thanks Yukon Stihl. the nose end of the chain is pretty bad, but I'll put it in some Evaporust as well as the bar and muffler for a couple of days and see what happens. haven't tried electrolysis before, does it work better than Evaporust?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Electrolysis vs rust removers.
Mark
Mark
I forgot about this PF video. I watch all his stuff. I do like Evaporust but it's gotten pretty expensive. thanks.
there is a formula for homemade evaporust. I bought the chemicals last week but haven't tried it yet. here's where I learned about it.
I'm sure you know that whatever method used, you are way ahead if you wire wheel the heavy rust off before putting it in the solution or electrolysis. 2 hp, you can't bog this wire wheel down.
gonna mix some up this morning and throw the PM1000 parts in it.It works pretty good,
I look at those wire wheels and see a lot of bloody knuckles...
Mark
Mark
Agreed. Wire wheels of any sort make me a bit nervous.
This is the reason I started my 890 project. Pulled the SP125 motor out of the gear drive and restored that to original. I have nearly a complete 125 missing a few odd parts and also 85% percent of my 101 saw.
I remember once we had a young lad working for us n trying out engineering a bit. Any way he was wire wheeling some rust on a couple beams. I warned him a lot and a big lesson and yeah yeah I'll be fine he said. OK ok
2 min later the 5 inch grinder was tangled up in his overalls and humming n smoking as it was stalled and all wrapped up. I run over kick the plug out and he's a whimpering snivelling mess
Poor kid but I tried to teach him
He never lasted
The other scary wire wheel situation is on a 9 inch grinder
2 min later the 5 inch grinder was tangled up in his overalls and humming n smoking as it was stalled and all wrapped up. I run over kick the plug out and he's a whimpering snivelling mess
Poor kid but I tried to teach him
He never lasted
The other scary wire wheel situation is on a 9 inch grinder
nah. it's only 1725 RPM and I wear a pair of cut resistant gloves and a full-face shield. also, I've been using only Weiler US made wire wheels for about 20 years. they don't throw off those nasty wire bits that stick in your clothes like the import ones do.
I use a wire wheel on an angle grinder.
I also soak parts in white vinegar which sometimes gives good results.
I also soak parts in white vinegar which sometimes gives good results.
vinegar does work but it leaves white stuff on the part that has tp be cleaned off. and it reeks 
and technically, since it's an acid the part should be neutralized before painting.
and technically, since it's an acid the part should be neutralized before painting.
Once you have an e tank there is no other way. I bought a chain for a Mercury Diston that was so rusty it was all I could do to get it bent enough to get it in the tank. Now it’s coiled up and moves like new
didn't get to it yesterday, but mixed up a batch of the home brew evaporust this afternoon. formula I used:
2 gal water (cold. no HWH in my shop).
105 grams of the Tetrasodium EDTA powder.
40 grams powdered citric acid to get to a neutral PH of 7.
5 ml dawn dish soap as a surfactant.
the EDTA made the water super alkaline. in the pic I have the test strip in the middle but it really matches pretty much the max on the scale. the 40 grams of citric acid brought it right back to where it needs to be.
2 gal water (cold. no HWH in my shop).
105 grams of the Tetrasodium EDTA powder.
40 grams powdered citric acid to get to a neutral PH of 7.
5 ml dawn dish soap as a surfactant.
the EDTA made the water super alkaline. in the pic I have the test strip in the middle but it really matches pretty much the max on the scale. the 40 grams of citric acid brought it right back to where it needs to be.
I put the rusty muffler and muffler hardware plus some old MT1 drill bits in the solution at 1:30pm this afternoon.
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