on the right in the second pic. It is wider at the tip but narrower on the slotted end than the bar that came on my 250. It has a "McCulloch Fortafied Tip" logo with the flying geese. (Can't get a good picture of the logo, sorry) The bar has 004091 for a part number. What series of saw did this bar orgnally come on?

Impossible to tell exactly which saw those bars originaly were installed on. Could have been on any number of saws that take the same mount, and also could have been sold seperately at the dealer too. Those bars in your pics all have both the 'notch' cut for one style of bar adjuster (the 'big head' screw type) as well as the holes drilled for the jack screw/pin type used on many other McCulloch saws.

Some of you may know that I bid on a 2-10 on ebay a week or so ago. Not my best moment, but you know how it is when you get caught up in bidding.
It arrived today and I took some pictures. I plan on getting it running come heck or high water. It did pop when I put fuel in the carb. Otherwise its a mess, any advice would be appreciated.

I've seen much worse. You'll make a runner out of it for sure, given your determination. Nice air filter BTW....:cheers:
 
I found the timing hole on the 1-70, I should have taken some pics but forgot. :cry:

The hole is under the saw and allows the timing pin (I cut off a 1/4" drill bit to make a pin) to slide through the case behind the flywheel into a hole in the back of the flywheel. This locks the engine at the proper position to set the points (just breaking) and in turn this sets the timing.

After I did this the saw started on the second pull and never died. It was less than 60° in the shop at the time. It revs nicely and started again on the first pull a few minutes later. Now to get it in some wood!

Thanks Brian13 for posting the info to get me looking in the right direction. :bowdown:
 
Homelite XL2 Retirement.

Triped over a Eager Beaver 600124D at a pawn shop today. Been looking for one of these cute little buggers. 2 cu in w/16" bar. Must have been fueled with some 16:1 as it smoked a lot. Dumped and rinsed the tank, filled with 40:1 and the smoke cleared. Needs a new air filter as all the old one will filter out are small rocks. $43.08 O.T.D. I know likely paid too much but I'm not getting any younger.

The 16" bar makes the little fellow awkward.

Question 1: Can I use the 12" b/c from the XL2 on the Mac?

Question 2: Can I stuff a cut down Lawnboy filter over the existing screen?

Don't really want to take him apart..................................yet.
 
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Triped over a Eager Beaver 600124D at a pawn shop today. Been looking for one of these cute little buggers. 2 cu in w/16" bar. Must have been fueled with some 16:1 as it smoked a lot. Dumped and rinsed the tank, filled with 40:1 and the smoke cleared. Needs a new air filter as all the old one will filter out are small rocks. $43.08 O.T.D. I know likely too much but I'm not getting any younger.

The 16" bar makes the little fellow awkward.

Question 1: Can I use the 12" b/c from the XL2 on the Mac?

Question 2: Can I stuff a cut down Lawnboy filter over the existing screen?

Don't really want to take him apart..................................yet.

Put a real filter on it, they aren't much. Pm me, might even have a 12" bar.
 
Triped over a Eager Beaver 600124D at a pawn shop today. Been looking for one of these cute little buggers. 2 cu in w/16" bar. Must have been fueled with some 16:1 as it smoked a lot. Dumped and rinsed the tank, filled with 40:1 and the smoke cleared. Needs a new air filter as all the old one will filter out are small rocks. $43.08 O.T.D. I know likely too much but I'm not getting any younger.

The 16" bar makes the little fellow awkward.

Question 1: Can I use the 12" b/c from the XL2 on the Mac?

Question 2: Can I stuff a cut down Lawnboy filter over the existing screen?

Don't really want to take him apart..................................yet.


IIRC, that's a different bar mount than the XL2/E-Z/Small Husky mount. You can still get 10-14" bars for those CHEAP from several sources. Should be able to get a bar and chain NEW for around $20 if you shop around. Don't overpay. Somebody will probably give you one (or a complete parts saw) if you post in the Swap Meet thread.

My 110s have 10" and 12" bars. These are decent running saws for what they are. Be careful.......they are very prone to kickback. Resist the urge to run it one handed. Also, do not leave ethanol gas (or any stale gas) in that sucker, because you do not want to have to put lines and a carb kit in it...:D

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Put a real filter on it, they aren't much. Pm me, might even have a 12" bar.

See I toldja. Didn't take long (looks like about 10 minutes from your post to his offer). Most guys here have at least one of these little stinkers laying around. They just 'appear' once folks hear you're "into chainsaws"......:D

He's right, just buy a new filter. You can get one cheap from our sponsors here, and also freebees used...
 
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