McCulloch Chain Saws

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So where does the 640 stand with the 650 and 660? Is it lower HP? I just picked this one up a few days ago. This thing is funny for me to start. I'm left handed and the starter is on the right side of the saw.

I am left handed as well. After I got used to it, I think I like the right hand start better than the left. For me its real easy to drop start a right hand start.
 
Mac 10-10s question

I picked up a 10-10s at an auction today and after cleaning it up I can see it needs a new gas line.Is the line one piece or is there a connector coming through the gas tank wall? Also what works for cleaning old gas gunk out of the tank? Thanks, Dan :chainsawguy:
 
I picked up a 10-10s at an auction today and after cleaning it up I can see it needs a new gas line.Is the line one piece or is there a connector coming through the gas tank wall? Also what works for cleaning old gas gunk out of the tank? Thanks, Dan :chainsawguy:

1 piece. Available many places from many suppliers, well, at least three.

New gas, paint thinner, carb cleaner, purple power? back about a dozen pages or so. Good luck.
 
Dan - the tank has only one screw holding the the top on, so open it up to get good access. I had very good success with purple power when nothing else seemed to work.

Be sure to get the inner spring for the fuel line, or take the one out of your existing fuel line to prevent it from kinking where the fuel line twists from the tank to the carburetor.

Mark
 
When I installed an aftermarket fuel line in my sP-81, the line was a little loose in the tank pass-thru hole. Weeped gas at first. After a few hours of exposure to fuel (ethanol free), it swelled a bit and sealed right up. No more leak.
 
Help!!!!

Hey guys..

Had a mini-GTG on Labor day...

Jacob (chainsawmanXX) was over for a bit on his way through for a tour of New England ;) Decided it was about time to fix the busted PM700...

well, due to the CLUNKING noise when pulled over, I had a strong feeling it sheared the flywheel key...

CONFIRMED

Jacob had actually sent me a key prior to departing his home to work on the road...

so we worked on installing the key, and found out some issues with the flywheel itself... :cry:

I'll post pics in the AM...

The center portion of the flywheel is a HEX shaped steel insert...and it's LOOSE (to the point where it's probably moving +- 10 degrees :dizzy:

comparing it to a 10-10 flywheel, it has MANY more fins... (would using a 10-10 wheel change anything, or affect things negatively??)


the chain was seeming to turn a bit as well..... so in the process of GETTING to the root of the issue, and as we were taking the brake cover off, the baffle on the exhaust fell off the muffler, and then we noticed that the muffler body where it attaches to the cyl was LOOSE....

missing some hardware...

so, I'm needing the two external bolts, and one muffler to cyl bolt too....



ALSO, the other thing Jacob BROKE :jester: was the clutch spider... it was BUSTED right where the clutch shoes sit on the spider....



compression is GREAT and it seems ::confused: that someone replaced the oil tank/motor, or??? as the tank is a battleship gray color...:confused:

SO, I would like to see if I could request the assistance of other fellow mac-head as'ers to help me get this saw going again... in thoughts, knowledge, and the wear-with-all to allow me to beg for some parts a bit :bowdown:



Thanks guys!!

I have PLENTY of stuff to trade as well....;)
 
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I would like to know the story behind the gray oil tank as well, I've seen those quite often, I thought the same thing that they were replaced.
 
IT wasnt me.
But I got your Timberbear working right :cheers: LOL
Jay another thing i didnt htink about is, possssiiiblyyy! The pm700's oil tank is grey becuase they installed a kart motor? Just a crazy idea :rock:
 
IT wasnt me.
But I got your Timberbear working right :cheers: LOL
Jay another thing i didnt htink about is, possssiiiblyyy! The pm700's oil tank is grey becuase they installed a kart motor? Just a crazy idea :rock:

Sorry Jacob. McCulloch didn't make Kart engines in that style. I'ts most likely grey because it was a replacement.
 
Mcculloch 250 help

Hey guys, im new to posting here but have used this site for reference many times. I need to ask a question. My ebay special 250 is finnaly a runner. But alas no oil to the bar:msp_sad: Had this trouble on a 250 of my dads few years ago and after not being able to find a replacement for the little thimble on the manual oil plunger i made one out of a delta faucet spray diverter valve. works but is the long way around as it takes a lot of trial and error to figure out how to make it work. To save me that headache again does anyone know where i can find an original or remake of the mcculloch part? would be very appreciative. thank you and I love this site:rock:
 
10-10 Auto Oil Pump

Does anyone know if you can "disassemble" the oil pump on a 10-10 Auto. I circled in red an IPL view that shows it apart but it looks snapped together. I don't really need it apart since it fed oil out the bar oiler hole when I pushed the button but the saw was so dirty when I took it apart I am not sure if crap got in it. Do you think it would be okay to flush it with premic or something???
 
Does anyone know if you can "disassemble" the oil pump on a 10-10 Auto. I circled in red an IPL view that shows it apart but it looks snapped together. I don't really need it apart since it fed oil out the bar oiler hole when I pushed the button but the saw was so dirty when I took it apart I am not sure if crap got in it. Do you think it would be okay to flush it with premic or something???

The cap will just pop off and snap back on again.
 
So where does the 640 stand with the 650 and 660? Is it lower HP? I just picked this one up a few days ago. This thing is funny for me to start. I'm left handed and the starter is on the right side of the saw.

The 640 is a whole 'nother critter, top tank, front mounted gearbox, it is in the 1-80/890 family. 80cc motor.

I do believe it is the 440's gearbox brother, same as 795 to 895, etc.
 
D44 is RH start like the later Super 44 and Super 44A. They're all direct drive. The gear drive versions were the 55 and Super 55. D44 was 77cc. S44 was 80cc. S44A was 87cc. Folks have seen 55's converted to DD and 44's converted to gear drive (parts swap right over), so that has caused confusion. A fellow can convert these saws to LH start with a bit of parts swapping too. I just helped a member here convert his S44A engine to LH start for use on a Kart. Sent him a 1-76 flywheel cover, a 250 starter, and a 250 flywheel. He had to have the backside of the 250 flywheel machined to clear the crankcase cover on the S44A engine. A vintage kart expert helped him get the flywheel squared away (as he'd done the same swap before).



I think you're right Steve. The Super 44 I looked at recently had the crossbar handlebar mount setup as well. There should be block numbers on the underside of the saw that will help us out here.

D44 is only 72cc and has the center-chamber plug a la kart, LOL. S44 has saw head 80cc. S44A has saw head and the model-specific box muff, though it's easily swapped, 87cc.

And to add to that the S44A is not a kart engine. It is similar to the MC10, but the porting is different.

Yep, but when the 791 and the SR-101 are done, I'm gonna see what happens when a S44A/1-70/1/2 and a MC-10 head meet a 48890b carb...
 
Hey guys, im new to posting here but have used this site for reference many times. I need to ask a question. My ebay special 250 is finnaly a runner. But alas no oil to the bar:msp_sad: Had this trouble on a 250 of my dads few years ago and after not being able to find a replacement for the little thimble on the manual oil plunger i made one out of a delta faucet spray diverter valve. works but is the long way around as it takes a lot of trial and error to figure out how to make it work. To save me that headache again does anyone know where i can find an original or remake of the mcculloch part? would be very appreciative. thank you and I love this site:rock:

Tom - Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I can send an IPL for the 250. Once you identify the parts you need there are several different sources available, Bob Johnson, Fayetteville Equipment, Discount Marine, Wallenberg, probably lots of others as well. Fact is, customchainsawparts on e-bay can probably set you up with good used parts.

SawGarage - The clutch from any 10 Series LH start or 600 Series saw will work so you have lots of options there, not sure about the flywheel, perhaps Stinkbait would be more familiar. I have several of the different saws but haven't had to do a lot of work on the different ones at the same time so I'm not sure what will or will not swap.

Mark
 
Latest update on the 10G, I went back to finish the red cedar on Monday and in the process of a twisted wind blown mess managed to pinch the tip of the bar and break the rails. Back home again I found a decent 18" hardnose bar and cut the chain down to fit. I will still look for another 20-24" bar for this one but it will need to be a "slim" bar to look right, the mounts are normal for the large frame saws with the 3/8" studs. Still shorted the plug once with something breaking loose in there but I could not I.D. if it was carbon, aluminum, or something else.

I got another call tonight for another tree blown down in the storm Friday night, this time a small ash tree maybe 18-20" at the trunk. I will take some photo's before I start cutting, you have never seen roots or the lack of roots like this thing. Pulled out of the ground like an old dead tooth. It will give me a chance to put a little more run time on the 10G saw however.

I think I will make this entire tree a 10 Series McCulloch project, 10G, 10-10s, maybe the CP55 for some of the smaller stuff as well. I have already located a volunteer for the wood and clean up is on the home owner so all I have to do is cut...

Mark
 
Latest update on the 10G, I went back to finish the red cedar on Monday and in the process of a twisted wind blown mess managed to pinch the tip of the bar and break the rails. Back home again I found a decent 18" hardnose bar and cut the chain down to fit. I will still look for another 20-24" bar for this one but it will need to be a "slim" bar to look right, the mounts are normal for the large frame saws with the 3/8" studs. Still shorted the plug once with something breaking loose in there but I could not I.D. if it was carbon, aluminum, or something else.

I got another call tonight for another tree blown down in the storm Friday night, this time a small ash tree maybe 18-20" at the trunk. I will take some photo's before I start cutting, you have never seen roots or the lack of roots like this thing. Pulled out of the ground like an old dead tooth. It will give me a chance to put a little more run time on the 10G saw however.

I think I will make this entire tree a 10 Series McCulloch project, 10G, 10-10s, maybe the CP55 for some of the smaller stuff as well. I have already located a volunteer for the wood and clean up is on the home owner so all I have to do is cut...

Mark

Do you need a 20" bar now? I have I think a 20" that was on the CP55 that I gave you. It is a hard nose. I will need to measure it for sure. Not sure what slim line would mean though on it.
 

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