McCulloch Chain Saws

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Great info Mark. I'll be doing that with a few saws soon. Didja receive the 77 yet? Should be there any day now...:cheers:

Don't know, won't be back in the country until next week and my wife never seems to be home when I have service and can call.

Usually she e-mails a photo of boxes that arrive while I am gone just to torment me...

Mark
 
Great pic Mark. I have a balancer puller just like that one. I just need to get some long bolts and some washers.

So what you're doing in that pic is pulling that left side of the case off the block?

Gary
Yes that is how the case comes off, when you remove all the bolts you will see two holes in the case that have threads in them. Should be the same size and threads as the flywheel. On some there is a bolt that goes through the airbox to the case. Easy to miss, but will cause problems if you forget and try to pull the case off.

The Hat... :laugh: I forgot about that...

Yep... first one. Plus this will be the first McCulloch that I completely disassemble. I already have a line on a piston and rings. Plus some other parts. :)

Gary

Good luck, the Super 250 is pretty easy to take apart and put back together. Got the IPL?
 
Cant agree more. My father talked about this saw most of my life, always telling me how great it was. Now that its back to life, its been kind of like a gateway saw. Never had any interest in these old saws, until I started working on this one. Now I have more Mac's than anything else. Yours looks to be in pretty good shape! Must have been stored in a building with a roof :D.
Yeah, storred in the barn, That is the best looking side of it. My addiction started with a $22 10-10.
Got it runnin pretty good, then started looking at the 80cc series....
 
Yeah, storred in the barn, That is the best looking side of it. My addiction started with a $22 10-10.
Got it runnin pretty good, then started looking at the 80cc series....

I'll bet you didn't even notice when the handle was pulled down on the toaster, too late now, you are toast.
The 80cc models, a huge array of different types, start building a new shed.
 
Ha I actuallly did build a new storage shelf, three sheets of ply. Bout 8' x 12' just under the attic of my shop.
That first 10-10 was over 2 years ago. I kinda wish i'd got bitten sooner. There are'nt near as many high tank models on ebay and CL, compared to just a few years ago.
 
Gary-

That might just be caramelized oil on the piston, rather than scoring. Did you spray it down with brake cleaner to see if the piston really is scratched up?

I haven't got that far yet JJ... I was gonna pull the piston anyways to check. But I'll squirt some brake cleaner down there to check before I pull it... just so see if it "cleans up". :)

Got the IPL?

Brian... I do not... :)

Gary
 
Ha I actuallly did build a new storage shelf, three sheets of ply. Bout 8' x 12' just under the attic of my shop.
That first 10-10 was over 2 years ago. I kinda wish i'd got bitten sooner. There are'nt near as many high tank models on ebay and CL, compared to just a few years ago.

I think there are only three 80cc geardrives, so you kinda lucked out. On the other hand, direct drive models, must be over a dozen.
 
80cc, gear dr. with 1/2 chain. Bolt on head. Very low run time. The kid I bought it from had no idea what he was selling. I had to pop in a sp plug and prime it to get to pop. the tank was very nasty inside, so just tease of fresh fuel to see if it would run. Any hoo, the thing was covered in bout a half inch of crap, so I lo-balled an offer, and took the thing home.
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Model one- sixty
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My one and only "good" CL score.
 
10-10 Fast Idle speed.

My 10-10A has a screw to adjust the fast idle speed. My PM 10-10S don't appear to have one.

Am I missing something? I don't like to start a cold engine and have it run nearly WOT. My dad would have a conipshen fit if he were alive.
 
My 10-10A has a screw to adjust the fast idle speed. My PM 10-10S don't appear to have one.

Am I missing something? I don't like to start a cold engine and have it run nearly WOT. My dad would have a conipshen fit if he were alive.

On the SDC's in those 10-10's, the idle speed screw threads into the carb body (instead of bearing against an external arm on the throttle shaft). It looks like a mixture needle. Since some of the SDC's had only an adjustable LS mixture screw and a fixed HS jet, I'll be you're cofusing the idle speed screw for one of the mixture needles. Shoot a pic of the left side of the carb on that saw...
 
Yup, found the low speed idle screw on the carb on both. No brainer there.

But, the 10-10A has a screw on the trigger to adjust the fast idle speed for starting/warm up. The PM 10-10S with its' safety lever on the trigger don't appear to have one unless it's hiding up under the handle somewhere.

Thanks fellas.
Carl.
 
Yeah, storred in the barn, That is the best looking side of it. My addiction started with a $22 10-10.
Got it runnin pretty good, then started looking at the 80cc series....

Mine was in a barn/shop building that the roof colapsed years before I dug the saw out. Needed a machete and some good steal shank boots to get the saw. Had to climb around broken trusses and cut away tree branches to get to it. Yours looks like its ready to go, glad to see its in good condition. Family saws have a lot of stories that come with them:cheers:.
80cc, gear dr. with 1/2 chain. Bolt on head. Very low run time. The kid I bought it from had no idea what he was selling. I had to pop in a sp plug and prime it to get to pop. the tank was very nasty inside, so just tease of fresh fuel to see if it would run. Any hoo, the thing was covered in bout a half inch of crap, so I lo-balled an offer, and took the thing home.
My one and only "good" CL score.

Another good looker. What model? Looks real clean. A gear drive is the only thing that I really want that I havnt got yet.:D
 
The 1-60 Series saws (1-60, 1-61, 1-62, 1-63) were all 80cc gear drives, base on the 1-40/50 engine with the large gearcase like the one used on the 55's, 1-80's, and 800's.

The Super 55 is an 80 cc as well, a simple 55 is 72 cc, and a Super 55A is 87 cc. The 55 Series saws are the 44 (or 44A or Super 44A) engine with the large gearcase.

The 640 was an 80cc sort of hybrid, also equipped with the large gearcase.

The 650 and 660 are 87 cc and had a completely different little gearcase that tucks in almost inconspicuously behind the clutch cover. I have heard that the 660 shared the same engine block as the Super 250 but the IPL's that I have anyway have different part numbers, 62731 for the 650/660 and 83830 for the Super 250.

The 1-60 Series saws have a large, squarish fuel tank on top
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The Super 55 is the same engine as the Super 44
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The 640 was a sort of "in between" design, like the 440 engine with the large gearcase
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The 650 and 660 saws have the small gearcase the fits behind the clutch cover
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I have the full line up of the 1-60 Series saws now, just have to get my 1-61 cleaned up and put together.

I am still looking for a Super 55A, I have a good example of the Super 55 and should have enough parts on hand to complete one 55.

I have this 640; I had to repaint the gearcase so I made it black rather than try to match the existing yellow. I also have a 640 with the McCulloch bow bar that is on the shelf just waiting for attention as well.

The 650 is just for show, it will run but was in very bad shape when it came to me and I didn't really need to make it run well. One of the 660's will run and cut very well, the other needs some work as the airbox is quite loose and it won't run steady at all.

Mark
 
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McCulloch saws

Thanks for the primer. I have 5 now and only one bar and chain. The saw I bought as a 1-80 apparently is not that, as it has no gear case. Its like the 1-70 & 72 that I recently bought, except its in nice condition, been "recently" used.
So I have two questins;
Can the crank shaft from an 87cc saw be installed in a 80cc saw?
And I need another used bar and chain. The chain I have is 1/2 inch it looks like.
Thanks
 
Gear Drives

Brian, I have two, gear drives: The ooold one from my grandpappy, is a M-47, 77cc of rotary valve grunt, work-horse. She still fires up very reliably. Built in the early 50's. I only run it once in a while, for show.
The "newest" ( to me) is a 1-60, 80cc, bolt on head, 24" bar and 1/2" chain. That one can really make some chips. I run it often, the engine is so tight and new, I know I'll never wear it out in my lifetime.:cheers:
 
Yup, found the low speed idle screw on the carb on both. No brainer there.

But, the 10-10A has a screw on the trigger to adjust the fast idle speed for starting/warm up. The PM 10-10S with its' safety lever on the trigger don't appear to have one unless it's hiding up under the handle somewhere.

Thanks fellas.
Carl.

I don't have any experience with the 'S' model PM 10-10. with my non-'S' ProMac 10-10, you move the 'grip safety' lever on top of the rear handle to the rear as far as it will go (after pressing that lever down and pulling the throttle trigger), then release the trigger to engage the 'high idle' setting. Mine works fine, so I haven't needed to adjust it. I just checked the IPL, and there supposedly is a tiny screw that threads into the safety lever from the bottom. I took a quick peek at my saw, and I can't see any way to get at that screw for adjustment. I'll check my service manual...
 
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67L36 - There should be a small set screw like on the throttle trigger that can be used to adjust the fast idle.

willy - I don't think you can swap the crankshaft, piston would hit the top of the cylinder, port timing off, etc..

Mark

And a P.S. as well, I got home from Argentina today and had to carry a large box back from the post office this afternoon. I will get some pictures of the newly arrived McCulloch 77 up before the week is over. Mark
 
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