McCulloch Chain Saws

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Was chattin' with Jacob J the other day about flywheel pullers and he suggested a steering wheel puller with long 1/4-20 bolts and some washers. So I borrowed my buddy's steering wheel puller and... it worked like a charm...

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Then Mark showed the pic using a harmonic damper puller to take off the side of the case. I have one of those pullers, but thought I'd try out the steering wheel puller again. Worked like a charm again...

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Looks good so far...

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:clap:

Gary

Nice one Gary,

That puller looks perfect for the job. As you said, the internals on that saw look good thus far - hopefully further disassembly will reveal nothing untoward.

Great pics of the tooling.

Regards,

Chris.
 
I walked over to the post office yesterday and struggled home with the box, good thing is I only live a couple of blocks away.

Actually the bar showed up several days ago, my wife reported on that while I was away.

I still have to dig through the box and find the chain, the sprocket looks to be 9/16" pitch. Did you find the other rubber grip amongst the paper with the 550?

Mark

The chain and bumper spike are wrapped/taped in a rolled over sheet of cardboard. It was resting alongside the bottom of the powerhead (outside of the black plastic bags). It's a 5/8" chain (both by my measurements, and by the "16C" on the drivers which matches Oregon 16C 5/8" chipper on the chain page of Acres' site). The chain looked to fit the sprocket fine when it was together.

I found the rubber grip. It was wrapped up in one of the pieces of wadded newspaper. Enlisted my girls to help me sort through it. Took a couple of tries before I noticed one paper wad that was just a tad heavier than the others.:laugh:

Didja look at the Champion TJ8J wrapped and taped to the 77 handlebar? It's a bit carboned up, but the saw it was in ran fine, and it looked to me like it'd clean up well.

Edit:

I put a piece of clear packing tape over the vent hole on the gas cap. I trimmed the excess off of it so it wouldn't pull up paint from the tank top. Because of that, it is kinda hard to see the tape at a glance. I'd hate to see you go to the trouble of squaring the carb system away, only to have the cap not vent! I know you'd figure it out anyways..........but that's needless frustration...:D
 
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It's not over yet briantutt

I know but I will lose it for sure...not knowing what the other parts are worth I didn't want to go very high. I have a perfectly nice black cover but when I saw this I put in a low bid just in case it was one of those "not noticed" auctions.
 
I know but I will lose it for sure...not knowing what the other parts are worth I didn't want to go very high. I have a perfectly nice black cover but when I saw this I put in a low bid just in case it was one of those "not noticed" auctions.

So you're one of those early bidders that drives the price up... :laugh:

just funnin' ya... So did ya win it?

Gary
 
So you're one of those early bidders that drives the price up... :laugh:

just funnin' ya... So did ya win it?

Gary

I hear ya. I just put my max in on this one and left it alone. Usually if it's something I want then I just watch and snipe at the end because I agree if you bid early others tend to slowly drive up the price in a moment of weakness.

No I didn't win...
 
So... is this normal for the big end of the rod to not have flat machined surfaces to mate the cap to? Looks odd to me. This is the first McCulloch I've torn down this far.

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The piston is scored... But I didn't see any damage to the cylinder. Can't even catch a fingernail on the cylinder wall. Also... now I need to get the wrist pin out... I don't see any clips... :dizzy:

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Here is the block of the Super 250... needfs a good cleaning now.

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So... anybody wanna "blast" these parts for me? :)

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Gary
 
"So... is this normal for the big end of the rod to not have flat machined surfaces to mate the cap to? Looks odd to me. This is the first McCulloch I've torn down this far."

Those are "fracture rods", they are machined in one piece, and then broken into two pieces at a score mark. If you put them back together the breaks fit perfectly together, and it is an easier thing to machine than the old way of making caps, and provides good alignment.

A lot of car manufacturers are using these, and I have heard JD is starting to use these on tractors also.
 
Bang bang bang- There Gary, I just blasted your parts. But with only 3 shots, I probably only got one and a half :)

But seriously, a little cleanin, and that saw will look good!
 
"So... is this normal for the big end of the rod to not have flat machined surfaces to mate the cap to? Looks odd to me. This is the first McCulloch I've torn down this far."

Those are "fracture rods", they are machined in one piece, and then broken into two pieces at a score mark. If you put them back together the breaks fit perfectly together, and it is an easier thing to machine than the old way of making caps, and provides good alignment.

A lot of car manufacturers are using these, and I have heard JD is starting to use these on tractors also.

I thought it looked like they were meant to be fractured that way. They do go back together perfectly... :)

Bang bang bang- There Gary, I just blasted your parts. But with only 3 shots, I probably only got one and a half :)

But seriously, a little cleanin, and that saw will look good!

I would like to media blast these... since the paint is in pretty ruff shape. Just for a smoother surface to paint on...

Gary
 
I thought it looked like they were meant to be fractured that way. They do go back together perfectly... :)



I would like to media blast these... since the paint is in pretty ruff shape. Just for a smoother surface to paint on...

Gary

Freaky thing but yeah that is correct just make sure its marked. Wait till you see a sheared rod cap.
 
This is what I use to push the wrist pin out. It is a press fit, so with this block of wood as a jig you can use a press or very carefully a vice. Just line up the blind bearing with the hole, put a socket on the pin and press away.
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If you look on the left side of the big end you will see two indicator bumps. When those are lined up you know you have the rod cap on right.
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