McCulloch Chain Saws

[RandyMac]

Check out what I found hiding in the back of my father's shop;

Looks solid, wonder if it'll start

more details to come!

Welcome to the club, get the hat from Aaron.

 

[Ikeholt]

I know there are better uses for one's time, but has anyone built a pop-up piston for an older Mac? If so, how well did it work? I tried the search link but didn't see any info.

Thanks, Tom

 

[8433jeff]

I ended up with 1/4 OD, 1/8 ID will take the Husky style filter and still fit on carb.

Never stopped at a pawn shop or a thrift store for saws...sounds dangerous...:chainsawguy:

Only to your wallet, and your back side if you let let your wife chew it.

 

[heimannm]

I know there are better uses for one's time, but has anyone built a pop-up piston for an older Mac? If so, how well did it work? I tried the search link but didn't see any info.

Thanks, Tom

Tom, I think you need to take a short trip down to see Frank (gink595), I bet the two of you could cook something up.

I would expect that any of the large frame 80cc saws should be plenty stout enough to handle some extra pressure, come to think of it any of the large frame saws are no doubt plenty beefy for something like that.

I bet JJ has some insight he could offer as well.

Mark

 

[67L36Driver]

Pawn shop 10-10A

(see if this works)
View attachment 160940

View attachment 160941

View attachment 160942

Pawn shop vrs. Ebay saws pro and con:
A pawn shop saw will run, you can examine it closely, haggle over price and you may even be able to bring it back in 24 hrs. Downside is they don't take trades and you spend more up front.

Ebay saw is ahead on price (usually). Downside is shipping brings the cost up to equal to a pawn shop saw. Pictures are great but you cannot hold it or hear it run. (this has improved somwhat as some sellers attach a U-tube video.

Above saw was purchased at pawn shop for $70. The bar & chain were junk. An equivalent Ebay item would have been 40-50 plus 20-25 shipping. So it was a push. Besides, I felt sorry for the old trooper.

 

[briantutt]

Fuel Filter Install

We know you just hate stopping there.

I survived the stop at the saw shop with only a fuel line purchase. So I just thought I would share how I get the fuel lines into tanks, don't know if it's the easiest but works pretty well.

First I cut a 45 on the tubing:

Then I surgically remove some of the tube from the back part of the 45 for 3/4 inch or so. This way you can overlap the tube on itself:

Then I stick that inch or so of tube into the hole on the tank and push as much as I can in there so I can the reach it with needle nose if necessary. This one went well and I could push the tubing in bit by bit. Then I pick the filter that best fits the I.D., noticed on the two Husky style filters they have different barbs (different purchase events) but good thing because one was a bit longer and larger barb so it locked on the 1/8 ID tube very nice:

Pull the tube out of the tank, cut the tube off straight, slide on the filter and adjust for length so it moves good in the tank:

Probably boring to most of you but some of the newbies like myself may like it. :biggrinbounce2:

 

[heimannm]

I had to replace the fuel line in a Homelite 410 recently, much as you describe except you can see the tubing when you poke it through the hole in the top of the tank. So, I went the other way and fed a wire through the hole into the tank till I could grab it and pull it out the filler hole. Poked a small hole in the tip of the new fuel line (longer angle though to make it easier to get it started through the hole, then lube it up and pull it all back through into the tank. Remember to attach the fuel filter before you pull it too far into the tank.

Mark

 

[briantutt]

What are the odds?

Put the PM650 all back together had the needles set at 1-1/4 turns out and the idle stop "eyeballed" to where it was pushing the throttle open a bit. About eight pulls, it fired, ninth it started and idled. Let it warm up for about a minute. Hit the throttle and it went straight up to wide open throttle with a bit of four stroke. I didn't even touch any of the needles form the carb rebuild event! Hit the throttle just to check if I was crazy...

Never had that happen...

 

[dieselsmoke]

S 250

Just curious, back in the day, how did the guys build up a "hot" Mac engine? Drop in a pop-up piston? or just order up a Kart motor? Add some port timing? Any pics out there of a '60's hot rod Mcculloch.

 

[Eccentric]

Welcome to the club, get the hat from Aaron.

Ha! When he posted the pics of his S250 I was just thinking how glad I was that I'm not the 'rookie' anymore!!!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Eccentric]

I love it when a plan comes together.

Put the PM650 all back together had the needles set at 1-1/4 turns out and the idle stop "eyeballed" to where it was pushing the throttle open a bit. About eight pulls, it fired, ninth it started and idled. Let it warm up for about a minute. Hit the throttle and it went straight up to wide open throttle with a bit of four stroke. I didn't even touch any of the needles form the carb rebuild event! Hit the throttle just to check if I was crazy...

Never had that happen...

Sometimes you get the bear, and sometimes the bear gets you. Glad to see you got the bear this time! Don't be too 'spooked' by it working out so well. Just think of how many times things haven't worked without a serious fight...

 

[briantutt]

Sometimes you get the bear, and sometimes the bear gets you. Glad to see you got the bear this time! Don't be too 'spooked' by it working out so well. Just think of how many times things haven't worked without a serious fight...

Every other time I have had to mess with needles for a half hour or take the carb apart 3 times looking for what I did wrong...It still feels weird...but fun!:yoyo:

 

[dieselsmoke]

Ha! When he posted the pics of his S250 I was just thinking how glad I was that I'm not the 'rookie' anymore!!!:hmm3grin2orange:

Creak, groan, I don't feel like a rookie!!!!

 

[Eccentric]

Creak, groan, I don't feel like a rookie!!!!

Me neither. But we're rookies in the Super 250 Club....:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[dieselsmoke]

Damn. doesn't years of service account for anything?

 

[Eccentric]

Damn. doesn't years of service account for anything?

Not when it comes to that damn goose hat! Hey...............are by chance involved with old IHC vehicles? There's a fellow on some of the forums I belong to that has that same handle...

 

[dieselsmoke]

Just my TD-6 dozer, I used to own a '48 pickup. And I don't post on any other forums, that i know of! Schizophrenia maybe.

 

[Aaron441]

1-40 oiler button

I rescued an old 1-40 from the junk and got it running. I got it, a 10-10 with a broken piston and a smashed 1-43 for $10. Why is the oiler button up on the front like that? I have seen 1-43's, 380's and other saws like that where the oil button is in back so you can use your right thumb to push it. This one you have to hold the side of the front handle or just let go of it completely to push the oiler. Was there a reason it is like that, or was it just a fluke idea?

I have put most of a tank of fuel through it. It is fun to run, it only has a 20" bar, and I think you could push on it until your feet come off the ground and not bog it down.

 

[Eccentric]

I rescued an old 1-40 from the junk and got it running. I got it, a 10-10 with a broken piston and a smashed 1-43 for $10. Why is the oiler button up on the front like that? I have seen 1-43's, 380's and other saws like that where the oil button is in back so you can use your right thumb to push it. This one you have to hold the side of the front handle or just let go of it completely to push the oiler. Was there a reason it is like that, or was it just a fluke idea?

I have put most of a tank of fuel through it. It is fun to run, it only has a 20" bar, and I think you could push on it until your feet come off the ground and not bog it down.

The D30 (which 'fathered' the D36 and 1-40 among other saws) had a unique 'automatic oiling system' called "Lubri-Mac" (or something similar). The user was instructed to run a thicker than normal gas/oil mix (10/1!) and the system scavenged crankcase oil residue and moved it to the bar for oiling. There was no seperate oiler or oil tank for the bar.

It didn't work so hot for a number of reasons. There were aftermarket and later factory conversion setups that put a divider in the gas tank, making the front section an oil tank with the manual oiler pump incorporated into it. That's why your saw has the oiler in the funny spot. There were actualy a few variations on oiler placement, but they're all up front.

Some later saws (such as a 200 parts saw I've got on the shelf) have the boss for one of these manual oilers cast into it, even though the oil tank on that saw does have a manual oiler pump incorporated into it. McCulloch just used those castings on some later saws like my 200 (without machining the boss for the front mounted manual pump).

 

[acguy]

New Guy - To the site anyway!

I have a couple of ole MAC 610s. Can't seem to get rid of em.